Mhz mystic 114 build

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

The C-AFK uses a hybrid cloth, of carbon with aramid (Kevlar) as it's main reinforcement. The CFK is all carbon. They use a glass layer into their gelcoat first.

Avoiding the big jobs still. Here are some lube-hose plugs I made Sunday:

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And, I met the owner of the boat. Painted her hair, and will try to do the rest of the face. She told me she will be driving the boat, but I don't know who will be the Throttle-man...

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[PlayerUnknown069]

The C-AFK uses a hybrid cloth, of carbon with aramid (Kevlar) as it's main reinforcement. The CFK is all carbon. They use a glass layer into their gelcoat first.

Avoiding the big jobs still. Here are some lube-hose plugs I made Sunday:

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And, I met the owner of the boat. Painted her hair, and will try to do the rest of the face. She told me she will be driving the boat, but I don't know who will be the Throttle-man...

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Damn now I kinda wish I went with C-AFK over the CFK just for the kevlar weave. My boat says FedEx label created on Friday but package has not been received by fedex. I have no patience.

Man those plugs look good, you glued a hose barb to them? I want to make some.

she is an independent woman and does not need a throttle man. She can do it all lol but if you insist I think she would prefer a throttle woman lol

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

kevlar is out-dated. No need for abrasion-resistance in the main reinforcing layer. As for bullet-proofing...nope. Once treated so resin will stick to it, no more stopping bullets. Hard to sand etc. Shock absorption cand be done with the resin percentage. You made a good a good choice with the carbon. I only chose the kev, for the astetics, but that changed...

Yup. Barb fittings glued into carbon tube.

Notice she'll add to the boat's bouyancy, with her ample "floatation". :)

[PlayerUnknown069]

So my Mystic has been stuck in customs clearance at my local fedex facility since Friday. Package went out for delivery on Friday and went right back to clearance in progress. Now come Monday we are back to clearance in progress. FedEx says MHZ in Germany needs to provide a toxicity report and some kind composition details.

I dont get it, the boat cleared US customs when it landed in Tennessee. What a rollercoasters of emotions. I ordered the boat in December.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Beauracracy. Too much of soft power abuse.

[PlayerUnknown069]

Beauracracy. Too much of soft power abuse.

I hope they dont think my boat is made out of cocaine. They are going to drill it full of holes for some nose sampling .

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Made some wee compression molds, and cooked up the straps to attach to the lowers. The lowers will be bonded in place in the near future.

Check'em:

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Continued:

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[PlayerUnknown069]

Those turned out great!

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

The first in the mold was 12-layers. Too thick, couldn't compress. #2 @ 10-layers was better, but also in the garbage. Your looking at #3 & #4. 8-layers worked out.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

While undertaking a bigger part of the construction; the hull/deck seam-reinforcer, I'm mucking with some scale details:

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

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[Dirk Jan]

Awesome carbon work, Thank you for sharing!

What weight or thickness weave did you use for these intakes in the last post? They seem quite small, and I know from experience that carbon weave is difficult to lay in such small parts.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-S911B met Tapatalk

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

6oz. 3k standard weave. 2-layer.

I used the tacky resin method to mush the cloth into the mould. Mix up some epoxy resin, let it cure to around what honey is, and smear it into the mold, ( so it won't seperate on the waxy surface). A little longer with the curing, then mash the cloth into it. Let dry while now and then mushing it down with yer finger. Then wet out and let that tacky-up for the following layer. There will be a few cosmetic issures in the surface, which will be remedied with prep work and clearcoating.

If I was to produce them, I would make compression molds, so as ther is no cosmetic re-finishing to do.

I've been eyeing up your laser-cut tunnel hull kit. Possibly my next boat...

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

The left one is ready for trimming, then a base will be put on like the pipes, and then clear-coated.

After joining, I scrub the part with a stiff wire brush, to open all the pinholes in the surface. Then resin-fill those pinholes, sand them down, and smear a coat of resin over the the whole thing. That is then 400-gritted, ready for paint.

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And then the right one...

[Alfa Spirit]

With the Hydra water jackets this makes a very nice combo, well done

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

With the Hydra water jackets this makes a very nice combo, well done

The motors came with jackets, but when I saw those castle ones...

[PlayerUnknown069]

Slow progress on mine.
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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Way more progress than me though. Looking clean in there.

Here's a tip for the tape at the end of your rudder cables. Go to the bicycle shop, and get genuine Shimano cable crimp ends. The shifter cable diameter ones. I say Shimano, because the non-shimano ones are thin-walled crap.

Or, if ya do the non-Shimano ones, they can come in colours. Then just glue them on instead of crimping.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Scoops attached to bases. Resin is applied inside, to run dow via miniscus flow, to make a fillet on the inside. A fillet will be applied to the outside later today; and with the other carbon detail parts, they will eventually get clear-coated.

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Here they are mocked up:

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[fweasel]

Amazing work.

[PlayerUnknown069]

Way more progress than me though. Looking clean in there.

Here's a tip for the tape at the end of your rudder cables. Go to the bicycle shop, and get genuine Shimano cable crimp ends. The shifter cable diameter ones. I say Shimano, because the non-shimano ones are thin-walled crap.

Or, if ya do the non-Shimano ones, they can come in colours. Then just glue them on instead of crimping.

You read my mind, I was already planning on hitting up a bike shop this weekend. Didn’t know Shimano ones were better, thank you.

[fweasel]

You read my mind, I was already planning on hitting up a bike shop this weekend. Didn’t know Shimano ones were better, thank you.

It's doesn't have to be Shimano, you're after that specific shape and fit. Bumble is right, they're way better. Think soup can sliding over an identical sized cylinder vs. a wool hat over your fist. They both stop the cable end from fraying, but one is a precision fit and looks like it too.

[Dirk Jan]

Great work on the air scoops. That hatch looks nice too, with the window frame.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-S911B met Tapatalk

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

I can't shrink down small enough to get inside the boat, to do a propper lamination to join the hull & deck.
So, I made the seam outside of the hull & deck.
Aluminum tape was used to lay-up against. A 2-layer, 6oz. carbon was used for the seam-fitting skins. These were then reinforced with 4-more layers.

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

The Alu tape removed, and acetone-wash to de-gum the areas where the tape was.
Then the outside of the ridgid seperate seam, will be sanded rough for secondary bonding.
It will bond into the hull first, then the rest of the fitting out of the components, floatation, bulkheads, etc. When all done, the deck will be bonded into place.

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If I produced mystic hulls, the seam engineering would be revised, to make joining the hull & deck easier for the techs joining the two, and the outcome would be far better than what is the standard now. Probably internal rubber bladder, to mash the reinforcement onto the hull & deck seam.

I donot blame the techs @ MHZ for shoddy work, I blame the moldseam engineering, that lead to the techs doing the best they can, with what they have.

[fweasel]

Wow, that's cool. So you used the hull as a mold to make your seam layup? Will it sit on the surface like a belt line? Will it get blended into the body lines with filler afterwards?

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Yes, it was molded of the inside of the hull & deck.

The edge of the seam piece will have a gentle rounded or champfered edge. It will go with my "Foot" theme, as you-all will see with my other pieces.

Here's a rendering:

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I might even add 2-layers on the outside of the seam too. Then It truely will be smash-proof.

[srislash]

Wow, that's cool. So you used the hull as a mold to make your seam layup? Will it sit on the surface like a belt line? Will it get blended into the body lines with filler afterwards?

A very interesting way of addressing the seam issue, right Ryan? Should be beautifully solid.
Great work Bumble

[fweasel]

A very interesting way of addressing the seam issue, right Ryan? Should be beautifully solid.
Great work Bumble

Indeed