I added some xtra gluing surface for the bottom and plastic welded it together. Seems pretty strong. If this doesn't work, I'm going the Detox route with the micro balloons!
I added some xtra gluing surface for the bottom and plastic welded it together. Seems pretty strong. If this doesn't work, I'm going the Detox route with the micro balloons!
Mine is carbon across the seem...........because I didn't have any aramid fiber.
Noisy person
I'll have to check that out. Is anyone going to be at the pond this weekend?
Be there today too but I couldnt get the new pearl done last night.
Noisy person
The V5.7 is finally done. Need to get the hardware back in.
Here is the V6.2. And yes, it's pink. It has the same outer geometry (narrow profile) as the V8, but without the weight removal in all the frames. I plan to do a pink panther theme with the title on one sponson and the panther casually laying down on the other sponson.
The nose worked out good with the xtra material to weld to. This is how I plan to do all the noses from here on out. It's less cumbersome and only requires one pc of tape on the top. Testing starts Saturday!!!!!
By the way, I sanded the nose at the seam with 220, 400, then 800. It's barely noticeable that it is 2pcs.
bahahaha Right Mike. You know what else might be cool?.................... If it ran well.
I just refuse to put killer paint jobs on these anymore. I race them too hard to be bothered. If I can get away with bare wood I'm doing it. I call them 50mph paint jobs. They look okay on the way by.
Is that boat really pink Pete? It better be fast.
Noisy person
First things first: LOOK GOOD DOING IT!
oh, and by the way, the pink boat has a 70mph paint job!!!!
Finally had her out this weekend. Not bad for the maiden voyage, but she's blowing over when I give it a touch of left. In my opinion, that's unacceptable. It should allow for a little left to fade in/out. Max speed with the 1515-1Y was 64.6 with Kevin's fin (stainless steel, thin). Important to note though that the CG is considerably farther back with the new design (nose is hollow). Also, the rudder is on the right which is not typically how I build.
Good news is that the new nose cone attachment method survived everything I could throw at it including a couple blow overs, and I only used ONE pc of tape! It's much quicker to attach and it doesn't get in the way underneath. This will be the new SOP from now on.
Oh, and I'm running lead teflon strut bushings like the old days. We'll see how long they last.
Next week we'll adjust the CG and install the BIG MOTOR to get some current data.
Looks like pink is catching on.
You know I love it Pete.
I'm still using lead teflon bushings in some boats. Still work fine for me.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Pink Panther Strikes Again
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu1RZaFnkKs
...
Nice!
Installed the new motor. Why didn't anyone tell me the TP motor wires are actually windings? They are insulated. Farts! Took me nearly an hour to sand it all off and tin them. 2400KV. Gonna be interesting.
hmmmm......
I cut them on purpose sometimes and I have a cast iron end cap as a crucible for a Caustic solution that just easily melts the insulation off. Just neutralize it after with mixture of baking soda and water.
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Hmmm is right. You bring back an old forgotten standard from the NiMh days. Works well.
Nortavlag Bulc
Ping pong balls and two part foam. How did you think the led sled survived all these years? The skins fell off the deck and the boat is still solid.
Noisy person
ROTFLMAO....
Nortavlag Bulc
so the two part foam doesn't attack the ping pong balls?
"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy Graham
I haven't done any calculations yet to see if the volume of ping pong balls will suffice, but it sure allows for a lot of air to circulate around them, which is key to allow the boat to dry out.
I checked again. The Whip 20 is solid foam. The Whip 40 had the ping pong balls in it. That boat ripped itself in half because I was too cheap and stubborn to buy West systems at the time. When you build wood boats guys, don't buy the cheapest hobby shop epoxy you can find. It sucks and wont hold up. I don't care if it's West or MAS or something else. Get quality epoxy and the boat will last for 10 years. My newer Whip 40 has been running since 2010 and I've crashed it into every danged thing. Even the bottom of the lake. Still rock solid.
The 2 part pour in doesn't eat plastic. It's urethane. Not polyester. It doesn't even smell too horrible. That or I could be partially brain dead and can't smell it.
That said, I still don't recommend filling cavities with any kind of foam. Limited application is better IMO. It makes for a super super strong structure but it adds weight like crazy. A simple Whiplash weighed in at over 9 pounds RTR. That's why we called it the led sled. It also will deform anything it can when it expands and contracts. I think you would get less of that with the ping pong balls but I don't know for sure since it was a wood boat I did it in. The decking was 1/16 and less prone to that warping.
Noisy person
I had a whole gross of them at one time. I put them in a scale and I thought had them secured. Suffice it to say...............HOW BOUT NO! They sound super once they come loose and are trapped inside your boat.
Uncle Norm used to put them in a battery shrink tube and shrink them together. Less likely to come loose that way. Looked like something obscene though.
Noisy person
Mythbusters raised a sunken boat that way in an episode.
Noisy person
Well, we just beat the rain last night, literally by minutes! It's a two hour drive from work to the pond, so I was determined to get a run in. If it wasn't for the woman in front of me applying make-up (TRUE STORY!!!), I may have gotten in another run!!
Anyhow, I ran it once with the new motor (TP, 2400kv, slightly longer can). Don't know if I can trust the GPS yet, but it read 71mph! I'll have to back that up a few times because the most I had with the 1515-1Y 2200kv motor was 64.6mph. Temps, current, and ripple were all OK. It ran so good, I almost handed the boat to Kevin to take to Atlanta!
It baffles me a little because in addition to the motor change, I lowered the strut and shifted the CG slightly forward. It was faster, turned better, and no signs of blow-over. Can't put my finger on what caused it to turn better. Can a lowered strut help steering????
Lowered the strut?
Do you mean deeper in the water?
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
Yes sir. Deeper in the water. Lifted the backside and essentially decreased the angle of attack in front.
I wonder if incorrect turn fin angle caused the previous blow over (when turning left).
With a curved turn fin - any time you turn left at speed, the water pushes the sponson up and the boat rolls over counter clockwise.
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
I never changed the fin between runs. I think it was just running real loose and it made it more susceptible to the 'riding up the fin' condition.
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