My Phil Thomas Super Sport 21

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  • detox
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jun 2008
    • 2318

    #1

    My Phil Thomas Super Sport 21

    Just got started. I cut off 3/8" rear hatch then reglued to hull so more area for hatch tape to stick. I will not cut my hatch in half like most people do for easier taping...I simply cleaned up area at front of hatch for closer fit. This will make for easier taping. Hull will be easier to convert back to Nitro if I ever do.

    Mock up motor mount will be bolted to factory hull aluminum plates (nitro version hull has these plates installed in floor). I will position Lipos on each side of NUE 1515 motor for easy balance. The larger Hyperion G3 5500 4s packs will also fit in this area.

    Made a special trip to Summitracing's warehouse in Macdonough, GA. and purchased some Summitracing urethane 2k high build primer/surfacer and Pure White urethane paint. I will start painting the hull after everything is test fitted and hull has been scuffed using Green Scotch Brite pads. I am using Microballoons and Zpoxy finishing resin to fill large imperfections in hull before priming.

    I will post more pictures later.
    Last edited by detox; 10-02-2009, 09:10 PM.
  • detox
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jun 2008
    • 2318

    #2
    One more picture of rear hatch area.

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    • Raydee
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • May 2007
      • 1603

      #3
      Looking good, I also have one that I bought last season. Its still sitting in the same state that I bought it in with the exception that I cut the rear of the canopy like you did. I mocked up a motor mount and laid everything out for a nice winter build. There is a lot of work to finish these epoxy hulls but they run great so its worth it. I LOVE my SS45, best running hull I have run in a long time.
      Team Liquid Dash

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      • detox
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jun 2008
        • 2318

        #4
        Installing the motor mount (my own design) was the most challenging part of the build so far. This mount will also carry the larger Feigao 580L motor. I used the same motor angle as Nitro motor just in case this hull is switched back to nitro power. I will unbolt and remove mount before painting. The .187 flex cable will be used without teflon liner or maybe I will use the .072 wire drive with liner (1/4" stuffing tube is used). BTW...using the larger .187 Octura collet requires no trimming of NUE motor shaft (perfect fit)
        Last edited by detox; 08-15-2009, 10:08 PM.

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        • Raydee
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2007
          • 1603

          #5
          HAHAAH, exactly the way I did mine except I turned the mount around the other way and have a part that comes up and holds up the back of the motor too.
          Team Liquid Dash

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          • detox
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Jun 2008
            • 2318

            #6
            Originally posted by Raydee
            HAHAAH, exactly the way I did mine except I turned the mount around the other way and have a part that comes up and holds up the back of the motor too.
            I tried it LOTS of different ways including your way, but this removable mount allowed motor to set lowest and put less angle on stuffing tube using the larger can motors. Mount seems strong enough, but I may glue a piece of plywood on hull to cradle back end of motor.

            Here's more pictures using large battery packs. The packs pictured measure 140mm long x 46mm wide x 40mm thick


            ...
            Last edited by detox; 08-15-2009, 10:30 PM.

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            • detox
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jun 2008
              • 2318

              #7
              UL-1 Hardware being installed. Speedmaster strut replaces UL-1 strut. Stock UL-1 Turnfin will also be used.

              Comment

              • LuckyDuc
                Team Ducati Racing
                • Dec 2008
                • 989

                #8
                Looks good. I plan to use the UL-1 hardware on my Whiplash 20. I will be using a different turn fin though, and a speed master strut as well. You might look at the Virginia Craftsman turn fin that is specifically made for the Phil Thomas hull.

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                • detox
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jun 2008
                  • 2318

                  #9
                  UL-1 turn fin is only slightly smaller than fin scetched in instructions. I will mount the UL-1 fin 1/4" lower into water to make up for the smaller size difference. If it does not work I can allways change to different turn fin.

                  Smaller fin should cause less drag...I think? I just hope it turns well.

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                  • detox
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Jun 2008
                    • 2318

                    #10
                    I routed water lines and hardware just like the UL-1. Steering servo linkage boot will slip over 11/32" brass tube. I annealed 1/4" brass stuffing tube with propane torch for easy bending.

                    Comment

                    • longballlumber
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 3132

                      #11
                      Very nice build. Keep up the good work.

                      Mike

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                      • nate
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Mar 2009
                        • 1652

                        #12
                        Originally posted by detox
                        I routed water lines and hardware just like the UL-1. Steering servo linkage boot will slip over 11/32" brass tube. I annealed 1/4" brass stuffing tube with propane torch for easy bending.
                        That must be a new water pickup technique lol...Im sure it will work well. Nah but your boat looks sweet man, I wanna know what color will be burning on the water for this one??
                        LMT
                        LehnerMotorenTechnik.com

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                        • detox
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Jun 2008
                          • 2318

                          #13
                          It is very easy to slip 1/8" aluminum plate inside of hull for mounting things. I drilled two small holes then injected epoxy using syringe before slipping in aluminum plate. Here I installed a piece of aluminum to attach servo (red circle). I then drilled and tapped plate to hold Aquacraft steering servo mount.

                          I trial fitted different battery/esc setups and boat balances very easily. Next I will disassemble hardware from hull then paint White.

                          .
                          Last edited by detox; 08-22-2009, 02:31 PM.

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                          • Ub Hauled
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Aug 2007
                            • 3031

                            #14
                            Keith, any reason you placed the servo this far forward?
                            :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

                            Comment

                            • Fluid
                              Fast and Furious
                              • Apr 2007
                              • 8012

                              #15
                              Jan, that is the preferred mounting position. Getting the CG forward is critical on this hull and putting the servo near the transom would be counter productive..




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