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Well I couldn't resist. I had a spare SuperVee motor and ESC just sitting collecting dust. I have always been fascinated buy tunnel hull boats so I got a Top Speed 2. At $90.00 it is $20.00 cheaper than the bare SuperVee hull and comes with all the hardware and a real nice stand. I also bought a complete carbon fiber lower with electric motor mounting kit and drive adaptor. It kinda hurt to cut up my new boat to mount the new radio-battery box I built after arranging the components to keep the balance point at 9 1/2in from the stern. The motor cover is from an Aquacraft EP1 and I fabricated lower cover to make it more to scale and route the cooling pipes. The motor and the ESC are water-cooled. It took about 20 hours to complete the project and I'm very pleased with results. I live in a summer vacation area where electric power makes the neighbors smile. I don't have a GPS but my new Brushless Top Speed 2 is faster than our SuperVees and is rock solid at top speed where the SuperVees are on the edge.
Hull cut out for radio-battery box.
Lower half battery box installed.
Upper half battery box installed
The speed control is mounted below the servo and receiver. Don't worry, I didn't use the stock radio, just sizing up the receiver location with the Aquacraft stuff. I made the box in two parts so it would be easier to get at the ESC cooling lines and wiring. I also cut down the transom about 1/2in to better route the wires and lines. Everything has to be positioned so the boats balance point is 9 1/2in from the stern.
I assembled the SuperVee motor to Fullers Carbon fiber Lower using the supplied adaptor plate and a 5mm Motor to Outboard Flex Shaft Coupler I also purchased from Fullers.
I also fabricated and installed a lower motor cover along with the Aquacraft's EP1 upper cover to help seal out unwanted water. I mounted the whole assembly to the transom with Dubro's 3.5cc motor mount.
I ran a cooling line from the cavitation plate up through the lower motor cover, out the cover front to the ESC, then back to the lower cover to the motor cooling coil and finally out the rear corner of the lower motor cover.
I also fabricated a band clamp to seal the joint between the upper and lower motor covers and also provide an attachment point for the steering links.
Hull cut out for radio-battery box.
Lower half battery box installed.
Upper half battery box installed
The speed control is mounted below the servo and receiver. Don't worry, I didn't use the stock radio, just sizing up the receiver location with the Aquacraft stuff. I made the box in two parts so it would be easier to get at the ESC cooling lines and wiring. I also cut down the transom about 1/2in to better route the wires and lines. Everything has to be positioned so the boats balance point is 9 1/2in from the stern.
I assembled the SuperVee motor to Fullers Carbon fiber Lower using the supplied adaptor plate and a 5mm Motor to Outboard Flex Shaft Coupler I also purchased from Fullers.
I also fabricated and installed a lower motor cover along with the Aquacraft's EP1 upper cover to help seal out unwanted water. I mounted the whole assembly to the transom with Dubro's 3.5cc motor mount.
I ran a cooling line from the cavitation plate up through the lower motor cover, out the cover front to the ESC, then back to the lower cover to the motor cooling coil and finally out the rear corner of the lower motor cover.
I also fabricated a band clamp to seal the joint between the upper and lower motor covers and also provide an attachment point for the steering links.
The nitro outboard looks like a 1930 Johnson racing motor.
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