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Thread: PRO BOAT UL-19_How to run on 6S with stock prop

  1. 08-24-2018, 05:51 PM #121
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  2. 08-24-2018, 06:05 PM #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    Thanks! That's good to hear...

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    I may pick your brain a bit as I begin this journey with mine. It's on its way to me :-)
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  3. 08-24-2018, 06:18 PM #123
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  4. 08-25-2018, 03:10 PM #124
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    [


    QUOTE=sammyha;723334]Perfect. That is why I started this post. I believe most anyone with a bit of talent and the right info can succeed at anything.

    Many times the right info is out there, but scattered.

    I'll be super interested in your progress, so definitely share it here.

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    I will for sure!
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  5. 08-31-2018, 11:58 PM #125
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  6. 09-03-2018, 05:06 PM #126
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  7. 09-03-2018, 05:45 PM #127
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  8. 09-03-2018, 08:05 PM #128
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    DELETED...



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  9. 09-04-2018, 11:22 AM #129
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  10. 09-04-2018, 12:07 PM #130
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    Default Question for Sam

    Sam,

    I just got my boat delivered this weekend and have done a LOT of reading about the correct set-up etc., much of that content coming from you. I have a question to pose to you: this being my first venture into RC boats, I am definitely interested in going fast but probably not full blown pure speed runs, or "SAW's" as they are reffered to, at this point. I would simply like to be able to cruise the boat around at somewhere in the 60mph range and not have it overheat. To accomplish this, I have ordered a Chris Hoffman (Dasboata) prop, the dual intake rudder, an upgraded (stronger but same diameter) flex shaft from OSE and a few sets of 3S batteries to run the boat at 6S. That being said, if you had to pick the top 1-2-3? things I need to do to accomplish this goal, what would you recommend? From all that I've read it sounds like it really comes down to just rasing the strut height from how it comes stock. Thanks
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  11. 09-04-2018, 12:38 PM #131
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  12. 09-04-2018, 02:36 PM #132
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  13. 09-04-2018, 02:49 PM #133
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    Thanks Sam! What eaxctly is a prop saver? I have a couple bullet nuts but I've heard they're dangerous to use as they can come off.
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  14. 09-04-2018, 02:50 PM #134
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    Great stuff as always!
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  15. 09-04-2018, 02:56 PM #135
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  16. 09-04-2018, 10:03 PM #136
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  17. 09-05-2018, 12:47 PM #137
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  18. 09-05-2018, 10:48 PM #138
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    Hey this is a great thread, keep up the good work something to consider on your next boat and cooling mod, use an under hull dual intake, 8$ great cooling


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  19. 09-05-2018, 10:50 PM #139
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  20. 09-07-2018, 06:55 AM #140
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  21. 09-07-2018, 10:36 AM #141
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    Default Question for Sam

    Sam,

    How in the world did you get the existing water outlet nipple out of the boat to replace with the 2 larger diameter outlets from OSE? I simply cannot get mine out. When I manage to get a socket around the bolt on the inside (not an easy feat in itself) and then stick a flathead screwdriver into the slot on the outsode of the nipple and start turn it, the flathead just strips the slot away as the aluminum is so soft. I feel like maybe the applied some sort of glue to the threading where the bolt is that caused it to bond solid.


    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    For the rest of the cooling system upgrade I used...

    Large 9/32" tubing.
    The grommets for 6.8mm or large tubing.
    Large outlets.

    All purchased from Offshore Electrics website...



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  22. 09-07-2018, 10:50 AM #142
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  23. 09-07-2018, 11:19 AM #143
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    Default thx

    Thanks as always. My boat is here and I'm feverishly starting all of the upgrades!

    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    They were tough to get out. I chewed my screwdriver slots up some too, but got them out. Try heating the outlet with a small soldering iron. Or drill the outlet out completely.

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  24. 09-07-2018, 11:48 AM #144
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  25. 09-07-2018, 12:11 PM #145
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    I actually just bought one- what a handy little device! I'll keep you posted on the progress. Hoping to have her ready for water within 2 weeks given my busy travel schedule. I've got a S&B Dasboata 1716 prop ready to go, dual intake rudder (the one from RC Boat Bitz in AU which has two intake holes on each side of the rudder which I am hoping will alleviate the need to do your brass tube mod), an after-market turning fin that is apparently superior to the one that comes with it, both an upgraded OSE drive shaft and larger diameter one and just about everything else I need from connectors and larger bore nipples to keep the temps down. Once all that is installed I will do some adjustments to the strut height based off your posts here and hopefully be ready to go. I probably won't take my strut height/angle quite to the level you did as I'm not looking for all-out brute speed but I'm sure some small adjustment will help. Thanks again for all the intel.


    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    Great! Sounds like you're getting right to it.

    Do you have a temperature gun?

    My cooling system upgrade on 6S with stock 1716 prop is good for 5 laps as hard as I can push it. Hitting 55ish plus mph. That's around 1-1/2 minutes.

    I have run a fresh charge on my Revolectrix lipos for 3-1/2 minutes just mucking around. Running circles with some straight speed bursts of 60mph plus mixed in there. So, that's a pretty short run. But a ton of power and fun!

    Comes in for both at 135ish on the esc and 125ish on the motor. Lipos were done after the 3-1/2 minute run at 3.8 volts per cell.

    Just keep an eye on it, find out for yourself what it can handle...

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  26. 09-07-2018, 12:18 PM #146
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  27. 09-07-2018, 12:50 PM #147
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    Interesting, not sure how I missed that you had the same one. Any thoughts as to which system I should connect to the left side inlet? Motor or ESC?


    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    Same rudder I bought. Had two inlets. Whichever system you hook up that gets water from the left side inlet will run hotter turning laps to the right. Be fine if you're not pushing it hard...

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  28. 09-07-2018, 12:57 PM #148
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  29. 09-07-2018, 01:07 PM #149
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    Good to know. The AU one is definitely better equipped to draw more water. Along with more intake holes (and larger diameter as well) the nipples on the top of the rudder have a larfer internal diameter as well. Did you by chance think about drilling out the intake/outflow nipples on your ESC by chance? Seems logical that if all of the intakes, exit nipples and internal diameter of the tubing is larger, it would all get bottlenecked with the smaller diameter holes on the ESC nipples. I drilled out my motor cooling jacket intakes/outflow nipples very easily. Thinking of doing the same with the ESC
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  30. 09-07-2018, 01:22 PM #150
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