if we assume I got the soldering done rite. what should I look for next. the lipos are still dropping at full throttle to 19v ...could that heat up the wires?
if we assume I got the soldering done rite. what should I look for next. the lipos are still dropping at full throttle to 19v ...could that heat up the wires?
6.5mm castle bullets
should I change the PWM rate on ESC from 8khz to 12khz?
is there a timing that would lower the amp draw?
ty
do you think I should be pulling 200 + amps with this set up. ?
I ran the 1950kv 4060 at 5s for a short bit with a octura m545. That setup short pull a little more amps than the 1750kv on 6s with a 45mm prop.
I don't understand why your connectors are getting so hot. Like one said a 60w soldering iron.
But I would get a 120w if I can find one. I cannot see you getting a good solder joint without the flux. And that solder have to penetrate every strand.
One more thing in my experience I have learned it is better to charge a brand new battery to 4.15v per cell than 4.2v per cell. I have had cells get damage at 4.19v for the cells.
The cell gained higher internal resistance. I lost a few mph as a result.
doing some calculations, my motor is rated over 6000 watts
that's over 255 amps at full throttle. so the amps being high makes more sence now.
also, agree with someones last post connectors are not large enough.
I am taking this motor out, 4200 watts is a good motor for this set up.
4200 watts draws 190amps
I can keep my 220 esc and things should cool down.
What I cannot understand I know I saw that someone ran octura x457 and x460 and many other sizes above 50mm even some 3 blades. On the leopard 4092 1730kv on 6s. The leopard was handling these props.
Following this thread I think it was mentioned that an m645 was used. No where near the load of a x450 let along a x457 or x460.
I would have thought the tp was a little more powerful than the leopard. At least in my experience the tp 4060 is a little faster than the 4092 leopard.
Comparing a 4092 2080kv and the 1730kv leopard vs the tp 4060 1950kv.
I know one thing though the tp need a real good battery.
I gain 8mph just off of one battery vs another battery.
I think the boat weight and size and fritction to water can make some difference in props and how they move boat but, the heavey amp draw imo is what this motor does. imo this motor is probably more suited for 8s and above
just my humble opinion.
I am taking this motor out and swapping for a 4200 watt motor
Thank you all, it all helps.
I will update when I reconfigure the setup and let you all know where it ends up.
side note: I called Chris Fine to set me up with a 70 mph set up for this boat.
I talked to him on the phone for some time explaining what I had and what I needed, he sent me a 43mm prop with a 180amp esc with the tp motor rated at 8hp. if you do not know Fine Design RC he has been in the going fast game for many years, that's why I called him personally. the esc never would be enough and the prop ran at 47mph
I wish I would of stuck to the info here at OSE already.
facts not slander
Last edited by Crash; 08-20-2018 at 08:24 AM.
I made reference to someone running a leopard 4092 1730kv on 6s with props as big a octura x460.
The boat it was done with is the proboat voracity. Which I think is the same boat you are running.
I have yet to try a 4092 on more than 5s.
The stuff I refer to with the battery charging to 4.15v per cell I never heard of it before. I learned about it through experimentation. I think the smc cells are one of the most powerful cells you can find. If they get wet you will have a problem though.
So protect them from water.
I was looking at your data log, and from what I can see your motor is performing but the batteries seem to be the problem.
Another thing to consider the voracity need a prop bigger than 45mm to really perform.
The problem is with the amps the tp appears to be pulling I don't know if a bigger prop would be the direction to take.
Better batteries should give a few mph though.
From the data posted your run tim is way too high for your setup, try and cut your run time down considerably and you will see your temps drops
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I notice something else from the datalog.
Looking at the current in the first 62 seconds the graph illustrates that the peak amps was significantly lower than later in the run. The rpm was alot higher in the early parts too.
Something happen later in the run that caused the amps to increase significantly. As a result the motor rpm fell off significantly.
I think what happen later on is the reason the motor connector got so hot.
You can reset data from its application, or keep recording on different runs but it will wrap around when it gets to the end of the data...
You can throw all the numbers you want at a setup, X457 X646 50c 70c 6000watts 5000 watts 2000kv 300 amp this 22 volts that etc etc etc, but until you learn how to set your boat up to run properly you are gonna have problems. Not once in all these posts have you said what ur strut depth is vs your prop size, your CG or if the boat is running wet or dry? and weather or not you've sanded scuffed or blueprinted the bottom of the hull. I have taken poor running boats and with a couple turns on a few screws a sanding block and a straight edge turned them into winning boats. Also prop tech has a lot to do with speed, amp draw, heat runtime etc. For example my daughter did a science project. She took 6 of my 455/3 blade props, (all modified) none of them looked alike and none performed alike. She described the changes made to each prop and what each change made each prop do. (BTW The project got an A and she won her science fair). What I'm basically saying is learn your boat, try different things and see what they make your boat do. Try batts forward, try em back, try diff strut heights or angles, mess w the trim tabs, try diff props, and keep a notebook of what you did. My first real boat was an Aeromarine Titan 29, I must have run that thing 6-700 times and changed stuff every run, and have a notebook prob w 50-60 pages of info that I jotted down after every run. With just hull tuning I was able to go from 41 to 48 mph. That is almost a 20% increase in speed without changing motor battery or prop. There's plenty of speed secrets out there without having to change your whole setup
We call ourselves the "Q"
thanks to everyone here at OSE
I did get the boat set up pretty good . It is a combination of everything mentioned that got me from 42mph to 62 mph with all the same equipment by most means of the word.
The weak point is the batteries so, I am taking a idea from this thread and going parallel with the lipos.
also, because I own the 1750 KV already , I went with 5s
that puts motor rpm in the 29 to 30k area under load
Received mu 5S lipos and got a couple runs in.
The boat loves this set up now.
Thanks again to you all.
This is the final set up: TP Power 4060 3y 1750 kv
5S Admiral Pro 4000mah 60C x2 running Parallel
Swordfish X 220 amp (300 burst) ESC
CNC OSE 2 blade 55mm x 1.6"
results: 249 max amp draw
35 C max temp on ESC
rpm 32k under load
64 mph today into the wind
I run that TP 3Y on 6S in a DF 39" mono. with an X447/3 it runs low 60's and pulls 180-210amps on the MGM25035 data logger. (6 lap setup) To go 70 you will need an X450 or 452 (or ABC 1816 ,1817 to 1915) and your amps will be well over 200. A T180 will fry at some point pushing that load. I have 2 T180's that cut out no matter what I do, eliminate BEC and LV cutoff. Your SF 220 hopefully will hold up. Like Mike Paggs I keep a note book and try many prop and trim combinations.
Mic
Mic Halbrehder
IMPBA 8656
NAMBA 1414
Great to hear your improvements. So you turning a bigger prop, reving higher and using a cell less. That is progress.
That confirm that you was not getting nowhere near full potential on 6s previously.
clocked 68 mph on gps
I had to push it beyond the handleing set up that day and I knew it but, I pushed it past the point where it lost contact with the water and ….. you know the rest.
after its short flight upside down threw the air which seemed to be in slow motion...…………………………………†¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â €¦.@#$^*((**(*&^%$#!!!!
after retrieving it from the pond upside down I took it back to shop with what I knew was a damaged hull but, also the ESC got too wet and shorted out.
The hull is certainly salvageable and actually still driveable for the season.
Only gOod thing is NEW ESC is on order from OSE and can not wait.
I went over kill for the simple reason the 300 amp SF X is only 60 bucks more then the SF 240 that I was going to buy.
yes, Swordfish 300 X
YIKES its huge
And goergous
It fits for mock up.
Tomarrow I will solder up connectors
0908181703.jpg
OSE carbon mount
0908181703b.jpg
Last edited by Crash; 09-08-2018 at 07:09 PM.
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