49.9mph Using M440 Octura

[detox]

Today using Grimracer L40 x 57 my UL-1 went 48.9 mph and boat handled perfect with no chine walk and no cavitation that I noticed.
Grimracer L38 x 55 was about the same speed as L40 x 57 and boat handled verywell.
Grimracer L38 x 63 too much chine walk
Octura 2140/3 too much stern bouncing, chine walk, and slower
Octura V940/3 too much stern bouncing, chine walk, and slower
Octura m440 went 49.9 mph and boat handled verygood (my favorite prop so far... motor temp 119, esc 93, batteries 115)

Al testing was done with strut set 1 1/8" below hull and turn fin was angled upwards slightly according to setup board. My new G3 Hyperion 2s 25c 5000mah packs were faster than my older Flightpower 2s 25c 4900mah packs (new packs are allways faster). Jeff Wohlt .078" wire drive and custom .078" OSE Octura collet worked perfectly. I will try to get video soon.

God I love the UL-1! Turn fin area has no cracks either. Throttle was held wide open in turns!

[EPower]

Today using Grimracer L40 x 57 my UL-1 went 48.9 mph and boat handled perfect with no chine walk and no cavitation that I noticed.
Grimracer L38 x 55 was about the same speed as L40 x 57 and boat handled verywell.
Grimracer L38 x 63 too much chine walk
Octura 2140/3 too much stern bouncing, chine walk, and slower
Octura V940/3 too much stern bouncing, chine walk, and slower
Octura m440 went 49.9 mph and boat handled verygood (my favorite prop so far... motor temp 119, esc 93, batteries 115)

Al testing was done with strut set 1 1/8" below hull and turn fin was angled upwards slightly according to setup board. My new Hyperion 2s 25c 5000mah packs were faster than my older Flightpower 2s 25c 4900mah packs. Jeff Wohlt .078" wire drive and custom .078" OSE Octura collet worked perfectly. I will try to get video soon.

God I love the UL-1! Turn fin area has no cracks either. Throttle was held wide open in turns!

How do you like your new batteries are they up to your expectations

[detox]

So far so good...I ran them all the way down to the Low Voltage Cutoff. Boat never slowed down before hitting LVC, but stuttered then died very quickly on pond. The Flightpower batteries did slow down more noticably before hitting LVC.

[LuckyDuc]

Nice write up on the props. I may order a M440 to test with for a heat prop. I wonder how much the results would differ between the stock flex cable and the wire drive setup you tested with?

[detox]

The UL-1 Motor loves to spin high so I am sure the .078" wire helps free up some RPM's. I may test stock cable vs. piano wire next.

[jingalls007]

thanks again for sharing this info. I put a .150 hughey flex in mine with an Octura Collet, bad idea, collet didn't grab flex shaft and boat didn't move. Put back stock shaft and collet, no problems. I will order my M440 this week.

[Fluid]

Why was that a "bad idea"? The Octura flexhexes work great, apparently there is something wrong with your parts. Are you certain the cable is 0.150"? Is the flexhex for 0.187" cable? Did you put anti-seize on the collet threads and cone?



.

[jingalls007]

Flex hex for 5mm to .150, same as flex shaft at .150. I may have had the flex hex to fat down on the drive shaft of the motor so the flex shaft may have not been inserted far enough in the hex flex to really hold it tight.?

[detox]

Collet needs to be TIGHT, but not overly tight. Tighten until you poot. If you crap you went too far.


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[detox]

I puchased a pair of $5.00 extra strong +3.00 reading glasses from Walmart to help see LOTS better while sharpening all my props.

Here's some good sharpening instructions:
http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/acces...op-tuning.html

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[detox]

Today my UL-1 went 50.2mph using the Grimracer L40 x 57/3 prop. Water conditions were smooth as glass with a very slight wind chop here and there. This Grimracer prop is now my favorite because it handles ruff water better than two blade prop. Mike knew what he was doing when he designed this prop for the stock UL-1.

More attention to detail during sharpening should make prop faster. Any ideas?

[Capt. Crash]

I got 50.0mph out of my old dull 40X57/3 this weekend too.

[detox]

I converted my UL-1 batteries over to Castle's 6.5 bullet connectors. I am using 7/16"OD x 5/16"ID clear Vinyl tubing as an insulator (purchased at Homedepot). I also replaced just the factory male motor connectors using Castle's 4mm male bullets.

[LuckyDuc]

Did you notice that your connectors were building heat?

[jingalls007]

Good idea!! I've noticed my deans getting a little warm as well.

[detox]

Did you notice that your connectors were building heat?

Yes...Plus my Brushless Traxxas Emaxx uses the 6.5 bullets also.

[detox]

Bullets are more troublsome to handle, but well worth it sometimes.


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[jingalls007]

soo, which is your favorite prop now? Is it the 40x57 or the M440?

[detox]

I like the L40 x 57 because I think it handles slightly better crossing wakes, but both are fast.

[Capt. Crash]

Anyone detounged the 40X57 and try getting on plane yet?

[detox]

Thanks to Alvinsmith75 recent post https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=7630 I repaired my old damaged esc by soldering on a new capacitor (original capacitor failed). I remove the old capacitor then coated end of ESC using liquid electrical tape. Then I soldered on new capacitor to battery leads (yes there is a positive and negative side to a capacitor). I got the new capacitor from work so I am not sure if they make this version anymore (2000uf 25v).

I think these will work also
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...kqUyH0XnouY%3d

[detox]

BTW...before a run be sure to tape down the Nose Canopy also. My Nose Piece flew off after hitting some rough chop. Nose piece floated as designed then I retrieved it.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVXR3&P=Z

[alvinsmith75]

Awesome! Glad it worked for you.
Caps were .90cents each. Sure beats buying a new ESC. Thanks Brian B.

[Brushless55]

Thanks to Alvinsmith75 recent post https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=7630 I repaired my old damaged esc by soldering on a new capacitor (original capacitor failed). I remove the old capacitor then coated end of ESC using liquid electrical tape. Then I soldered on new capacitor to battery leads (yes there is a positive and negative side to a capacitor). I got the new capacitor from work so I am not sure if they make this version anymore (2000uf 25v).

I think these will work also
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...kqUyH0XnouY%3d

What does the cap do? and do we need a special kind of cap?

[longballlumber]

Below is the cap that I added to my speed control. The cap helps smooth out voltage spikes the controller can see at times. I woulds say YES to you second question. I doesn't need to be "special" but it does need to be speced out correctly... Again, I have been using the below cap with out any problems.

http://www.newark.com/rubycon/25zlh1...questid=246709

[detox]

Some say the Rubycon capacitors are the best. Longballlumbers choice (Rubycon 1500uf 25v) is a verygood one.

..........

[Brushless55]

Thanks, does this go in between the battery and esc?

[detox]

Thanks, does this go in between the battery and esc?

Yes...Solder negetive side of capacitor/capacitors to negetive battery wire and positive side of capacitor to positive battery wire. You can coat exposed wire using liquid electrical coating. This .56 cent cap fix beats spending another $90.00 for new UL-1 esc.

...

[longballlumber]

Adding a cap to any controller is a small price to pay...

[Brushless55]

Yes...Solder negetive side of capacitor/capacitors to negetive battery wire and positive side of capacitor to positive battery wire. You can coat exposed wire using liquid electrical coating. This .56 cent cap fix beats spending another $90.00 for new UL-1 esc.

...

Awesome!
It this what usualy goes on the esc? or causes it to fail?
and can you add extra on a good working esc?