2 blade prop question.

[recloosetrav]

Thinking about putting a two bladed prop on my boat and was just curious if i will lose top speed and what is a good choice for the supervee.

[z400]

2 great choices are the Octura x642 or the Prather P220

[6S HYDRO]

or a x640, jumps right out of the hole with the 2 blades no cavitation

[recloosetrav]

Thanks. Im pretty new to the balancing thing so i'm probably going to get someone at my LHS to do it. Do you like the two blade better than three?

[6S HYDRO]

yes

[egneg]

If you choose the Octura props get them detongued as well.

[recloosetrav]

Cool thanks for all the advice.

[recloosetrav]

If I want to get a carbon prop what is a good choice?

[motoxbob11]

CF45 with the stock motor works really well.

[recloosetrav]

Yeah I think I'm going to get one to see how it goes. I finally have a little money in the bank to upgrade and the first things are prop cooling system and hardware. I've heard from my lhs that they make a rudder with two inlets for the water pickup. He said to go that way because he thinks if I hook a water pickup to the trim plates it would cause drag. But I've seen a lot of other people doing it. Also I would like to get a octura x642 but want it sharpend and balanced but offshore says they are out of stock. Is that right?

[motoxbob11]

You don't need a new rudder the stock one flows fine. An OSE cooling jacket would be a big plus if you want to buy something. Also adjustable trim tabs from OSE are very nice. Sharpened and balanced props are expensive. Start with a CF45 and go from there.

[recloosetrav]

Cool. I've also. Have heard of guys using a cf 48.

[motoxbob11]

You can try a CF48 but watch the temps. I found that for my boat the best combo of run time and speed and cool temps was with the CF45. A Grim 42x55 is a good choice also but there you go again with the balancing. Right now I use a UL-1 motor and a 42x55 prop and it works just great.

[scooterP]

I'm running the Grim 42x55 and did the balancing, sharpening, and polishing myself. I enjoy doing that sort of thing anyway. What a vast improvement over the stock prop. I also have the a CF prop of the same size to see how it performed before I made the metal commitment.

I don't have a temp gage, but my system wasn't passing the 5 second rule on temperature while using the 42.55 prop with 2s 5000mah lipo packs. I did my cooling changes in stages. First I opened up the hole a little in the rudder because it looked like it had a little flashing over the opening. Flow seemed ok, but not great....and pratically non existent while turning left.

I then replaced the stock cooling line with some larger id tygon that I picked up at the local lawn mower shop. Seemed better, but motor still running too hot....or at least it felt that way to me. During this time I also went ahead and drilled out the filler that had been used to close the bottom hole in the rudder and then I made a little pickup to go into that hole. Flow was much improved then and it didn't matter which way the boat was turning, it would always have flow.

I still thought that the motor was maybe a little too hot even with all the changes, so I thought I would change out the way the water was being routed. I put a "T" connection in where the water enters the hull and split the flow to run seperately for the ESC and motor. After the water passes the motor and ESC it comes back together in a "Y" connector and then exits out of the hull. I saw a very noticable improvement in the cooling then and flow was very good in my opinion. I did lastly put on the OSE cooling jacket and saw further improvement in temps.

That's all for my mods.... I may have seen acceptable results just by changing the water jacket and tubing, but this is my first boat and I'm really enjoying going through the learning process. I haven't put it on GPS yet, but it "looks" like it is in the low 40's range based on time and distance measurement.

[domwilson]

Do you have pics of your mods? It would be interesting to see how you did it.
Thanks.

[785boats]

Here's another cooling tip.
If you take out the ESC you will probably find that the cooling plates arch away from the ESC in the middle & are not making contact. If this is so, remove the plates & bend them slightly in the opposite direction. Then smear a thin layer of heat transfer paste on all cooling plate surfaces that come in contact with the ESC & reinstall the plates. Don't over tighten the screws.
We found that the temps on the ESC dropped around 7- 10 degrees after doing this.
Even if the plates are making good contact take them off & use the paste.
I think you can get it from your local Radio Shack over there in the States.
All the best.
Paul.

[recloosetrav]

Also if I buy the OSE cooling jacket do I have to replace the stock cooling hose? And if i do will it fit to the stock through hull on the side of the boat?

[jlr3rd1]

two blade props i was told was faster , but 3 blade s are more stabile because two blades are always in the water instead of one?

[recloosetrav]

What is the best way to open up the water inlet hole on the rudder?

[jlr3rd1]

i used a drill and small bit , be carefull its very thin and easy to drill thru! :)

[6S HYDRO]

I put another slit in on the other side with a dremel cutting wheel, worked perfect. Now i get more water when i am going strait.

[6S HYDRO]

Black super permanent marker covers up the marks nice.

[scooterP]

Do you have pics of your mods? It would be interesting to see how you did it.
Thanks.

I'll get some pics as soon as I have a decient camera available. I had taken some with my phone, but they look terrible, and I have since made "improvements" to my setup. The camera pics are in my gallery........keep in mind that I like hot glue....

[Eodman]

If you have a couple of sharp bits - 1 slightly larger than the other you can turn the bits by hand that way you don't screw the rudder up!

Lets face it my hands aren't as steady as they once were!