Mhz mystic 114 build

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

What servo and servo horn setup are you planning on?
I see people saying the offset servo horn is best like the one from custom carbon fiber parts. Not who else sells one like that.

I don't trust the tiller-arm locations, that are not in-line with the pivot. Hence my making of the rudder blade grip.

I'm using a black aluminum fut25t servo horn.

Faux hydraulic rams will be used.

Countersunk bolts arrived. Rudder done:

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[fweasel]

It's best to keep everything linear and the attachment points inline with the pivot at both the rudder and servo. Makes life so much easier.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

I want flush fasteners on the rudder blade-grip, so I turned down some flanged nuts, to suit my tastes:

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[PlayerUnknown069]

Looks clean. Anyone know the spacing between the rudder pivot points on the stock mounts? MHZ does not specify and I want to order a servo and servo horn for it.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Do you mean the distance of the tiller-arm holes from pivot pin? If so, I will measure them tonight after work, then let ya know.

[PlayerUnknown069]

Do you mean the distance of the tiller-arm holes from pivot pin? If so, I will measure them tonight after work, then let ya know.

Correct, I see most in picture are using a small horn like this cheap Amazon one 3Pack ShareGoo Aluminum Alloy 25T Servo Horn Double Arm Steering Arms Compatible with Futaba Savox Power HD HSP MG995 Servos Motor 1/8 1/10 RC Car Buggies (Red) https://a.co/d/dIHTr1c

I just want to confirm before I go buying anything.

[fweasel]

I want flush fasteners on the rudder blade-grip, so I turned down some flanged nuts, to suit my tastes:

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Ha, I've never thought of doing that. Great Idea. What did you use to make your counter sink holes in the carbon? I used some cheap habor freight drill style bits for wood, but they dulled after a single hole. I need to find an aggressive cone shaped bit for my mill.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

One of my best tools. Carbide multi-fluted counter sinking bit. Made in Chine off of Ebay. It's now slightly dull after about 15-years of use.

I have it in a Hudy handle, and turn it by hand.

[Alfa Spirit]

What is this exactly ?

[fweasel]

What is this exactly ?

Scale replicas of engine exhaust headers

[PlayerUnknown069]

How’s the build coming along?

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

It's coming. Did some reinforcing in the hull & deck today. Thickening up stress-areas and bad lay-up sections. Rough areas were mudded, and will be sanded to make a refined surface, as well as feathering out of the seam edge. Then, 1-layer 6oz. carbon cloth will cover the entire inside.

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While the hull & deck are apart, I'll be rigging it. So much easier like that. Reminds me of my full scale boat building days, crane-lowering the engines in place etc.

Just had the angle-grinder out:

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Correct, I see most in picture are using a small horn like this cheap Amazon one 3Pack ShareGoo Aluminum Alloy 25T Servo Horn Double Arm Steering Arms Compatible with Futaba Savox Power HD HSP MG995 Servos Motor 1/8 1/10 RC Car Buggies (Red) https://a.co/d/dIHTr1c

I just want to confirm before I go buying anything.

I used these:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0C...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PM me with your address, and I'll mail one out to ya, if ya want.

[PlayerUnknown069]

I used these:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0C...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PM me with your address, and I'll mail one out to ya, if ya want.

I appreciate the offer but it would cost us more in shipping than me just ordering it on Amazon. Canada to South Florida isn’t cheap. I ask because I see most of the fancy mystic builds use the CCFP servo horn which looks nice. I want to avoid cable slack when in turns. Also Oxidean sells a cheaper version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/22545883823...mis&media=COPY
IMG_1774.jpg

[PlayerUnknown069]

It's coming. Did some reinforcing in the hull & deck today. Thickening up stress-areas and bad lay-up sections. Rough areas were mudded, and will be sanded to make a refined surface, as well as feathering out of the seam edge. Then, 1-layer 6oz. carbon cloth will cover the entire inside.

36.JPG 37.jpg

While the hull & deck are apart, I'll be rigging it. So much easier like that. Reminds me of my full scale boat building days, crane-lowering the engines in place etc.

Just had the angle-grinder out:

G.JPG

Hulls looking really good, you are invested at this point since you sliced it open. I see not short cuts being taken, you are doing the right thing. I really hope I don’t have a similar issue with my assembled 114. With a 3 month old baby I just don’t have the time to do that kind of work. I don’t like to half a** anything and I knew building a bare hull would just send me down the quest for perfection rabbit hole. Any free time I have needs to be spent on the water at this point in my life.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Make sure to at least, fill the rudder-mount area of the hull solid. Them 6-bolts will tear out of their poor laminate construction in that area. On mine, once the hull/deck is together again, metal tubes will go through for the bolts to crush against. Note the solidness of the rudder mount area in this pic.

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On a together hull/deck, one could pour a epoxy-resin / chopped-strand / graphite-powder sauce into it.

[PlayerUnknown069]

Make sure to at least, fill the rudder-mount area of the hull solid. Them 6-bolts will tear out of their poor laminate construction in that area. On mine, once the hull/deck is together again, metal tubes will go through for the bolts to crush against. Note the solidness of the rudder mount area in this pic.

38.jpg

On a together hull/deck, one could pour a epoxy-resin / chopped-strand / graphite-powder sauce into it.

What?! The transom rudder mount is hollow?! I was under the assumption those 6 bolts are in a solid mount or heavily reinforced carbon plates on the inside.. Yeah that’s a design flaw, at 100mph+ that will shear off in a flip. . Like you mentioned, in my rigger sponsons I use aluminum tube on the inside so the turn fin doesn’t crush the sponson. If I can get my hand in there, I can snug in some tube and pour epoxy in to solid mount all of that while still having the ability to remove the rudder mount.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

All carbon reinforced:

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

All bond-in parts will have a foot, for greater surface area.

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

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[PlayerUnknown069]

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Nice! I ordered the same. 2 XLX2’s. What motors are those?

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

They're the SSS 4092 2000kv motors, frome the OSE store.

[PlayerUnknown069]

They're the SSS 4092 2000kv motors, frome the OSE store.

Basically the same build, mine are Leopard 4092 2080kv with XLX2’s. I had Dasboata make me some custom props. Chris sent over some custom 1.8x3.25 2 blade props.

Did you see OSE is going to sell a CF mounting plate for the XLX2, might save you some time.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Nice.

Does this Dasboata Chris have a website?

I'll look on OSE store now. I love the convenience of this forum and store.

[PlayerUnknown069]

Nice.

Does this Dasboata Chris have a website?

I'll look on OSE store now. I love the convenience of this forum and store.

Dasboata is in these forums, been around for years. Many many people use his props, do a quick search. His name is Chris Hoffman. There isn’t much on his site http://www.dasboata.com/?i=1

I just email him my combo and tell him I want to go fast lol. His props get them Zondas into the 115mph+.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Right on. Thanx for the info.

"I just email him my combo and tell him I want to go fast."

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Finished up the mounting for the drives & trim-adjusters.

I was suppost to get pics of the stages, but forgot. So I made a vid showing what I do, to make the bolts thread into.

Bolts and items are waxed/pva'd, put in place, wrapped with uni-fiber around the threads and bits, filled with mud (resin, chopped-strand, graphite-pow, cabosil), to smooth out the shape, then capped with a layer of carbon.

Here's the hull with some resin, applied with a sponge for just a slight wetted look:

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And the vid:

https://www.brighteon.com/69aae1f6-e...5-db124be33265

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Spun'up some 6mm plate discs, stuck'em to some 2mm plate. Mounts for batteries and esc's done. ESC's will be stick in place with a blob of Permatex black silicone. Batteries will get foam pad under them for no slippage, and lashed down with the MHZ straps.

M4 holes in the plate go through all, for a painting jig to be bolted into the hull. Wanna save big time on paint jobs, help the painter out with the ability to easily move and secure the item being painted.

With All the composite construction of this boat, I decided to make a new pipe form myself too.

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[PlayerUnknown069]

Looking good! I was told my hull ships out this week, I will keep you posted.

[PlayerUnknown069]

What’s the difference between their c-afk and cfk hulls?