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Thread: Prop Work

  1. #1
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    Default Prop Work

    PROP WORK

    I can sharpen, balance, detongue, and cup props in a variety of finishes to suit your needs. I will work with you on a one on one basis to deliver exactly what you need. My prices are fair and I ship priority mail all over the world unless other arrangements are made ahead of time. I have more pictures in my profile album under props and in the gallery.



    You can ask questions here or send me a PM if you like. Prices vary depending on the prop, size, number of blades, material, and all that you may want done to it. I am a premier PayPal verified member.

    Chuck Genge


    Edit: Photobucket did not allow my use of the Paypal verified logo.
    Last edited by egneg; 04-17-2009 at 05:32 AM.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  2. #2
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    I like the sound of this, I have a fair number of raw props and they ain't gettin sharper where they are. here is the list, how about a per prop and a group price for balance, sharpen and sport-grade polish (I am not a racer, nor will be soon)?

    X432
    X435
    X437/3
    X438
    X442 - would like to detongue
    X448
    Y535
    X637
    X640 - would like to detongue
    X646
    1932

    Thanks,
    Jesse

  3. #3
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    Default

    Do you harden props?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Do you harden props?
    I am working on it but I am still in the testing stages so hopefully in the near future I will be able to offer this as well.

    Chuck
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  5. #5
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    Default

    Powerful SAW boats will break and bend a non hardened prop. Here's a good post on prop hardening:
    Quote Originally Posted by raptor347 View Post
    I've done it a couple ways.

    #1. If you really want them HARD: Anneal them at 1225F for an hour and quench in water. Do all you prop work: sharpen, balance, thin, cup etc. Then 600F for 2 hours and turn off the kiln and just leave them to cool overnight. This yields very hard props, but you can no longer work them at all.

    #2. Just do the 600F step after yo work the prop. Still very hard, but you canbend them a little if you really need to.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Powerful SAW boats will break and bend a non hardened prop. Here's a good post on prop hardening:

    At the place I work they have heat treat ovens. They are heated to 820 C then quenched in oil. I think my mistake was to have them tempered after that which softened them up again. I will have another one run without the tempering and see how things go. I do thank you for the information as I will keep that in mind but I am limited to the processes that they have in place as they are run with steel gears.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  7. #7
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    DO you sell props as well as prop works? i need a couple

  8. #8
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    Sorry I am not a supplier I order them from someone just as you do.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  9. #9
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    Cheers, thought it was worth a shot...

  10. #10
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    Ive got a Prather Stainless 220 im going to need to get balanced and sharpened.
    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  11. #11
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    Sent of my shipment today, 12 props that I don't have time to work on. Thanks Chuck, I was waiting for somebody to offer this great service.

    Cheers,
    Jesse

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by z400 View Post
    Ive got a Prather Stainless 220 im going to need to get balanced and sharpened.
    I can do it and sent you a PM.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse J View Post
    Sent of my shipment today, 12 props that I don't have time to work on. Thanks Chuck, I was waiting for somebody to offer this great service.

    Cheers,
    Jesse

    I will let you know when they get here Jesse.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  14. #14
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    Just a recommendation here...

    Egneg (Chuck) does great work and is great to deal with! If you're thinking of trying some of his services, I highly recommend. Don't delay! While he's offering his valuable time, take advantage and I guarantee you won't be disappointed!
    IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

    MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

  15. #15
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    Not meant as critics , but : why do I never see the trailing-edge worked ?
    (the only person I know of doing so is Andy Brown)
    Don't they have to be very sharp aswell ?
    Lots of tuned props have rounded trailing edges, due to the polishing............

    Ps : I like the Octura 642 a lot ! , the edges on this one look great

  16. #16
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    I always sharpen the trailing edge as this is standard procedure. I guess that I should have mentioned it but it was an oversight on my part.Thanks for bringing that up Gerwin!
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  17. #17
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    Chuck (Evil Slade), what is your opinion on a highly polished finish??? As there seems to be no documented proof, pro or con?

    Douggie

  18. #18
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    My opinion is that it is personal preference since the of use of BL motors are now the mainstream. At 30,000 rpm and up I don't see how the finish can make that much of a difference unless you are racing where milliseconds count. As to any proven documentation I have not seen any. I asked the very same question some time back with no valid response. Although I have noticed that all the gas/nitro guys I have watched all have have polished props.

    Edit: After thinking about this a bit more I am sure that the rougher the finish the harder the motor/esc have to work to maintain the same rpm.
    Last edited by egneg; 04-28-2009 at 07:06 PM.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  19. #19
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    Chuck, stop thinking. The gas boys are old school like me and we say it worked for me back in 1969

    Douggie

  20. #20
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    Put a piece of glass next to a sheet of 600 grit paper. Sprits both with equal amounts of water. Now drag your finger across both and tell me in which case your finger moves easier. It depends on the application. Do you need the hole shot or do you need endurance.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by egneg View Post
    Put a piece of glass next to a sheet of 600 grit paper. Sprits both with equal amounts of water. Now drag your finger across both and tell me in which case your finger moves easier. It depends on the application. Do you need the hole shot or do you need endurance.
    There lies the Catch 22 question

    Douggie

  22. #22
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    May I ask what do you use as balancer?

    How much is the cost for
    a) X648 - sharpen-balance-detongue
    b) X447/3 - sharpen-balance-detongue
    Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
    http://www.rcfastboats.com/

  23. #23
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    I have 2, the Dubro Tru-Spin and the Kintec magnetic balancers. I use the tru-spin to start and finish with the kintec. As for the prices on the props that depends on whether you send them or if I buy them for you. So I need a bit more info first.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  24. #24
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    Ok, I will send them to you. The 648 is as bought, the 447/3 has a bit of sharpening and balancing but I'am not sure. You will know better. But for both of them, I want them detounged. Please also advise time required. Thanks
    Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
    http://www.rcfastboats.com/

  25. #25
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    Disar I sent you a PM>
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  26. #26
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    regarding polishing. There is a school of thought that NOT polished works better because there is less capillary action of the water to the prop (sticking). This is the same theory as roughing up the bottom of the hull so it doesn't "stick" to the water.

    I have no idea if it's valid to apply the same theory to props but worth some more discussion.
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

  27. #27
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    Hey Chuck, does it cost the customer (us) more if you buy them or if we buy/ship them to you? or is the only difference the cost of double shipping if we send to you?
    Thanks,
    J

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailr View Post
    regarding polishing. There is a school of thought that NOT polished works better because there is less capillary action of the water to the prop (sticking). This is the same theory as roughing up the bottom of the hull so it doesn't "stick" to the water.

    I have no idea if it's valid to apply the same theory to props but worth some more discussion.
    Jim, this question has come up many times and I recently asked for anyone who has documented proof for pro or con. No answer, it is still an interesting question, but as always there will be variables...water temperature, degree of polish or roughness..salt water or lake etc.

    Douggie

  29. #29
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    No doubt Douggie! One of my best friends doesn't polish his props and he holds some records and has been a consistent winner over the years. BUT he maybe could have done better with polished. who knows. He always said he balances and sharpens and leaves it at that and that he could never tell any difference if polished or not. He's been known on the scene since the 60's/70's. He just set the Scale Hydro record in Valdosta last week.

    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman View Post
    Jim, this question has come up many times and I recently asked for anyone who has documented proof for pro or con. No answer, it is still an interesting question, but as always there will be variables...water temperature, degree of polish or roughness..salt water or lake etc.

    Douggie
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

  30. #30
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    We may have a good answer once Egneg and I finally manage to have that meeting with my point of contact who has done props - full size for the military.
    IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

    MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

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