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Thread: Revolt 30 maiden voyage last night

  1. #1
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    Default Revolt 30 maiden voyage last night

    Finally got my batteries, learned my powerlab 6 charger and ready to try her out! The long shipping time for my batteries was probably a good thing as this gave me time to balance and sharpen my prop, sharpen the rudder, elongate the water inlet hole, replace the stock shaft and collet nut with the one from OSE, add the thrust bearing, change all my connecters to EC5's, Loctite all the hardware, and read read read the forum for hints and adjustments. The boat ran great! It seems very fast and handles well. Not a single drop of water in the hull when finished. I did notice it chine walked at top speed. I have since raised my turn fins up, slightly lowered the inboard trim tabs and looking forward to see what that does. My batteries were all the way back so I will experiment with relocating those next time out. Awesome boat and very happy so far.

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    tom899, good for you ! I did exactly the same thing and have an excellent Revolt. Let me know how your "chine walking" adjustments work as this is my next set of adjustments. same set-up as you have w/o those adj's.
    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom899 View Post
    Finally got my batteries, learned my powerlab 6 charger and ready to try her out! The long shipping time for my batteries was probably a good thing as this gave me time to balance and sharpen my prop, sharpen the rudder, elongate the water inlet hole, replace the stock shaft and collet nut with the one from OSE, add the thrust bearing, change all my connecters to EC5's, Loctite all the hardware, and read read read the forum for hints and adjustments. The boat ran great! It seems very fast and handles well. Not a single drop of water in the hull when finished. I did notice it chine walked at top speed. I have since raised my turn fins up, slightly lowered the inboard trim tabs and looking forward to see what that does. My batteries were all the way back so I will experiment with relocating those next time out. Awesome boat and very happy so far.
    Hello Tom,

    Did you have to use a spacer when adding the thrust bearing? When you do this upgrade do you have to tighten the collet all the way up againgt the bearing? I will be doin this same upgrade on my Revolt and wanted to make sure I install it correctly.

    Thank you.
    Last edited by gyrotron; 08-11-2012 at 02:25 AM.

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    I didn't have to use a spacer, I think because I also ordered the upgraded collet and nut which is longer than the original, it actually has two set screws to hold it on the shaft. I have it against the bearing but it's not preloaded which I think it should be. I may redo it as read another user mentioned he preloaded his by 1\2. I need more information on what is recommended?

    Quote Originally Posted by gyrotron View Post
    Hello Tom,

    Did you have to use a specer when adding the thrust bearing? When you do this upgrade do you have to tighten the collet all the way up againgt the bearing? I will be doin this same upgrade on my Revolt and wanted to make sure I install it correctly.

    Thank you.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sturco View Post
    tom899, good for you ! I did exactly the same thing and have an excellent Revolt. Let me know how your "chine walking" adjustments work as this is my next set of adjustments. same set-up as you have w/o those adj's.
    Steve
    I'll let you know what I find and you please let us know your experience?
    Thanks

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    I will as soon as I install the thrust bearing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sturco View Post
    tom899, good for you ! I did exactly the same thing and have an excellent Revolt. Let me know how your "chine walking" adjustments work as this is my next set of adjustments. same set-up as you have w/o those adj's.
    Steve
    My chine walk was bad with the 45 x 68 but FAST not racing so it's fine with me.....I like being on the edge I have to find the limits of my setup.

  8. #8
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    It seems to me that the chine walk will greatly reduce by moving the batteries forward at the cost of speed. I think I can put up with some chine walk for higher speed. So far I'm really pleased with the boat, I especially like how well it turns at high speed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom899 View Post
    It seems to me that the chine walk will greatly reduce by moving the batteries forward at the cost of speed. I think I can put up with some chine walk for higher speed. So far I'm really pleased with the boat, I especially like how well it turns at high speed.
    I ran yesterday 45 x 68 on glass smooth water no wind 44.7 mph 1000 watts ouch, sounded like more rpm and very little chine walk. Then I installed the stock prop that I finally sharped and balanced. The boat was about as fast as with the big prop. I forgot to bring my laptop so I could only save the first run. I telling you this is the prop you want. You can carve the water up, u turns and blast down the straightaway. My 4s is still back and I have it shimmed to the port / left side as it makes a difference. I have not lowered the trim tabs yet but I will just lower the starboard / right side outside one first, then second. This should help with the boats torque roll. I will bring the laptop next time as I leaving the stock prop on for now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Caruso View Post
    I ran yesterday 45 x 68 on glass smooth water no wind 44.7 mph 1000 watts ouch, sounded like more rpm and very little chine walk. Then I installed the stock prop that I finally sharped and balanced. The boat was about as fast as with the big prop. I forgot to bring my laptop so I could only save the first run. I telling you this is the prop you want. You can carve the water up, u turns and blast down the straightaway. My 4s is still back and I have it shimmed to the port / left side as it makes a difference. I have not lowered the trim tabs yet but I will just lower the starboard / right side outside one first, then second. This should help with the boats torque roll. I will bring the laptop next time as I leaving the stock prop on for now.
    Good to know you are getting some extra mph with the serviced stock prop. Let us know how the new trim tab setting went.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom899 View Post
    It seems to me that the chine walk will greatly reduce by moving the batteries forward at the cost of speed. I think I can put up with some chine walk for higher speed. So far I'm really pleased with the boat, I especially like how well it turns at high speed.
    Update- I ran with my bike Garmin GPS today (2oz), max speed was 35.8mph. The boat is stock except I balanced and sharpened the prop, elongated the water inlet, sharpened the rudder. I'm running two 2s 5000mah 45c nano batteries. I do have a Octra x642 and Grim Racer 45x68 props but have not prepared them yet. I sure would like to break 40mph. What do you guys think I should do for mods to gain 4 or 5mph?

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    I will run on Monday so Monday night I will post. Keep working with the stock prop BTW it takes a long time to sharpen that shape. Mike

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    Thought you might enjoy

    L45X68.. 5th run of the day. I dont usually show stuff like this but its good info to ponder.

    Attachment 83583
    Grim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    Thought you might enjoy

    L45X68.. 5th run of the day. I dont usually show stuff like this but its good info to ponder.

    Attachment 83583
    Grim
    Nice Mike mine don't look so smooth thats why I have not posted yet. I think I need to spend more time learning the ET layouts. My boat did like the 45x68 ran 45 and change more on the edge very cool. Mike

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    Nice Grim! I will start to prepare my L45x68. I would like to break 40mph (I'm at 35.8mph). Should I buy a particular battery / batteries? Are there any must do adjustments?
    Thanks for your help,
    Tom

    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    Thought you might enjoy

    L45X68.. 5th run of the day. I dont usually show stuff like this but its good info to ponder.

    Attachment 83583
    Grim
    Last edited by Tom899; 09-01-2012 at 09:09 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom899 View Post
    Update- I ran with my bike Garmin GPS today (2oz), max speed was 35.8mph. The boat is stock except I balanced and sharpened the prop, elongated the water inlet, sharpened the rudder. I'm running two 2s 5000mah 45c nano batteries. I do have a Octra x642 and Grim Racer 45x68 props but have not prepared them yet. I sure would like to break 40mph. What do you guys think I should do for mods to gain 4 or 5mph?
    Udate 2- I balanced and sharpened my Grim Racer 45x68 prop, installed it and ran 40.4mph (5mph increase over stock prop). This boat turns so sharp I think it's going to tip over but it doesn't! Very well designed.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom899 View Post
    Udate 2- I balanced and sharpened my Grim Racer 45x68 prop, installed it and ran 40.4mph (5mph increase over stock prop). This boat turns so sharp I think
    's going to tip over but it doesn't! Very well designed.
    That's great news now move the batteries back. Slow the steering down or turn slower, you are correct it does come about !!!!!! Coolest boat Big fun. Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Caruso View Post
    That's great news now move the batteries back. Slow the steering down or turn slower, you are correct it does come about !!!!!! Coolest boat Big fun. Mike
    This run was with my batteries all the way back. Maybe some different batteries? Move to one 4s instead of two 2s? Although the weight is about the same, just concentrated lower and more middle.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom899 View Post
    This run was with my batteries all the way back. Maybe some different batteries? Move to one 4s instead of two 2s? Although the weight is about the same, just concentrated lower and more middle.
    I have Grim 4s pack. Ran today something is going away in my boat. I have lost 8-10 mph I ran my Grim 4s pack, then 2x2s Hyperion 40c same performance as Grim and 2x2s Turnagy (not as strong batteries) I either have the motor which has lost some power (bearings + drive line OK) or the ESC is my problem. Really don't know what to do at this point? I can tell you the second to last run I finally adjusted the right trim tab level with the hull bottom. This did not slow the boat down but made it run almost perfect up right at WOT. The last run as I was tired and hot I turned the boat over and scuffed the bottom lightly with a 3M green pad (just the rear section) where the boat rides to see what would happen. SURPRISE best of the day and I had to re-trim steering to STRAIGHT which added 1-2 mph. Eagle Tree and Video tomorrow just too tired tonight. Mike

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Caruso View Post
    I have Grim 4s pack. Ran today something is going away in my boat. I have lost 8-10 mph I ran my Grim 4s pack, then 2x2s Hyperion 40c same performance as Grim and 2x2s Turnagy (not as strong batteries) I either have the motor which has lost some power (bearings + drive line OK) or the ESC is my problem. Really don't know what to do at this point? I can tell you the second to last run I finally adjusted the right trim tab level with the hull bottom. This did not slow the boat down but made it run almost perfect up right at WOT. The last run as I was tired and hot I turned the boat over and scuffed the bottom lightly with a 3M green pad (just the rear section) where the boat rides to see what would happen. SURPRISE best of the day and I had to re-trim steering to STRAIGHT which added 1-2 mph. Eagle Tree and Video tomorrow just too tired tonight. Mike
    Hello Mike,
    I had a considerable loss of velocity (with some extra noise) when my Revolt's sutffing tube got loose; which augmented the friction inside it. Have you check the stuffing tube has not moved and/or loosened?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gyrotron View Post
    Hello Mike,
    I had a considerable loss of velocity (with some extra noise) when my Revolt's sutffing tube got loose; which augmented the friction inside it. Have you check the stuffing tube has not moved and/or loosened?
    Thank you for the question. My stuffing box came loose during pre-fight before it ever hit the water. Everything mechanically is good. I wish I knew how to check the motor strength? Before I ran maybe if I took a oz/in reading with a short wrench on the cable nut to measure the magnets load on each pole. I hope someone can help as the boat is going to sit until I know what to buy to fix it. I just don't want to throw $$$$ at it.
    P.S. It all started after the day I turned the throttle trim to bring the boat in slowly by some rocks. Never been the correct since....ESC tweaked?
    Last edited by Mike Caruso; 09-04-2012 at 09:48 AM. Reason: More info P.S.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Caruso View Post
    Thank you for the question. My stuffing box came loose during pre-fight before it ever hit the water. Everything mechanically is good. I wish I knew how to check the motor strength? Before I ran maybe if I took a oz/in reading with a short wrench on the cable nut to measure the magnets load on each pole. I hope someone can help as the boat is going to sit until I know what to buy to fix it. I just don't want to throw $$$$ at it.
    P.S. It all started after the day I turned the throttle trim to bring the boat in slowly by some rocks. Never been the correct since....ESC tweaked?
    Mike,

    if it did not let the smoke out take a close look at the motor connectors. Typically" if it does not let the smoke out its not the Controller.. Might..might.. be the motor but start with the connectors to the motor.

    Also.. Start over with the radio setup.. turn the TH trim to the 2 O clock position and start over.

    Grim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    Mike,

    if it did not let the smoke out take a close look at the motor connectors. Typically" if it does not let the smoke out its not the Controller.. Might..might.. be the motor but start with the connectors to the motor.

    Also.. Start over with the radio setup.. turn the TH trim to the 2 O clock position and start over.

    Grim
    Thanks Grim,

    Still checking the system over took rear cover off motor wires in there are fine. I noticed that the front end plate where I added a thrust bearing seemed tighter than I remember. I have to take that end off and check it out. I did some research and the 695-Z bearing used in the 1800kv motor will take thrust from the prop no problem. So I can see me removing the thrust bearing. One of the three motor to ESC connectors not real tight. I have the Eagle tree graph and a short video but don't see how to load them right now.

    Attachment 0Run-2-Time vs Current Speed and Power.jpg

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Caruso; 09-04-2012 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Add EAGLE TREE graph

  24. #24
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    Yep.. no need for a thrust bearing.. (shhh.. ya can tell em all ya want but they wont listen...lol).... Remember.. these motors are made to push and pull.. Not much need for grear drives anymore!

    Keep us posted

    Grim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    Yep.. no need for a thrust bearing.. (shhh.. ya can tell em all ya want but they wont listen...lol).... Remember.. these motors are made to push and pull.. Not much need for grear drives anymore!

    Keep us posted

    Grim
    Will do Grim.

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    thrust bearing.JPGthrust bearing 2.JPGNo oil to MB.JPGAcergoo Speed grease.jpg

    Look and learn from my screw ups.

    In my attempt to make an already great new boat better I have caused my own problems. So I want to share my screw ups with everyone so we all can get these Re Volts flying. At 35-38 mph I am too used to it, because my old boats ran this speed. Running 45 mph keeps my attention HA!!! HAVE FUN BE SAFE. Mike

    k.i.s.s. Keep it simple stupid..... Oh boy this could have really been bad because I installed a Thrust bearing on my motor and to my surprise it did GREAT job of cutting off oil to motor bearing. NOT A GOOD THING. Removing thrust bearing!!! Since I researched the 695Z motor bear (s) which can handle all the propeller end thrust without any problem! I am buying BOCA Ceramic one's I will let you people know how they work I believe it will be good.

    I was lazy and just used ACERGOO instead of walking ten steps to get my Grim Speed Grease. Do not use ACERGOO on any boat cable drive because Yikes it caused quick-accelerated wear on prop stub Yikes. ACERGOO works great on my RC cars and trucks so don't take this wrong. Wonder how they would do with Grim SG? BTW ACER offers SIN Lube which I did use on my motor bearings nice lube.

    Grim,
    Thank you for designing this boat I promise not to screw it up anymore.
    Mike
    P.S. Are the 695Z bearings Flanged or non-Flanged? And have you tried them?
    Last edited by Mike Caruso; 09-05-2012 at 01:49 PM. Reason: adding thank you / P.S.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Caruso View Post
    thrust bearing.JPGthrust bearing 2.JPGNo oil to MB.JPGAcergoo Speed grease.jpg

    Look and learn from my screw ups.

    In my attempt to make an already great new boat better I have caused my own problems. So I want to share my screw ups with everyone so we all can get these Re Volts flying. At 35-38 mph I am too used to it, because my old boats ran this speed. Running 45 mph keeps my attention HA!!! HAVE FUN BE SAFE. Mike

    k.i.s.s. Keep it simple stupid..... Oh boy this could have really been bad because I installed a Thrust bearing on my motor and to my surprise it did GREAT job of cutting off oil to motor bearing. NOT A GOOD THING. Removing thrust bearing!!! Since I researched the 695Z motor bear (s) which can handle all the propeller end thrust without any problem! I am buying BOCA Ceramic one's I will let you people know how they work I believe it will be good.

    I was lazy and just used ACERGOO instead of walking ten steps to get my Grim Speed Grease. Do not use ACERGOO on any boat cable drive because Yikes it caused quick-accelerated wear on prop stub Yikes. ACERGOO works great on my RC cars and trucks so don't take this wrong. Wonder how they would do with Grim SG? BTW ACER offers SIN Lube which I did use on my motor bearings nice lube.

    Grim,
    Thank you for designing this boat I promise not to screw it up anymore.
    Mike
    P.S. Are the 695Z bearings Flanged or non-Flanged? And have you tried them?
    Mike,

    Not a mistake.. a guy has got to try things.. its in out blood!
    Non Flanged and no I have not!

    Grim
    Grim

  28. #28
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    I bought two containers of Grim Grease when I bought my boat and grease the shaft after the day is over. I thought I may be over doing it but want to make sure it's good.

    Tom

  29. #29
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    I am running a m445 prop and running 41- 44 mph. Raced against an older supervee last weekend and was reeling it in on the straights and certainly have the advantage on the corners as well. I will also say raising the strut up a bit will lower the hull in the water and reduce the chine walk. I did this on mine and saw a noticable difference in the handling of the boat for the better. I am setting the battery about mid point in the tray. Any further forward and I notice there is a greater likelyhood to stuff the boat in a good race chop. Not too fun to hold your breath as you wait for you boat to come back to the surface....or not...

  30. #30
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    [QUOTE=Grimracer;450588]Mike,

    Not a mistake.. a guy has got to try things.. its in out blood!
    Non Flanged and no I have not!

    Grim

    Well

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