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Thread: Battery storage help

  1. #1
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    Default Battery storage help

    Hey need a little help please. I am new to RC Boats and Lipo batteries. I am running 2 Smart 5000mah 100C 3S batteries. I only get to run boat about every 2 weeks. My question is after I run the boat what do I need to do with the batteries to keep them good. I have a battery charger that can charge them to storage mode. Is that it or what's best to do. Thank you for the response.

  2. #2
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    Yes...after running your boat (or any RC), it's best to charge/discharge the packs to "storage" level. Do this with ALL packs...those you used, as well as any you might have charged but didn't use. Most chargers have a pre-set "storage" (usually between 3.75 & 3.85 volts/cell), while other charges allow the user to program what voltage "storage" should be at. If you can set yours, you probably find most people recommending setting it for 3.8V/cell. My iCharger Duo 406 allows me to set my chosen level (I have mine set to 3.79V/cell)...but, I also have/use two dischargers that are factory set to 3.83V/cell.

    On a related note...and, I know you didn't ask, but this is useful/helpful info...in regards to physically storing LiPo packs, as you start to accumulate more (which everyone does), you'll want something 'safe' to store them in. There are a few companies manufacturing "LiPo storage cases", and charging obscene amounts of money for them...typically over $50 each, with most being at least $60...but, there are much cheaper solutions. You can save yourself a huge amount of money by getting large .50 cal ammunition cases, and removing the rubber seal gasket in the lid. The end result of this is exactly the same as those lipo-safe cases...but, netting you 4x the number of cases for the same price. I get mine at Harbor Freight Tools (it's the ONLY thing I buy at that place, as most of what they carry is complete garbage) for $15 each.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  3. #3
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    Yes, you do NOT want to keep any lipos fully charged when not in use. Typically storage voltage is in the 50% range or about 3.84V per cell, but there really is no one perfect value.

    You dont want the cells to be any lower than 3.7V after running the pack and letting it rest after removal for a minute or so. Any lower and you are decreasing the longevity of the pack, as 3.73V per cell means you have used approx 80% of the packs capacity, and you want to leave that 20% there.

    There is no need to "raise" the values of the pack for storage if at 3.7V per cell, as there is no one magic number. Anything between 3.7 to 3.85V per cell is fine for storage. You can also slow the natural chemical degradation of the lipos by storing them the fridge when not used for long times. Just place them in a ziplock bag of some sort to prevent moisture as they come back down to room temp, and always allow then to fully come down to room temp for a few hours before trying to charge them

    Lipos internal resistance climbs very high when cold, and they can be damaged easily if too many amps are trying to pulled from them if cold, so extra precautions need to be taken if running in cold weather

  4. #4
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    Damnit Panther, you beat me to it!

  5. #5
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    dont store in a 50 cal ammo can. store in metal 30 cal cans. Because if one catches fire you dont want too many other batteries in there with them that will also catch fire. Sorry Panther not trying to piss on your post.

  6. #6
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    IF you get annoyed with how slowly you charger gets the LiPos down to storage voltage try one of these.
    It will pull 250 watts load versus the 2-5 watts that most chargers do. It can suck a battery down in 5-10 mins in most situations.

    https://www.amazon.com/SKYRC-BD250-B...77407356&psc=1

  7. #7
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    Ive read good things about that discharger. I rarely have to bring a full pack down as I fast charge at the flying field or lake, and can run all day using only two packs per model, but when I do need to pull one down, I use a homemade discharger made from a couple old fashioned headlight bulbs in series. Also great when its time to dispose of them

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate the detailed response. Happy RC to everybody.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xrayted View Post
    Ive read good things about that discharger. I rarely have to bring a full pack down as I fast charge at the flying field or lake, and can run all day using only two packs per model, but when I do need to pull one down, I use a homemade discharger made from a couple old fashioned headlight bulbs in series. Also great when its time to dispose of them
    I strickly do SAW runs so my LiPos are usually only down 2 tenths per cell so I constantly use this thing. My only wish is if they could add a cell balance feature. It only looks for the final voltage as the stopping point which you set yourself.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    I strickly do SAW runs so my LiPos are usually only down 2 tenths per cell so I constantly use this thing. My only wish is if they could add a cell balance feature. It only looks for the final voltage as the stopping point which you set yourself.
    Good to know regarding the lack of cell balancing. My homemade bulb discharger is essentially doing the same thing, and no issues so far

    I have a very powerful fast charging setup with my 4010 Duo charger that can handle charging 12 6S 5000mAh packs at a time in parallel. I use both banks separately though, and charge two packs at 3-4C at the lake, so I can run all day with only two packs for a model. It's also capable of doing a high wattage fast regenerative discharge, but that requires dumping the juice into another battery, so I have never used it. Some have had good results using a stripped down hair dryer element and fan as a fast discharger device as well.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    dont store in a 50 cal ammo can. store in metal 30 cal cans. Because if one catches fire you dont want too many other batteries in there with them that will also catch fire. Sorry Panther not trying to piss on your post.
    If I stored in .30 cal cans, I'd need two dozens of them.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    If I stored in .30 cal cans, I'd need two dozens of them.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    imagine if a battery did catch on fire. you'd have dozens of others in the can also go up.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    imagine if a battery did catch on fire. you'd have dozens of others in the can also go up.
    Each can is only holding 6-10 packs.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    I strickly do SAW runs so my LiPos are usually only down 2 tenths per cell so I constantly use this thing. My only wish is if they could add a cell balance feature. It only looks for the final voltage as the stopping point which you set yourself.
    I use a similar 200W discharger from ISDT. I find that if you're using quality Lipo's, the cells stay balanced even when I pull a fully charged 6S pack down to storage voltage because it doesn't get used. I move the discharged packs over to my Hyperion charger afterwards and the balance cycle usually does very little work, and I balance down to a 0.004V delta
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    imagine if a battery did catch on fire. you'd have dozens of others in the can also go up.
    Well that is better than your house on fire!



    For my battery storage box, I used an ex ww2 ammo box ( might have been 303) that was kicking around for years. I made a grate that fits in the top and used some pallet plastic wrap to hold sand on the grate. The theory is that if there is a fire then the plastic wrap melts and the sand drops on the lipos helping to smother them and contain any fire. I made it 8 years ago but despite storing batteries in it all this time it has never had to be proven that the system works. It currently stores 12 lipo packs, 6s and 4s.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter A View Post
    Well that is better than your house on fire!



    For my battery storage box, I used an ex ww2 ammo box ( might have been 303) that was kicking around for years. I made a grate that fits in the top and used some pallet plastic wrap to hold sand on the grate. The theory is that if there is a fire then the plastic wrap melts and the sand drops on the lipos helping to smother them and contain any fire. I made it 8 years ago but despite storing batteries in it all this time it has never had to be proven that the system works. It currently stores 12 lipo packs, 6s and 4s.
    Cool idea.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  17. #17
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    Nice theory, but sand in plastic doesn't work, plenty YouTube videos out there if you want to see how it looks in real life.
    Just adds more toxic fumes and sand only gets it messy but does nothing to help with a lipo fire or the smoke.
    I had that setup for a while as well, but truly not of any benefit.

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