For motor mount I am using a piece of 1/8" G10 fiberglass. I attached it to hull using Devcon 2 ton epoxy. Tomorrow I will apply more epoxy to mount it more secure. 3/8" holes were drilled for routing wires and tubing.
Raptor Rigger Build
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For extra support around booms I epoxied G10 fiberglass washers to the outside of hull. I cut these washer shaped pieces of G10 using 1" hole saw. Potruding brass tubing will be ground down flush. Hull is now ready for filler and paint.Attached FilesLast edited by detox; 02-08-2010, 03:50 PM.Comment
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I am trying to save weight and build this rigger as light as possible (only one coat of Krylon paint). I wonder if a lighter weight 3600mah lipo will have enough capacity? I will post more pictures very soon.Last edited by detox; 03-11-2010, 08:20 PM.Comment
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i have been running 1 3600 mah pack in my jae rigger with ul-1 motor and esc with no problems. this is running right above 50 mph in 20+ mph winds and fairly calm water. i get about 3 minutes and use just under 3000mah with a modified h-7 or m545. this is a light load and amp draw, tempatures are under 110 degrees (dont worry, bigger prop is ready for testing). to tell you the truth my rigger doesnt seem to care that i use lighter packs. i can not tell the difference between the 3600 and 5000 mah packs, however the battery tempature is higher with the 3600's (about 115 degrees vs 105). according to the manufacture the difference in weight is 5 ounces (142 grams).see my fleet: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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i am just a pond basher, i run on a much smaller course so i dont know the answer to that. you will just have to test and see.see my fleet: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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I copied Brian's servo holder. I cut the Maple wood pieces using table saw. Here I am test fitting before glueing wood to hull. Aquacraft rubber boot (AQUB9503) will be glued onto 11/32" brass tube using clear silicone.
Servo being used is a Hi Tech Mighty Mini HS-225MGAttached FilesLast edited by detox; 03-11-2010, 05:14 PM.Comment
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Looks like you are getting CLOSE!!Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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If the standard OSE cooling jackets are too heavy for you, then consider something like this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-mjacket
I run this on my BJ motors, and they are SUPER light... and very effective.
Don't sacrifice longevity and performance for a few grams of weight. You do NOT have a shortage of power with these setups...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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i agree with darin, if you are looking to save a couple grams do things like ditch the servo mount in favor of double side servo tape, loose the connectors on the pushrods in favor of a z bend, see the brass tube on the pushrod seal, out. those bolts are too tong on the hardware as well. all that will give you the weight savings of the difference in a coil and the black cooling jacket....
i think you are being a little too critical about the weight. there is no need to go drilling holes in the rudder bracket to save a gram.
just my $0.02 you have a beautiful build going, dont sacrafice what is important for grams. i am not saying build it heaver, just watch out what you save weight onsee my fleet: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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Darin, I have that exact same jacket. I may use it .
There are lots of ways to make it lighter, aluminum bolts and locknuts, carbon fiber turnfin bracket, wire drive, etc... Weight can be added to critical areas using stick on lead weight if needed.
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