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Thread: My rebuilt UL1

  1. #1
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    Default My rebuilt UL1

    I haven't run since replacing the cap yet but I blew the cap and have replaced it with these new ones. I am also using a Fullers strut, Hughey cable, and octura collet. I didn't take a pic but there is an air damn under the boat as well made from balsa that I coated in epoxy and attached with double sided tape. Hoprfully I will be able to see the water flow from the discharge better with the brass tube I added. Still no leak from water jacket and no stress cracks. Knock on wood.




  2. #2
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    Now it will be easier to see the water exiting stern. How did you fix your ESC? Does it work like new now?

  3. #3
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    I just replaced the blown cap. Brian Buass told me how to do this. It works fine on the bench but has been too windy to throw in the water. I'll post when I try it to let everyone know.
    Alvin

  4. #4
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    Could you post a "How to" thread on replacing a blown capacitor? I'm sure many of us UL-1 owners might find that very helpful.

    It looks like you had a fire in the hull based on the pics. What happened?

  5. #5
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    Y'all must have better eyes than me to see water coming out this hauling boat! I don't see why it matters if ya can see it, as long as she's running cool?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt. Crash View Post
    Y'all must have better eyes than me to see water coming out this hauling boat! I don't see why it matters if ya can see it, as long as she's running cool?
    Who peed in your Corn Flakes Capt. Crash?


    ....................

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Who peed in your Corn Flakes Capt. Crash?


    ....................

    Hey I wasn't meaning it ugly! I was just wondering why you need to see the water jet?

  8. #8
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    Like all water cooled boats it's just good to know that water cooling system is operating correctly. Using the 45 degree bend just allows you to see it better.


    ........

  9. #9
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    I'm all for functionality, but I also like clean looks. If I could get rid of the ugly external tubing hanging off the back of this boat I would. My cracker box boat has the cooling intake and outake on the bottom of the hull. Works just fine and looks great cause ya can't see it.

  10. #10
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    just curious what caused the ESC to fry in the first place.

  11. #11
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    Too large of a prop! Not that the prop was too big but I ran it longer than the esc could handle. It was an m645. It looked awesome though. Too bad I forgot to start timer on the GPS. The fire was from the Etti ESC I tried afterwards.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
    Too large of a prop! Not that the prop was too big but I ran it longer than the esc could handle. It was an m645. It looked awesome though. Too bad I forgot to start timer on the GPS. The fire was from the Etti ESC I tried afterwards.

    I cooked my ESC with an X645 detunged and the boat basically popped a wheelie across the water and it was pretty awesome. Im going to hook up a 120 amp controller and try it again, see what happens. What was your amp rating on your ETTI? I may rethink the X645 if it's going to burn up a new controller.

  13. #13
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    Dude my etti was the 150 non bec and it didn't last 4 minutes. I would try a xl motor with the 120, then you should be safe.

  14. #14
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    Here's a neat chart written by Brian Buaas for Castle. I think this chart is for Lipo's with lower 20c rating. The Fiago motors may or may not allow smaller battery sizes?
    http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo..._boat_apps.pdf


    .................................

  15. #15
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    UPDATE!!!!!
    Got to run the beast today. Cap upgrade worked great. Ran about 2 min. with stock prop @ 41.7 on GPS. Then I swapped props and ran another 2min with a (I think)38x55 2 blade Grim racer @ 43.9mph. I have strut depth @ 1and a 16th with 1deg. neg. and air dam. 2 thunderpower 4s 3850mah in parallel.




    Boat is nose heavy sitting in the water with lipo's. Had to punch it to get on plane. Will put gps in rear next time.

    VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfDPIfcY43Q

    Oh yeah and I can see the water coming out better and temps were as follows
    ESC 114
    Caps 120
    Motor 130
    Batts 106
    Time for a more aggressive prop!

  16. #16
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    i'd leave the gps in the front. it's in the nature of a hydro to have to punch it to get it on plane. if the cg is too far back it'll start chine walking pretty badly. looks good in the vids man!! try out the octura 440/3, i was getting about 47mph with that one and hanging real tight corners wot.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumdog View Post
    i'd leave the gps in the front. it's in the nature of a hydro to have to punch it to get it on plane. if the cg is too far back it'll start chine walking pretty badly. looks good in the vids man!! try out the octura 440/3, i was getting about 47mph with that one and hanging real tight corners wot.
    I have an 437/3 and an 537/3. Would these be safe to try?

  18. #18
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    Nice Vid! Nice battery choice too. Those should pack alot of wallup

    Try and get a temp reading on the solder joint where the parallel meets the ESC leads. Just curious what you're getting after a good 3 minute WOT run.

  19. #19
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    Alvin, Try using just one of your 4s packs mounted on the left hand side of UL-1. Lighter weight may make you faster. Adjust your turn fin slightly upwards so boat will not be loose in the turns. I run 50mph without use of airdam.

    Here's my setup:
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=7539


    ...

  20. #20
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    2nd run specs
    Prop octura y537/3
    run time 3min 40sec
    total distance traveled 1.71 mi.
    MPH on gps 46.4
    Temps
    Motor 125
    esc and caps 109
    lipos 96
    traxxas connectors 86
    Temp @ parallel connection 94
    When I put my batteries on charge they were @ 15.5v and when thay finished they had taken 1534mah
    What does this number mean anyway? (taken 1534mah)

    Thanks,
    Alvin

  21. #21
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    Alvin,

    How does it handle coming out of the corners with that setup?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    Alvin,

    How does it handle coming out of the corners with that setup?
    Not sure how to answer that. I an not an experienced driver at all and have nothing to compare it to cause this is my only hydro ever. I'll try to get you a video this week with the same setup. Maybe you can look at it and give me some advice.
    Thanks,
    Alvin

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
    Not sure how to answer that. I an not an experienced driver at all and have nothing to compare it to cause this is my only hydro ever. I'll try to get you a video this week with the same setup. Maybe you can look at it and give me some advice.
    Thanks,
    Alvin
    Im also new to Hydros so perhaps the blind leading the blind I was curious to know how that prop handled the turns and excelled out of the turns. My m440 was a great prop in the straights, not so much coming out of the turns. My L38X55 however was great for both but temps were higher. I was just curious if you had noticed any of the above with your 537/3 or your 437/3.
    Last edited by jingalls007; 05-12-2009 at 11:31 AM.

  24. #24
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    Jingalls, I have tried a 437/3 and liked it a bit more than the m440..
    I still need to try a L38x55 but you say your temps were a bit higher..

  25. #25
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    how the hell did you burn up an etti 150 in a ul-1?!?!

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post
    Jingalls, I have tried a 437/3 and liked it a bit more than the m440..
    I still need to try a L38x55 but you say your temps were a bit higher..
    temps were higher in the 38X55 but still not hot enough to burn anything up. I ran for 10 minutes as i do all of my runs.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumdog View Post
    how the hell did you burn up an etti 150 in a ul-1?!?!
    I am pretty sure I had a short somewhere. Be careful of the Etti's I believe it was the wire going to the receiver. From the factory it it tie strapped to the battery wire and runs between the caps. The wire was burnt in that area, I should have caught it but didn't. Steven and Etti have great support. The esc and extra cap board were replaced in about 3 weeks.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    Alvin,

    How does it handle coming out of the corners with that setup?
    Video with y537/3 I am not an experienced driver but this prop is fast and fun 47mph.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xnqdq8NkyM

  29. #29
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    Ran this morning with a x437/3. It was far too windy to give a fair comparison but I can say this. On GPS it ran 42.1 and I ran for 8 minutes and still had battery to burn. Even when it is calm the boat wobbles side to side in long straights. How should I adjust my rudder and turn fin to help?
    Thanks,
    Alvin

  30. #30
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    First I would lower the strut to 1 1/8" - 1 3/16". Then turnfin should be angled UPWARD slightly against setup board edge (hull resting on sponsons and bottom of strut). Can you turn your lipos cross ways? This will move COG more forward. I like the Grimracer L40 x 57/3 prop best, but it is a little tricky to sharpen and balance. While sharpening prop I wear a cheap pair of strong reading glasses ($5.00 @ Walmart) to help see LOTS better. You should see 49mph with the above setup and boat will also be a little more stable. IMO air dam is not needed at these speeds.

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