I'm closing up the sponsons! I made a template for the inside sheets. I layed some extra glass for the end caps at the same time...
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Last edited by sammyha; 03-12-2019 at 01:57 PM.
I made four more formers for the stainless steel turn fin block. There's one behind the SS block if you're counting.
I put the original foam back in the sponsons.
Notice I didn't tape the fiberglass sheets to the sponsons while epoxying them together. Rather I have them setting on flat boards with the sponsons just setting on them. So they don't pick up any uneven areas from all the bashing I did to them...
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I have not been around much lately due to my bike accident, so I am catching up hear. I scanned and read lightly over all..... as to not eat a lot of time and get a general overview of processes you are doing.
Great job! Love the thinking out side the box.
I do not know if the epoxy has hardened enough yet. But to promote the hardening, paint and wax is used to keep the air away and support the chemical reaction. There is small amounts of wax in hardeners to begin with. But if mixes are off I will add a coat later. This is the reason sanding is needed between coats. I also did not see if you were waxing the molds either. Just some thoughts trying to help.
Thanks for checking in. This is my first fiberglass project, so it's been a steep learning curve. So wax and paint seals epoxy, keeps the chemical reaction going. Hmmn. Everything I molded is cured now.
And I've been sanding the epoxy. I knew to do that but didn't know why.
I've been using contact paper to release my molds. Instead of wax paper. It stays in place. Also everything I molded was flat.
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The sponsons are all buttoned up. The world's first Pro Boat outrigger sponsons! Hehe...
Time for final filling and sanding. Then paint.
So I'm gonna try to reuse the Pro Boat letters. Peel the stickers and store them on wax paper. But just in case, I made some templates. I'll paint them if I have to...
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I use wax paper for light stuff found it wrinkles, so a roll last a log time. Sounds like you found something with the contact paper. I saw that the other day on DIY using shelf paper. I use Buckshot bags to weight parts while gluing. I have mold's three sides of the sponson and do a wood backing. I have been testing flat sheet layups on well waxed glass with bagging and vacuum with great results to make sheets.
What is the contact paper brand you are using?
Here's the link, from Amazon...
12" X 10ft Clear Transfer Paper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY8CLCG...p_mob_ap_share
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After reading a bit it sort of reminds me of the frisket paper I cut on my vinyl cutter for template painting.
This should be able to run with the big dogs...
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Looking very impressive. Very intimidating size and look. Glad I don't run that class in your area, lol...
If that's a kitchen, you must be single or you have a very accommodating partner.
Nortavlag Bulc
Hope your recovery is going well!
Interesting...and the epoxy doesn't stick to it? Typically that is used for placing vinyl cut stickers on the surface. I use transfer paper with my vinyl cutter to pre-cut masks for my rc cars for airbrushing. The transfer paper bends better than transfer tape so it is easier to get it around the complex curves of an rc car body...However you can feel the fibers so I doubt transfer paper would work all that well for epoxy.
The stickers came off in great shape. Started one corner slipping an exacto knife under it, then a slow steady pull.
Doing a body chop makes for a lot of filling and sanding on the seams. I'm done filling and rough sanding on the tub. Still needs a final wet sending. I radiused all the corners...
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I'm getting there on the sponsons. Wet sanding all the factory paint off. I want good adhesion to the fiberglass with the Klass Kote epoxy paint.
Hopefully start painting this weekend...
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That is looking awesome. One of a kind and class all the way! Can’t wait to see it painted
I started painting today. Here's my setup...
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Check out this video. It covers what I did and how the Preval sprayer worked out...
https://youtu.be/4jh0XJLWrIo
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Here you are, a whole lot of work to get to this point...
https://youtu.be/rIOd36Vqk5s
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Looks great, Did you get the clear coat also?
I have power tool's, it will fit
I didn't get Klass Kote clear, but I'll spray a coat of finishing resin on it. Here's what I did, after I wet sanded the indigo blue Klass Kote.
I had a decision to make. Go with a unique color that didn't match, or spray it with Pactra True Pearl. I sprayed the last coat with that from spray cans. So yes, it needs a clear coat still...
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How close was the color match? A friend has a UL-19 that is going to need some repainting soon. Did you end up using the Pactra True Pearl?
Thanks
There's a never ending amount of work to building boats. We all should call the RTR companies up and thank them for what they produce. Or at the very least send a text...
I got the stand built for the UL19XR.
I used the Preval spray system to spray it with yellow Klass Kote. Such a handy gun to have around...
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I'm interested in the Preval system. I wait to see your results.
Nortavlag Bulc
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