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Thread: Saturday build - rescue boat

  1. #1
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    Default Saturday build - rescue boat

    built this rescue boat from spare PVC, some store bought joints and caps, and a little $30 motor kit from amazon along with the robotic servo with mount for steering. still need to pick up some pool noodles in the morning then take it out for its maiden.


    https://youtube.com/shorts/cX32QFQ6YsA?feature=share


    IMG_20230603_210842.jpg

    IMG_20230603_210906.jpg

    IMG_20230603_210854.jpg

    IMG_20230603_210926.jpg


    here's some links to parts if anyone is interested
    motor kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KNK42DY...roduct_details
    steering servo - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMBMWZW...roduct_details

  2. #2
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    Once been planning doing a new rescue boat (actually, 'platform', as this isn't actually a "boat"), to replace what I've been using (a modified ProBoat Shockwave w/ dual-rudder), and this is similar to what I've been planning (since most use this design as their rescue platform). In terms of the basic platform, the general shapes are always the same. The biggest 'difference' is that some (like yourself) go with a single motor/prop, while others (as I'm considering) go with a dual motor/prop.

    I'm curious about attaching the motor to the robot mount. Reason is, those robots servo mounts all seem to use 14mm spacing, yet most of these motors have 2 pair of holes - one at 16mm, the other at 19mm. I'm assuming you drilled new holes through the bracket. Can you show a photo of the modified bracket that the motor was attached to?

    EDIT: Scratch that photo request. It's been a long few days, and brain is semi-dead. Just realized the 4th photo, of I zoomed in, shows what I was asking for...and, yup, I can see you drilled new holes.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  3. #3
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    the motor came with a mount. I used the mount to mark new holes in the bracket. drilled the center hole out for the c-clip on the shaft of the motor.

    I cant speak to how this works yet, but I can tell you this MOVES air. I can set it on the bare floor as is and it easily accelerates quite well. Watch the video link I barely give it throttle and it takes off the counter.

  4. #4
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    It should work well. Nice set up

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    Oh, I did watch the video...and, yeah, it does move. Of course, remember, there's no resistance. Put it on Easter, and you've just added resistance. But, I'm sure it'll still move plenty well enough.

    Party of why I haven't built such a platform yet is, I'm uncertain of what dimensions to make it...not sure how long the side (front-to-rear) tubes should be, or how wide the platform needs to be (ie. how far apart the side rails need to be from each other). I'm guessing the lengths & width should be based on the longest boat, and the widest boat...but, how should said length & width correlate (ie. how much wider than the widest boat, and how much longer (or, is it supposed to be shorter?) than the shortest boat) between the platform, and the two boats in question?


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  6. #6
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    I just guessed. Kinda put it together on a whim based on what I had. 18" front and 9" rear of the motor mount. 20" wide. I put it off for a while too but it turned out to be super easy and fun. Granted I still haven't actually tried it yet.

  7. #7
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    I haven't started my design (which I'll do on the computer)...but, I do know mine will include raised cross bars front & rear (not just near the rear), so as to 'stabilize' the sides.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

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    DISCLAIMER: I suck at CAD programs.

    Ok, now that that's been said, I decided to finally lay out the groundwork for the rescue platform I was mentioning. This is what I came up with. Counting input the lengths of 1/2" PVC tubing, it consists of the following:

    Four 2-4" lengths
    Four 4-6" lengths
    Eight 6" lengths
    Two 12" lengths
    Four 18" lengths

    This would just be for the base. Anything additional, such as tubing to mount servos, motors, etc, are still to be figured out.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  9. #9
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    Got her finished and took it to the little creek on my property for initial test. Did fine. Not blazing fast but whatever. I will say this needs reverse and a radio that can do at least +120 steering end points. 150 even better.

    IMG_20230605_105914.jpg


    I couldnt hold the camera and drive and the creek sits down 10ft so the video is pretty lame. but here it is going backward and forward briefly.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/UARBgr27ntM?feature=share

  10. #10
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    That's pretty cool. Left overs, who'd a thunk it ? when you figure out reverse, post again!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    I will say this needs reverse
    What ESC are you using, as I'm guessing that's the 'problem'. If using an inexpensive non-user-programmable ESC that was made for plane/drone/helicopter use, reverse has (probably) been "locked out". In that case, you'd have to either use a different ESC, or just live without reverse.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  12. #12
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    already fried the motor trying a 4s battery. doh. went fast though....for 30 seconds. tomorrow I have a 3536 4s capable motor coming. This one was just a tiny 2217.

    I did not glue the motor shaft. Instead I made it removable for easier transport.

    IMG_20230606_121635.jpg

    again using whatever I had laying around I drilled a .065 hole for this large pin thats been in my misc garage drawer for years.

    IMG_20230606_121707.jpg
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-06-2023 at 12:25 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    already fried the motor trying a 4s battery. doh. went fast though....for 30 seconds. tomorrow I have a 3536 4s capable motor coming. This one was just a tiny 2217.
    It's no wonder. The '10S' rarely on that motor is BS. I'd say it's 3S max, 2S recommended.

    I'm considering two 2204-1400kv, or 2830-1300kv, powered by dual 50A ESCs with reverse capability...but, still, non-user-programmable.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    It's no wonder. The '10S' rarely on that motor is BS. I'd say it's 3S max, 2S recommended.

    I'm considering two 2204-1400kv, or 2830-1300kv, powered by dual 50A ESCs with reverse capability...but, still, non-user-programmable.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

    Im using this one. User programmable with reverse.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C9XHMBX...roduct_details

    online .pdf but really didnt need anything changed

    https://img.banggood.com/file/produc...r%20Manual.pdf


    the motor states its 3s max I just didnt bother to read the dang description. This new one should MOVE though so no worries. I highly advise against the kit I linked in the OP. Its lame, 3s max, not really a good deal, no reverse. Just buy the components individually.

  15. #15
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    That's exactly the same one I'll be getting. But, it's not user-programmable...clearly states that in product description, plus the seller indicates a such in answering a question asked by someone else. But, that's ok...doesn't need to be probably.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    That's exactly the same one I'll be getting. But, it's not user-programmable...clearly states that in product description, plus the seller indicates a such in answering a question asked by someone else. But, that's ok...doesn't need to be probably.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    if you read the Q&A the seller gives that link I posted above to program it.

  17. #17
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    Admittedly, I'm probably just as confused as you are. On the product page, it states it's not programmable. In the 'Qs & As', it also states it's not programmable. Yet, according to the PDF, it (supposedly) is programmable. Just not sure which (PDF, or product info and 'Qs & As') is accurate.



    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  18. #18
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    I thought it said it doesnt need to be programmed. Not that its not programmable. Either way it doesnt need it. just plug it in and its fine.

  19. #19
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    new motor arrived. she is now a beast in the water even on 3s. literally had to turn the throttle down to 70%. motor stays ice cold now also. 3536 1250kv with 10x6 prop.


    IMG_20230607_152252.jpg

    IMG_20230607_152616.jpg

    had to drill prop hub for larger shaft. just went for it on the hand drill. balanced out just fine.

  20. #20
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    Got a link for the new motor?


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

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    Thanks.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  23. #23
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    so I found a highly valuable secondary use for the rescue boat. That is clearing sticks out of the pond. I made this net on the back to help catch sticks and bring them to shore.


    IMG_20230613_091420.jpg

    I also widened the boat to 24" for my new project as well as to make it easier to get on any boat at 50-100 yards out in the water.

    new project - massive hull for me (42" x 16" wide)
    IMG_20230613_091719.jpg

  24. #24
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    I still like the rescue platform design I came up with...and, I also still like the design you came up with...but, I felt there was something "wrong" with my design. So, I've completely scrapped my design, and will be working on a different design. However, I have decided on the "base" of the design. Instead of using PVC pipe & pool noodle, I came up with the idea of using an RC plane float set.



    The floats are styrofoam, so I am thinking of covering the foam with a thin layer of fiberglass, or just resin. I'm undecided on 'which', as I've never done either...any suggestions/recommendations? As for 'how' to mount the electronics box above the water, I've got an idea, but first need to find out if I can get a certain part from the float set manufacturer. Your rescue platform has really helped me to start "turning my brain's wheels".

    Regarding the "new boat project", is that a Fighter Cat?


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  25. #25
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    its an aeromarine sprintcat. Its been done for months now with a TP 5670 motor. today ironically I think I got it fully sorted out for good and lapping steadily over 60mph.

    This feels like forever ago. I have used and still use the rescue boat 2-4 times a week, its a hit at the club and saves so much rowing. it has rescued at least 150 boats by now. today alone it did about 5 boats some of which were 100 yards away.

    keep it simple. this should be an afternoon build. one thing that couldnt hurt is to use a lifepo4 battery. like a 4-6ah. high winds can really put a damper on the light boat and you wouldnt have to storage charge every time you use the boat. make it wide as it get difficult when rescuing a boat far away. it takes practice to use these things.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    keep it simple. this should be an afternoon build. one thing that couldnt hurt is to use a lifepo4 battery. like a 4-6ah. high winds can really put a damper on the light boat and you wouldnt have to storage charge every time you use the boat. make it wide as it get difficult when rescuing a boat far away. it takes practice to use these things.
    Regarding using LiFe packs , I like that idea. After all, that's what I use in my transmitters. And, as for the "keep it simple" part, I'm trying. Unfortunately, as for the "afternoon build" part, that's not possible.

    For starters, the float set is Styrofoam, so I will need to hard-cover them. That, alone, will be a 2-day process. Initially, I was thinking fiberglass...but, the weight could end up more than expected. Plus, working with fiberglass isn't something I'm interested in trying...at least, not yet. Instead, I'm now thinking a colored epoxy resin. Two coats should be good. The only 'problem' I'm running into (in my searching) is determining which are "Styrofoam safe". I believe all polyester resins are NOT "Styrofoam safe", and all epoxy resin IS "Styrofoam safe"...but, I'm not 100% certain.

    Once the floats are finished, the rest of the build should easily be completed in a single day. The third/final step could take a little time, considering the 'interesting'...or 'strange', depending on how one looks at it...idea I've come up with for steering. I will test the idea before building the platform, as I'm not even sure it's possible...but, here's the general idea:

    In traditional RCs, steering is done with servos, via Ch1. Tank mixing is done using 2 motors/ESCs, typically on Ch2 & any other available channel (ex. Ch3). I could just go with tank mixing, as I have seen a couple others do, and remove the float's pre-installed rudders. But, since the float set has pre-installed rudders & servos, I might as will use them, right? The down side is that the servos aren't very strong, and I might not be able to replace them with stronger ones. But, if I could, simultaneously, use the rudders AND tank mixing for steering, that would a) make turning the platform so much easier, and it could (potentially) turn sharper; and b) require less effort from the electronics to steer the platform.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

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