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All said, there are several design challenges involved here. As scissor linkages go up, their pivot points can't be fixed. The horizontal distance shortens.
Note the idler link on the bottom and the ball bearing engaged in the C-channel on top. I don't think two idler links would work. The deck would flop around, right?
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 08-31-2022, 05:03 PM.Comment
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The aluminum arm extending towards the back goes down as the deck raises, and that lowers the bumper. But it didn't have enough travel.
So I came up with the extra link that connects to the bumper and gained more travel because of the longer moment arm where it is contacting that back arm as it goes down.
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 08-30-2022, 10:43 PM.Comment
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In all four corners of the deck that raises I made these aluminum parts that engage with each other and align/ lock the deck precisely in location when it comes down. By design they engage on tapered angles in both directions at the same time...
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I'm using a pair of 444 in/oz. Savox servos to raise the deck. That requires a stand alone BEC to truly get that much torque. A Castle Creations 15 amp BEC does the job.
More importantly was designing the servo linkages and bellcranks so the load comes off the servos in the raised position.
Note in the raised position the servo arms are 180 degrees from the linkage (pointing straight back) and the bellcrank arms are almost pointing straight up.
And the bellcrank design had to get enough travel...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 08-31-2022, 05:06 PM.Comment
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Anyway, that's what I meant when I said it was a stupid amount of design and fabricating to make this idea work.
When I got to this point I was finally ready to build the transom and mount the decks...
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And I haven't mentioned building the tubes yet...
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I used self tapping screws into the PVC pipe during the design/ build phase. These screws were smaller than the blind end/ waterproof rivets I used for final assembly.
Then I took everything apart to paint the tubes. Used the Preval spray system and Klass Kote aluminum color epoxy paint.
And finally assembled it all back together again using blind rivets.
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 09-09-2022, 07:44 AM.Comment
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The decks are made from 5mm Revolution plywood. It's a nice tight, straight grain ply used for flooring underlayment.
I drilled lightening holes in the front deck and sealed the plywood completely with polyurethane.
For the flooring, I found the material at Walmart in the sewing section, $3.99 a yard. Layed it down with contact cement.
Then built the side walls over that using aluminum fascia...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 08-30-2022, 11:37 PM.Comment
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It was about at this point in the build I decided to not throw it all in the dumpster because it had become too heavy for my little outboard.
I purchased and tested the 1/5 scale outboard and was blown away with how it performed!
So now it was game on, immerse yourself in the scale details.
I built the bimini top first...
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Last edited by sammyha; 08-31-2022, 12:54 AM.Comment
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Your build is really nice. Actually over the top. I bet the amount of hours you have invested in it is quite high. Very realistic, can't complement your work enough.Comment
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Here's a bit more on the bimini top.
Like for the flooring, I bought the material at Walmart, in the sewing section. In all I spent $35, a yard of material each for the floor, the bimini top and the two colors on the seats.
There's no stitching on this, or the furniture. I used E6000, stretched it over the frame and spread the glue on a 1/2" of overlapped material with my finger.
It even has the pockets around the middle rods so they spread out properly when you set up the bimini top.
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