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Thread: Darin's ProBoat Miss Elam Race Prep

  1. #61
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    I know it's not very pretty, but this is the bracket I came up with for attaching the adjustable strut. It started out picking up the existing holes, but they just aren't aligned properely in this hull to make the bracket square-up with the transom, so I made new holes and tapped them for 4-40 button head screws. This allows me to rotate the plate around to get the bracket aligned correctly.

    I have another piece of angle stock, and if this works, I'll make a new one with fewer holes in it! This will work for now to prove the concept.

    I thought about just screwing to the transom, but it doesn't have enough structure to hold the screws, so this was a simpler method that shouldn't have involved making any new holes.

    Now I have a fully adjustable strut...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  2. #62
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    Just a quick update... no pics this time...

    The addition of the carbon fiber cloth in the sponson to add some rigidity to the turn fin area worked PEFECTLY... that area doesn't flex at ALL now. Pain in the butt to do, but well worth it...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  3. #63
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    I just got word from another guy in our club concerning the Elams... He and his son both got them, and were out running/testing. One of them flipped, and sunk. Apparently there isn't enough floatation in them.

    Interestingly enough, I had just ordered some of the 2-part foam this morning. Look for me to be adding this into the sponsons. The boat needs more forward weight anyhow, and also this will help to make it much more rigid up there...

    I'm working on a method to modify the hatch to seal it but still maintain the cool looks. It's going to still need to be taped on the outside, but should be easy to do and look good still.

    I'll try to post some pics by tomorrow if I make enough progress. It's almost there. This was going to be the last step, but it sounds like foaming things will be instead...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  4. #64
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    Oh man that sucks... I hope they get a replacement from Proboat.
    At least they are saving boats in the future....

    Darin, I was hoping for a few pics, I need my "fix" man!


    I don't think I ever asked you but, did you run the Elam prior to the mods?
    :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ub Hauled View Post
    Darin, I was hoping for a few pics, I need my "fix" man!


    I don't think I ever asked you but, did you run the Elam prior to the mods?
    Pix will come shortly. I just needed time to make some progress...

    I did NOT run this boat first, but I did run my previous one a bit. There are just some things on Hydros that you just KNOW need to be a certain way... And I'm not really changing anything in the general geometry of this boat, just "blueprinting" what was already designed into it.

    With the interesting conversation about the sponson angles on the other buildup thread, it will be interesting to see how this works, because it has a very different set of angles... In theory, it should be able to handle some decent speeds with stability and low fly-off risk, but we'll see... The two cannards up front are the variable I haven't measured out yet... But if they give too much lift, the quick application of a "Gurney" flap or other lift-killing device wouldn't be hard to add...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  6. #66
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    Darin I am going to fiberlay today to see if they have it and I knoe Tap Plastics has it for sure in quarts. don't buy too much it has a short shelf life

    Jim

    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    I just got word from another guy in our club concerning the Elams... He and his son both got them, and were out running/testing. One of them flipped, and sunk. Apparently there isn't enough floatation in them.

    Interestingly enough, I had just ordered some of the 2-part foam this morning. Look for me to be adding this into the sponsons. The boat needs more forward weight anyhow, and also this will help to make it much more rigid up there...

    I'm working on a method to modify the hatch to seal it but still maintain the cool looks. It's going to still need to be taped on the outside, but should be easy to do and look good still.

    I'll try to post some pics by tomorrow if I make enough progress. It's almost there. This was going to be the last step, but it sounds like foaming things will be instead...
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  7. #67
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    I am assuming you guys are using the NON expanding stuff... specially since there is no room for the excess to come out... right?!
    :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

  8. #68
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    I use the low expansion foam in all my boats. As long as you do small sections over a few days,,no problems!

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doby View Post
    I use the low expansion foam in all my boats. As long as you do small sections over a few days,,no problems!

    I bought the 2lbs density stuff, and will pour it in SMALL amounts into the sponsons with the transom up in the air... Just do a little at a time and see where it goes... Should be fine if done with care.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  10. #70
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    why is it that people don't like the non expandable stuff?
    do they soak? smell? not hard enough?
    :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ub Hauled View Post
    why is it that people don't like the non expandable stuff?
    do they soak? smell? not hard enough?
    I don't even know what it is... If it doesn't expand, I'm not sure I see the point... it has to be poured into the area, then the hope is that it will fill UP the area by expanding into the gaps, etc...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  12. #72
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    it is like a foamy liquid, it just does not expand... lemme see if I can find a link.
    :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

  13. #73
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    With the strut now mounted, I'm getting closer. It's time to turn the attention to keeping things DRY! That's a challenge on this hull, but I think I have a solution.

    First, I made a new subhatch to cover the radio box area. This won't seal anything, but it gives an extra layer of protection none-the-less.

    I used the factory hatch and some extra tape to make a pattern, then cut-out a G10 hatch cover.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  14. #74
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    To solve the problem of how to seal the hatch itself, I made some modifications that I think worked out great.

    First, I sealed the factory antenna hole by taping over the outside of it with electrical tape, then glassing and epoxying it on the inside.

    I sealed up the exhaust cone hole using a piece of fitted G10 sheet, glassed and epoxied into place from the inside.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  15. #75
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    The area under the stack has a pair of "gutters" to shed water away from the hatch area. These don't allow good taping, so I dammed them up and filled with Epoxy, then got them truely even with the deck using filler, with a thin layer of epoxy over the top to seal it...

    While I was waiting for the epoxy to dry, I also installed an new 4-40 steering rod and rubber boot....
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    Last edited by Darin Jordan; 03-14-2009 at 01:48 AM.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  16. #76
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    OK, this is the cool idea I had...

    To solve the issue of HOW to seal around the stack, my solution was to make the stack MOVABLE...

    SOOOOO... I got an aircraft aileron hinge, and mouted the back of the stack to the transom with the hinge.

    I marked the stack so that I could trim it to JUST touch the cowling, then sanded it down to fit.

    I used one of the magnets for the factory hatch and embedded it into the front original stack mounting hole. I used a 3/8" wood hole bit to drill down. There is a piece of foam or wood or ??? under the deck in the back, so if you are VERY careful, you can slowly drill it down to a depth where the magnet side of the latch is JUST below the deck.

    ON the stack, I modified the front mounting hole to accept the other halve of the magnetic latch, and epoxied it into place.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  17. #77
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    I used epoxy and a piece of electrical tape to glue it in place.

    Using some of the left over epoxy, I also glued a brass tube into the factory water line hole...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  18. #78
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    With everything all dry, I now have a hinged exhaust stack that can be moved out of the way for taping, and securely stays down afterward... Pretty slick in my opinion and very functional, while maintaining the look...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  19. #79
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    Sorry Darin, but I have to say this. THIS IS REDICULOUS! Sounds to me like Pro Boat really screwed this hull up. They need to redesign a new more simple hull.

  20. #80
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    With the hatch now sealable, all that's left is to do the finishing assembly and install the electronics...

    It's all ready to go. After my 2-part foam arrives, I will put that into the sponsons. In the meantime, I just have to dial in the radio and then get her wet. I'll let you all know how it does!

    Also, I didn't show it in any pics, but I trimmed out the forward two magnetic mounts.... You'll need every bit of extra space to fit Lipos in there...

    I have been able to fit a pair of Elite 30C 4500 2S1P packs in there. Any longer and they won't fit. One might be able to make them slightly thicker, but it's a TIGHT squeeze, and there is NO adjustment with the way the boat is setup. You could make them go backwards if you trimmed out the bulkhead, but you'd never want to do that. Any balance issues will have to be resolved with lead in the nose somewhere...
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    Last edited by Darin Jordan; 03-13-2009 at 11:47 PM.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  21. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    They need to redesign a new more simple hull.
    Ummm... Unless I'm missing something... I think that's what I just got done doing...

    You have to remember... this boat was NOT built for the racing crowd... It works fine for market it was intended...

    Now it will work fine for us racers as well...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  22. #82
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    When and where?

    Jim

    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    With the hatch now sealable, all that's left is to do the finishing assembly and install the electronics...

    It's all ready to go. After my 2-part foam arrives, I will put that into the sponsons. In the meantime, I just have to dial in the radio and then get her wet. I'll let you all know how it does!
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  23. #83
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    Jim,

    I'm not going to the practice race tomorrow, as I have to work at work, then come home and work on finishing up the bathroom remodel I'm doing...

    Probably won't be until the 28th...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  24. #84
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    Darin,

    I think my competition hull will include just the sponson and strut mods. The rest is your preference for keeping the insides dry. I'll concentrate on keeping the wet side down

    Andy
    Spektrum Development Team

  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyKunz View Post
    Darin,

    I think my competition hull will include just the sponson and strut mods. The rest is your preference for keeping the insides dry. I'll concentrate on keeping the wet side down

    Andy

    Just make sure you add FLOTATION! We had a guy in our club loose one of these last weekend with the stock setup... Hatch blew open, whole deal sunk right to the bottom...

    Oh, and by the way... Mine will stay dry, AND stay right-side-down...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  26. #86
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    Quick Update...

    I used 2lb density 2-part expanding foam in the sponsons and down the non-trips last night... Worked out well... I did 2-pours of 20cc volume (10cc part A / 10cc part B) into each sponson, then a 20cc pour down each non-trip... waiting about 15-minutes between pours for it to harden and fully expand... Seems to have worked out very well... the sponsons are solid now, and the additional foam in the non-trip area helps make that more rigid as well. I think this will help reinforce the seams as well as add much needed floatation...

    I have the boat completely ready to race, and will be racing it tomorrow (Saturday, March 28th) if the weather holds up. It's suppose to be COLD, RAINY, and "GUSTY", so we'll see how that goes...

    I have an EagleTree V3 onboard, with two temp probes (battery and motor) and an RPM sensor. If I can run it, we'll see what kind of data comes back. When time permits, I'm going to also see if I can get the airspeed sensor hooked up (maybe up in the scoop) and we'll see if I can get real speeds as well...

    Fully ready to race, with two 4500mah Elite 30C 2S1P packs and the EagleTree onboard, the weight is 5lbs 4.1oz...

    Hopefully we can run tomorrow and I can report back some useful data...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  27. #87
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    Darin how many heats of LSH would you usually run? I am not going to miss it if I get there around Noon am I?

    Jim
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  28. #88

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimClark View Post
    how many heats of LSH
    Forgive my ignorance, but what is "LSH"?

    Paul

  29. #89
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    Limited sport or spec Hydro
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  30. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimClark View Post
    Limited sport or spec Hydro
    Ok, a controlled formula then - restricted motor etc.?

    Paul

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