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Thread: Need Shockwave 26 Help, overheating

  1. #1

    Default Need Shockwave 26 Help, overheating

    I bought a shockwave 26 a week ago and bought a 7 cell intellet 3600 batt to go with it at my trusty hooby shop. Ran the boat once and in about 5 min it almost stopped completely but I was able to get it to limp back to the edge of the pond. The motor was very hot so I let it sit. The net day I ran it again and after a few min it stopped and wouldn't work at all even after cooling down. So i took it back to the hobby store and got a new one today. They are cool because I bought a villain ex from them and have had no overheating probs running two 7 cells.

    Talking with the tech at the shop who seems very knowledgeable I told him I read about these stock motors being crap so he recommended a traxxas titan 550 like I have in my Ex but he didn't have any. So I bought a 19 tun trinity chameleon motor. SAme can size so I just swapped it out as soon as I got home and reinstalled my deans plugs. Now I run the boat for about 4 min again, slow for about a min or so to break in the motor and then progressively got faster. After about 4 min the boat starting acting up. I got it to shore and smelled heat. the motor and esc were warm but ok, BUT THE DRIVE SHAFT WAS SIZZLING!! I licked my finger and touched it and the wetness actually audibly sizzled! This was the first run of 4 min.!!!! Is there something wring with the driveshat setup in these boats stock? Are they not greased from factory? Please help, sorry so long.

  2. #2

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    here are pics of my setup. Other than the trinity chameleon 19 turn motor tyhe boat is stock.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Nj
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    Default

    Unhook the coupler first and spin the prop. Check the drive line for binding.Pull the flex cable and inspect it. Make sure the liner hasent melted. Make sure you have some spacing between the coupler ad drive tube also.

  4. #4

    Default

    ok will do. I don't think there is a flex shaft in this shockwave is there? Solid shaft I am pretty sure without opening yet. I am packing to leave for NC tonight and will be away from my comp for a week so that's why I am trying to get help so I can fix it while im gone.

  5. #5
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    There should be a .130 cable running down the ujoint for the outdrive..

  6. #6
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    yeah, it's a solid shaft and the two I had just did not like the 7-cell set-up....stick with 6-cells and she'll go forever with routine maintenance...the ESC's cook with 7.....definitely take SJ's advice for the spacing between the tube and coupler.....you want some play there.....also lube the shaft within the strudder

  7. #7
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    I would replace that solid shaft.

  8. #8

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    I removed the shaft from the boat. There was very little lubricant on the shaft at all. Not sure how much is supposed to be on there though. There were some burnt spots it looked like. Only have run this boat 4 min total since I got it new today. Something with this driveline setup is screwed... How much marine lube should I have on the inner shaft?
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  9. #9
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    Put a good coat over the entire shaft. Not to much but make sure you have total coverage.

  10. #10

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    ok so replace the solid shaft design ok? Easy to do? Do I just buy a flex shaft that is long enough and small enough to go in the existing tube? OK so back to 6 cells ok until I get a better ESC then. Also how do you lube the shaft within the strudder? Please explain sorry? You mean keep the shaft in the tube and lube it that way? How do you get lube inside the tube then with shaft still in it?

  11. #11
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    um, no.....just undo the allen screws on the u-joint and the prop side...you'll see it's like an inch and a half long prop shaft

  12. #12
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    Pull the prop and drive dog and it should slip out the oposing side.

  13. #13

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    oh yeah I gotcha now, the strudder shaft. I'm an idiot it seems. LOL Yeah that shaft didn't have much lube either. So back to fixing the prob for good. Just buy a flexshaft then?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    21

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    Quote Originally Posted by evofan74 View Post
    oh yeah I gotcha now, the strudder shaft. I'm an idiot it seems. LOL Yeah that shaft didn't have much lube either. So back to fixing the prob for good. Just buy a flexshaft then?
    Did you buy one? From your pic of the shaft on your stove it looks to me like you shaft is bent - roll it on a flat surface like a piece of glass. If it is just get or make a new one - no need to go to cable.

  15. #15
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    Make sure you're using the thrust washers and have a little play in the driveline.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Here's what I read about heat problem on another forum

    Well in my short time with the Shockwave 26 I found that the coupling attaching the motor to the driveshat was actaully touching the metal tube the shaft goes into. Metal on metal is never good. Mine would still spin but the drag was huge im sure and the tube got extremely hot along with the esc and it just stopped after about 4 min. After I installed a Trinity Chameleon 19 turn motor in I made sure to leave a little room between the tube and the coupling so there is no rubbing.

    Also the driveshaft bacially had ZERO lube from the factory. Which will cause binding and of course heat. You need to remove the shaft and lube it up good along with the short propeller shaft too. Use Marine grease. $2.00 at WalMart in as huge tube. Will last a lifetime. Hope this helps

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by mocars2 View Post
    Here's what I read about heat problem on another forum

    Well in my short time with the Shockwave 26 I found that the coupling attaching the motor to the driveshat was actaully touching the metal tube the shaft goes into. Metal on metal is never good. Mine would still spin but the drag was huge im sure and the tube got extremely hot along with the esc and it just stopped after about 4 min. After I installed a Trinity Chameleon 19 turn motor in I made sure to leave a little room between the tube and the coupling so there is no rubbing.

    Also the driveshaft bacially had ZERO lube from the factory. Which will cause binding and of course heat. You need to remove the shaft and lube it up good along with the short propeller shaft too. Use Marine grease. $2.00 at WalMart in as huge tube. Will last a lifetime. Hope this helps
    LOL that was my quote on another thread!! :)

    I am still having heat issues though even after finding and resolving this issue above. Does anyone have pics of some brush cooling tubes installed? I think that is next. Also I need some prop recommendations. I tried a plastic Octura x431 but I think I lost a little bit of speed...

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    ME
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    77

    Default

    Theres actually a how-to on brush cooling on this site. Here you go.

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...cool-motor.php

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by kahnen View Post
    Theres actually a how-to on brush cooling on this site. Here you go.

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...cool-motor.php
    Sweet Thanks!

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