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Thread: Mhz mystic 114 build

  1. #1
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    Default Mhz mystic 114 build

    Hello gang. Gonna do a build thread on my new speedboat project.

    It's been around 25-years since I've had a powerboat. Last ones I had were a HydroSport Radioactive .21 tunnel, and an AC Magnum cat, with an OPS-67. Sold them as a youth, to pay for food.

    I am trying to scratch-build myself a new "Footy" sailboat to get back on the water, but it's taking too long. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...lf-a-new-footy

    So ordered a MHZ hull kit bundle.

    Around 25-years ago, prepping an octura prop was a joy. No longer. After this set of props, I will gladly pay for matched/ballance/polished/sharpend props.

    1.JPG

    More to come, once the hull kit arrives.

  2. #2
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    Yayy, a new build. Yeah matching a pair is a pain. I certainly don’t mind doing a single. What size props are those? 447?
    Last edited by srislash; 12-07-2023 at 09:12 AM.

  3. #3
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    Gonna start with x442's. Might even get some of those scale alu props to see if they last for fun-running.

    SAW has no interest with me, and coming from the last boat I ran (Footy sailboat, which are like controling a leaf blowing across a pond), anything faster than 10km will be a blast.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUMBLESPECIMOODA View Post
    Gonna start with x442's. Might even get some of those scale alu props to see if they last for fun-running.

    SAW has no interest with me, and coming from the last boat I ran (Footy sailboat, which are like controling a leaf blowing across a pond), anything faster than 10km will be a blast.
    I hear ya. I built my HPR 115 to run 7-8s and 120mph but in the end I run it on 4s so I don’t destroy it.


  5. #5
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    Nice vid.

    Props are almost done. Gotta make some profile imprints, to make sure the blades are all the same shape. Also, one hub is longer on one of the props, and the one prop weighs 1/2 a gram more that the other. I tell ya, the mold for the Octura X442r needs retooling. They should be all cnc stainless in my opinion... I just learned of Doctor Props...

    2B.jpg
    Last edited by BUMBLESPECIMOODA; 12-10-2023 at 11:47 AM.

  6. #6
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    Default Kit showed up

    Ya, their hand-lay-up skills don't exist. Amatures who don't know the concepts of basic lay-up; or, disgruntled workers, purposely doing sucky work.

    The canopy and the hull / deck lay-ups look good. The joining of the hull / deck is terrible.

    I have to cut the hull / deck in half, clean up the crap, and re-join it professionally.

    5.JPG 6.JPG 12.jpg 13.JPG

    Had to do this:

    7.JPG

    More to come when it's cut in half.

  7. #7
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    If you aren't going for all and out speed, do you really need to go through the effort of cutting the hull in half?

    I would press around the hull and make sure all of the carbon kevlar is saturated with resin, i've heard of them not using enough and some hulls being "soft" in areas.

    I only have a mystic 84 but it was laid up by non MHZ and it's a solid 130mph boat, F-ugly but strong & fast.
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

  8. #8
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    Oh ya. All will see what The "shoddyness" is when I cut it in half. The transom seam reinforcement was thrown in. Not even mashed-down with the brush, and not rollered-out (I don't even think their builders know what a hand-lay-up roller is. Using a light shows an area where there is no seam reinforcement over the gelcoat. But the worst is a massive air-voids in the seam lay-up, that is too big to be a missed area of laminating. You'll see when she's in half.

    As for my standards, I once challenged anyone in world, to do a better hand-lay-up than me. My boats and products were the best quality lay-up hands down.

    Some of the best I produced:

    1.jpg 7.jpg 3.jpg 9.jpg

    Now that I'm old, the skills are rusty and It would take a lot of practice to build like that again.

    I just want to get in the water. A new sailboat project is taking too long, so figured instead of making a powerboat plug / mold / parts from scratch, like the sailboat, I'd whip-off a powerboat build.
    Last edited by BUMBLESPECIMOODA; 12-17-2023 at 12:26 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default Chooped her up

    Here is some of the shoddyness:

    11.jpg 13.JPG 14.JPG 15.JPG 16.JPG

    I cleaned up the hull and deck, then will re-reinforce areas where I removed bad lay-ups. I will then prep the entire lay-ups of the hull & deck, and add a layer of 6oz. carbon fiber cloth to them both, then prep the seam for joining and reinforcing propperly.

  10. #10
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    Wow, I admire the undertaking. I’ve wanted to do it a couple times and did cut a plastic graupner hull in half once but. Have yet to do this

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    Wow, I admire the undertaking. I’ve wanted to do it a couple times and did cut a plastic graupner hull in half once but. Have yet to do this
    Ya, It's a process that I hoped I didn't have to do, but I just compare it to building one from scratch, making plugs molds etc. That's how I trick my mind into doing it.

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    Default Hatch work

    Mudded and filled things, for a smoth appearance. Then made a larger "foot", to press down on a future foam seal. I don't like the using tape to seal the hatch method.

    16.JPG 17.JPG 18.JPG 19.JPG 20.JPG

  13. #13
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    Very nice work there!

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    What esc and motor combo did you end up going with? I’m deciding on the Hydra X or XLX2

  15. #15
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    Depends what you want to do...

    I have X8s in a Mystic 84 (84cm) it's a non MHZ SAW hull copy that is maxing out the X8s but im also pushing for high speeds

    I'd go for XLX2 and if i ever fry a As26-XXX i have in my HPR115 / C5009 i'd get a pair of XLX2
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

  16. #16
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    Yeah I’m pushing for 100mph in cat. What motors are maxing the X8s? I run an XLX2 with a single TP4060 in my 34” Carbon mono. The motor pulls 300amps easy but that’s a mono. I was hoping the X8 was enough for a cat with lower resistance on the water. I’m running 2 Leo 4092’s 2080kv.

  17. #17
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    1950 Lehners with a high KV on 6s.

    It's a proper SAW (2 pass and done) boat
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

  18. #18
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    I have 2250/7 in my Hpr's and that's about 120mph depending on props on 8s
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

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    I'm planning on SSS 4092-V2'S and CASTLE CREATIONS HYDRA XLX2'S.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BUMBLESPECIMOODA View Post
    I'm planning on SSS 4092-V2'S and CASTLE CREATIONS HYDRA XLX2'S.
    XLX2 is on sale for $277 on Amazon, X is $269.. the question is not about cost, I am thinking about being heavy with two of those massive XLX lol

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlayerUnknown069 View Post
    XLX2 is on sale for $277 on Amazon, X is $269.. the question is not about cost, I am thinking about being heavy with two of those massive XLX lol
    They are big. I'll really look at alternatives when ESC time comes.

    For now, got the bandit mask done:

    21.JPG 22.JPG 23.JPG 25.JPG 26.JPG

  22. #22
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    Default Pipes

    Also got some pipes made up:

    27.JPG 28.JPG 29.jpg 30.jpg

    Working on this today:

    B.jpg
    Last edited by BUMBLESPECIMOODA; 12-29-2023 at 02:28 PM.

  23. #23
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    That rudder mount looks awesome. Nice work on the hardware countersinks
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    That rudder mount looks awesome. Nice work on the hardware countersinks
    Really nice looking gear

  25. #25
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    Really nice rudder hardware. Are you hand cutting the carbon? Because it looks super clean cut. I wonder if I can cut carbon on my C02 laser.

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    Yes, hand-shaped. Dremel, files, sand-papers, & pain.

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    Did this today. When all parts are finished, the carbon bits will be clear-coated, the alu bits polished, and countersunk stainless fasteners installed.

    C.JPG

    Spun some threaded inserts for the canopy attaching. I tap the fiber-plate, then toothpick graphite-powdered epoxy-resin into the cut threads. Then I bolt in a waxed bolt to mold the threads. Works out very stong, and has resistance like nyloc-nuts.

    32.JPG 33.JPG 34.JPG

    They will be mudded & smoothed (with the rest of the messy stock lay-up), then covered in my lay-up of a layer of 6oz. carbon cloth.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUMBLESPECIMOODA View Post
    Did this today. When all parts are finished, the carbon bits will be clear-coated, the alu bits polished, and countersunk stainless fasteners installed.

    C.JPG

    Spun some threaded inserts for the canopy attaching. I tap the fiber-plate, then toothpick graphite-powdered epoxy-resin into the cut threads. Then I bolt in a waxed bolt to mold the threads. Works out very stong, and has resistance like nyloc-nuts.

    32.JPG 33.JPG 34.JPG

    They will be mudded & smoothed (with the rest of the messy stock lay-up), then covered in my lay-up of a layer of 6oz. carbon cloth.
    Well that hatch will be secure. I thread the F/G or carbon for my rudders/struts for the most part. Interesting about the final step though. Nice little trick.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUMBLESPECIMOODA View Post
    Did this today. When all parts are finished, the carbon bits will be clear-coated, the alu bits polished, and countersunk stainless fasteners installed.

    C.JPG

    Spun some threaded inserts for the canopy attaching. I tap the fiber-plate, then toothpick graphite-powdered epoxy-resin into the cut threads. Then I bolt in a waxed bolt to mold the threads. Works out very stong, and has resistance like nyloc-nuts.

    32.JPG 33.JPG 34.JPG

    They will be mudded & smoothed (with the rest of the messy stock lay-up), then covered in my lay-up of a layer of 6oz. carbon cloth.
    Those hatch locks look great.

  30. #30
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    What servo and servo horn setup are you planning on?
    I see people saying the offset servo horn is best like the one from custom carbon fiber parts. Not who else sells one like that.

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