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Thread: Feigao 540XL in UL-1 !

  1. #31
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    Now, here is the hot setup.....a Nue 1515/1Y/S, Castle Creations 240LV, 4S, dual water pickup rudder, JW .078" wire drive..Grim 40x57/3, under-propped again (having a real hard time understanding and choosing the right prop) Cavatates at first, then when she hooks up, look out, starts dancing and chine walking...i'm going to air dam her today and eagle tree the speed...BTW, the dual water pickups are amazing,,after running hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh batteries, the esc and motor aren't even warm to the touch...i think i hit a home run on the rudder setup.....
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  2. #32
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    now this is an even better setup: Nue 1515/1Y/S, 4S, CC 240LV, JW .078" wire drive (I'll never go flex again), custom dual water pickup, under-propped again with a 40x57/3 Grim (still don't know what to use for a prop)..I think I hit a home-run with the dual water rudder design, when i run this hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh, the motor and ESC aren't even warm to the touch..Today I will be installing an air dam and the eagle tree to check speeds
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  3. #33
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    Sorry, same boat, double post....

  4. #34
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    Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop then hold on. You will need to add more weight in front of the hull to reduce chine walk.


    ...

  5. #35
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    If that is a Etti 2mm coupler it could slip. Did oyu get that from me? It looks differnt than an Etti. . A person can rough the wire up a bit to help but let me know if it does and I will get you something else.

    Just check the wire and see if it is shiney after running some laps and that will tell you. You really do not need the twin thrust bearing on that. It could be causing some drag for you at the strut.

    Nice friggin ride buddy!

  6. #36
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    Cool

    BTW, the dual water pickups are amazing,,after running hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh batteries, the esc and motor aren't even warm to the touch...i think i hit a home run on the rudder setup.....
    Actually your motor and ESC are cool because you are under-propped and the boat is running so loose. All the rudder does is supply water (which is pretty cold this time of year); it does not take much to cool a motor pulling low amps. With a larger prop and warm pond water your results may vary.

    BTW, the thrust bearing on the strut is a bad idea. First, because it is larger than the strut it will cause a lot of drag and prop cavitation. Even worse, when the flex cable winds up it shortens, putting the whole cable in a bind adding drag and eventually pulling the strut out of alignment. Take the thrust at the motor mount and be certain to leave a gap equal to the cable diameter between the drive dog and the strut.



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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncornacchi View Post

    Here is my UL1 with a 540 7XL, Etti 150, JW wire drive, custom dual water pickup rudder a friend makes for me. Boat is under-propped, running a grim 40x57
    What's your strut depth on this setup?
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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncornacchi View Post
    [QUO?

    Here is my UL1 with a 540 7XL, Etti 150, JW wire drive, custom dual water pickup rudder a friend makes for me. Boat is under-propped, running a grim 40x57
    you think the boat is under propped with the 40x57?
    what are you going to try next, and have you put a gps in it to see how fast?
    Last edited by Brushless55; 03-21-2010 at 01:33 AM.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop then hold on. You will need to add more weight in front of the hull to reduce chine walk.

    ...
    You had a AoA build thread a little while back to help reduce the chine walk. I did the battery splaying mod that properchopper mentioned to my ul. It really reduced the chine walk, but speed really suffered. I am going to have to figure something out with the 7xl because the chine walk is only going to get worse.
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  10. #40
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    He is running a wire drive. Contraction is virtually nothing. I still leave 1/8" in mine at the strut.

  11. #41
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    I set the strut depth to 1 1/16" and strut angle is neutral as possible. Too much? I will be using 2x 2s and 2x 4s lipo's with a 40x57/3. I'm thinking I may need to come down a little bit for the lighter 2s and maybe more depth for the 4s's, is this proper thinking?
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  12. #42
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    I have ran as much as 1 3/16" strut depth . Works well with everything. Reread your UL-1 instruction manual...IT HAS LOTS OF VALUABLE INFO.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    I have ran as much as 1 3/16" strut depth . Works well with everything. Reread your UL-1 instruction manual...IT HAS LOTS OF VALUABLE INFO.
    Yea I ran pretty deep with the stock set-up before. I just can't wait till get this thing in the water and start testing.
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  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    Yea I ran pretty deep with the stock set-up before. I just can't wait till get this thing in the water and start testing.
    I can't wait either man!
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  15. #45
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    Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop:: Thanks Detox, I'll grab these props and hope to get them tuned by Egneg. I also had written in my notes from this past winters posts were the 2047 or the M448...I'm still a newbie and still don't understand the whole prop setup dia/pitch/cupping magic....wish there were a simple comparison chart

  16. #46
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    COLOR="Red"]If that is a Etti 2mm coupler it could slip. Did oyu get that from me?[/COLOR]
    Jeff, That's your wire drive, I got the coupler from Steve...No slip, thanks for the tip...I have to say that your drives are Superior, I just can't get over how true it was and how smooth it sounds when you wind her up....Don't know if you noticed, but at the motor end of the shaft, I first inserted a copper reducing sleeve (inside fitting collar from a brass compression fitting taken apart bought at home depot) , glued on a rubber vacum cap, left stock teflon liner in place, grease packed entire shaft until it spit out the rubber cap with .078 hole, and slid your drive in...not a drop of water and no grease sling..[

  17. #47
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    BTW, the thrust bearing on the strut is a bad idea
    Fluid, I agree that the ftust bearing at strut was a silly idea, if I could have found a lesser diameter bearing, I would have kept it on, but right now, I thinks its' only adding to her chine walk problems. There's a bit of weight up front already (two crashes, lots of glass on sponsons) She's getting too much air, I'm gonna air dam her...Struts' been from 1" to 1-3/16", as you guys know, a 1/16" difference makes a huge change

  18. #48
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    Glad to hear you like the wire. Good mods also you did. I save all my rubber caps like that for the seal at the motor...or use shrink.

    I have some new struts coming that will be CNC and not cast. They will also have ceramic bearings in them. Not cheap but they will be the best out there and virtually no maintenance. The wire drives really benefit from bearing struts.

    I stopped using teflon but am thinking of getting more for the stock set ups for the UL1 stuffing tube. I still think it takes some of the wear and noise out of it and gives it a smoother run.

    I spun up my 8XL cat last night on 4S and only running a 062 wire but it has the double lock on it. Even just in brass she sounded good.....I know...never hold her WFO for long but I was testing the bearings in the strut. Smooth as could be. Hard not to let her wind up a bit. I was bad but what the heck.

    Running all 2.4 Tactic in my boats now...no more holes for the annteny.

    New 30C cells coming so can't wait to throw her in the water next week.

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncornacchi View Post
    Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop:: Thanks Detox, I'll grab these props and hope to get them tuned by Egneg. I also had written in my notes from this past winters posts were the 2047 or the M448...I'm still a newbie and still don't understand the whole prop setup dia/pitch/cupping magic....wish there were a simple comparison chart
    I am not too sure about the S15 working with your setup, but if it does hang on. Stay away from the 2047 if you do not know what you are doing. M445 is a tried and true prop for your combo.

    4s2p would be safer on esc than your 4s1p. The higher the discharge rate and mah the better


    ...

  20. #50
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    Maybe I could try a Medusa 3670 2300kv on 4s.
    I also have this motor lying around..
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  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    I am not too sure about the S15 working with your setup, but if it does hang on. Stay away from the 2047 if you do not know what you are doing. M445 is a tried and true prop for your combo.

    4s2p would be safer on esc than your 4s1p. The higher the discharge rate and mah the better


    ...
    Thanks for the info Detox, I've been on this site for over a year now, and there is a circle of few like you that, when they advise, you best listen.....I am going with the M445, and the 4S2P setup just might keep the nose down a bit.....Norm

  22. #52
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    Jeff, Could you let us know when those struts are in? Would love to try them..

  23. #53
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    I will let you know. Should have them in a couple days and then they go to machining for the bearings.

  24. #54
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    dang the inside of that thing looks like a power plant... sweeet! I bet that its not slow! any top speed info. referencing post #30

  25. #55
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    Well the weather wasn't on my side and neither was the lake, their was a lot of chop in the water but I got a test run in today and let me say OMG. This looks very VERY promising. Most of the run was at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle due to the weather and only ran for about 3 minutes before it caught wind flipped in air then landed right side up with the hatch half untaped.. After it flipped and landed I had no response from the boat with my radio. After me saying WTF for about 5 seconds it finally responded and I brought it in and it was full of water. I dried everything out and tested the electrics and everything looks like it survived crash. Video hopefully tomorrow, no gps yet but may be able to get radar gun speeds. I think the esc dropped offline for a second and it had to rearm, at least thats what I hope. The little bit of WOT i did have was a BLAST.
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  26. #56
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    Diesel, No lie, the same thing happened to the Blue UL-1 yesterday. Grabbed air, flipped, and the hatch tape peeled back a couple of inches. Peddle-boated out, when I got her open, just a little water, no worse than some sloppy setups...here's the stupid part: I saw a little condensation under the clear wrap on the castle 240 this morning B4 I left for work, so I blew some compressed air into both sides....and now when I try to arm, I get unfamiliar beeps and only rudder, no throttle...I think I may have forced the water deeper inside the CC240...I am so mad at myself...this thing was rocken....was hoping for an easy 60+ and probbablly had her close, but I wouldn't brag unless I had the EagleTree logging it..that was my next step.

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncornacchi View Post
    Diesel, No lie, the same thing happened to the Blue UL-1 yesterday. Grabbed air, flipped, and the hatch tape peeled back a couple of inches. Peddle-boated out, when I got her open, just a little water, no worse than some sloppy setups...here's the stupid part: I saw a little condensation under the clear wrap on the castle 240 this morning B4 I left for work, so I blew some compressed air into both sides....and now when I try to arm, I get unfamiliar beeps and only rudder, no throttle...I think I may have forced the water deeper inside the CC240...I am so mad at myself...this thing was rocken....was hoping for an easy 60+ and probbablly had her close, but I wouldn't brag unless I had the EagleTree logging it..that was my next step.
    I sprayed CFC Free contact cleaner all over the electrics and batteries after I dried them. It's a electrical contact cleaner that we use in the airlines on aircraft connectors that are exposed to the elements i.e. landing gear electrical connections when they get moisture/gear grease inside of them. Works like a champ. Man you got me thinking I should run back out to the shop and re check my esc even after I sprayed it. Matter of fact BRB...lol
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  28. #58
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    Yeah, I'm also going to try to clear all programming on the CC...at least I'm getting some beeps and its not DOA.....Kills me to buy a $200 esc and see it get all freaked out over a little moisture.....When I was building them both this winter, I was kinda comparing which was the better esc...I have to say, the Etti150 w/caps bank in orange boat is still working fine, I just dont see the Fieago overtaking the Nue in speed...I miss my blue UL already..

  29. #59
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    I just took the esc out of the boat and going to let it set out over night. I wasn't submerged or anything just a little wet so im praying it will be ok. Since it did respond a few second later and worked on the bench after I think it will be just fine. I hope your is OK hate to see your CC die. I just don't have the money for a CC or Etti esc at this time or a Neu motor for that matter. This is the esc I run and I have to admit with the program box I really really like this esc even though today was the first run

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  30. #60
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    great price on that esc, D!
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