quick battery disconnect

[bustitup]

on the exterior of the hull..anyone got any pics on what hardware they used to accomplish this

or any disadvantage to doing this?

[kevinlew211]

I have a same question, why they builded power connector outside the hull, maybe when the boat flip, its will automaticlly disconnecting them by impact??

[Raydee]

No its just a safety loop. If something happens just grap the loop and pull to disconnect all battery power. Its actually a great idea and I thought about doing it myself.

[bustitup]

I have a same question, why they builded power connector outside the hull, maybe when the boat flip, its will automaticlly disconnecting them by impact??

lol....yes you see your boat running flat out and then you see smoke pouring off it........ its faster to just pull that quick disconnect wire then it is to try to rip the top off with all the hatch tape....a few seconds might save your hull
but I want to see the harware involved short of just running 10gauge wire out of the hull

[kevinlew211]

So...its like a Main power switch from outside only, if so i dont think its worth for me to add more wires and headache plus i dont think its will help much since you need just 5 secs to untape.

[sailr]

You see it on all the boats in Europe. I think it's a NAVIGA rule. They just have a wire coming up through the deck with a bullet connector on it and the mating connector coming through the deck a short distance away. It makes sense. You can tape up the boat and then when your heat is called, all you have to do is plug it in. I guess it can either be the negative or postive side. Not sure which is preferred or if it matters. It simply breaks the circuit.

[paulwilliams]

Try this:

http://www.fastelectrics.net/isolation_loop.php

[Heath M]

Our rules here in OZ say we must use them, which is a great idea. Makes so much easier for testing props to just connect the extenal wire. All we use is bullet plugs on form a loop between the battery power leads. I don't have any pics right now, but could get some later if you like.

Heath

[Bill-SOCAL]

For lower amp set ups this works nicely. I am using the 60amp version in a 10S pattern airplane:

http://shop.rc-electronic.com/e-vend...11&c=764&p=764

HKM USA sells them over here:

http://www.hkm-models.com/Emcotec.html

[sailr]

Interesting device but pricey. I'm surprised the 60A version will stand up to 10S setup. I suspect if you're using 10S, you're at least at 5,000mAh? That has the potential to produce a 185A spark! If you're running 2P, you double the potential of the spark.

I can see the guys with the $5,000 IMAC birds using this though. It's really cool. Not sure how well the outside 'switch' would hold up to water. Very cool device though! Thanks for sharing!

For lower amp set ups this works nicely. I am using the 60amp version in a 10S pattern airplane:

http://shop.rc-electronic.com/e-vend...11&c=764&p=764

HKM USA sells them over here:

http://www.hkm-models.com/Emcotec.html

[sailr]

Perfect. That's what I was trying to describe. Thanks!

Try this:

http://www.fastelectrics.net/isolation_loop.php

[Bill-SOCAL]

Interesting device but pricey. I'm surprised the 60A version will stand up to 10S setup. I suspect if you're using 10S, you're at least at 5,000mAh? That has the potential to produce a 185A spark! If you're running 2P, you double the potential of the spark.

I can see the guys with the $5,000 IMAC birds using this though. It's really cool. Not sure how well the outside 'switch' would hold up to water. Very cool device though! Thanks for sharing!

It is primarily designed for aircraft use. My pattern plane, as do most electric pattern planes, runs on 10S1P set up with packs between 5,000 and 5,350 mAh. Some guys go down as low as 4,800 mAh packs, but that really cuts it close for sequence flying.

It does not produce a spark at all. Everything is dead until you remove the magnet from the magnetic switch. As far as I know I am the only one using one of these right now. Popular in Europe, but not so much here. Very few guys use safety plugs of any kind in planes. I've threads on forums about how to solve the "issue" of the prop turning over suddenly when you turn off the RX with the packs connected, etc.

[bonewar]

For lower amp set ups this works nicely. I am using the 60amp version in a 10S pattern airplane:

http://shop.rc-electronic.com/e-vend...11&c=764&p=764

HKM USA sells them over here:

http://www.hkm-models.com/Emcotec.html

Bill the emoctec switches are great , I've been running them in my twin MARITIMO for a while now . I've got the 120 amp versions (2) both switches have seen a little water (inside hull) and they are still going strong . On the outside of the hull (switch) i cover them with a little tape ( no problem). They are very easy to use and set up. I did not like the wire safety loop look on the hull , and the switch almost looks like a fuel cap. AWESOME!!!! BONEWAR

[Bill-SOCAL]

I like them a lot myself, just have not used one in a boat yet. I did get a couple of the magnetically actuated ON/OFF switches to use in my gas boats.

Actually a 120 amp on each side of a 2P set up is 240 amps continuous and 480 amps spike!! That should handle it!!

There is also a very small pin switch that you can use as well.

http://www.hkm-models.com/Emcotec%20Switches.html

I've got a couple of those as well. Very neat and tidy.

BTW - you have the 60 amp version, there is one that is rated at 120/240 as well.

[paulwilliams]

For lower amp set ups this works nicely. I am using the 60amp version in a 10S pattern airplane:

http://shop.rc-electronic.com/e-vend...11&c=764&p=764

A neat device, but no good if you're looking for something that physically cuts the power loop, and in Europe at least, that is the requirement in the rulebook for Naviga and for most other non-Naviga racing afaik. Rules aside, I fit isolators to all my boats, purely for peace of mind when swapping props.

Paul

[Apples1]

Take a look at my pics of my cf rigger on swap shop, it has a 8mm safety loop on the deck, great idea for "other" people retriving you boat.