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Thread: motor cuts out during wot

  1. #1
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    Default motor cuts out during wot

    but once i release the throttle and pull again it starts back up again. Could be the ESC or the motor overloading or ??? this is on Impulse 32. Spektrum 160 ESC, stock motor 3682 2000kv, 2 x3s Smart batteries and the prop is Dasboata 1516 and the Octura 440 , happens on both props. Boat consistent at 54 mph.

  2. #2
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    Use a program card and disable LVC on the ESC, that is, assuming that can be done on that model. I have no personal experience with it.

    If something was overloading, you'd have excess heat and would know about it when you check temps. Cutout like that after brief runs is usually a LVC circuit that's too sensitive, or sub-par batteries that have too much voltage sage under load.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    what size wiring? too small of wiring and connectors can cause excess voltage drop kicking in the low voltage cutoff like fweasel explained. do you have a temp gun? is anything hot?

  4. #4
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    2 x3s Smart batteries

    What make,"C" rating, and mAmp ratting?

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

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    3s x2 series , Smart 100c ,5000 mah 11.2 v . wire is 10awg and 6mm connectors, using electrical dielectric grease on them, i use it on all the electric connections no matter what they are on. so is not that. the hottest temp was on the front of the motor at 132 degrees. prop on this run was Octura 440.

  6. #6
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    Voltage drop under load, try a smaller prop, lower KV, lower voltage, or better cells.

    edit, I thought i had posted this before the above info came out, but it was still sitting in the typing box:
    Which smart batteries? The new 120c G2s are overpriced IMO, but are a pretty decent battery capable of about 50c, but the older 100c batteries are wildly overated and overpriced garbage that is only capable of 25C and with big voltage drops at that. 30c G2s are a much better battery than 100c G1s, and while I still think they are overpriced, they are the only packs that advertise a realistic C rate that I know of, and that counts for something in my book, I wish all LiPo resellers (including themselves) would follow suit so we could actually give some credence to advertised C rates when making our purchasing decisions rather than having to scour RCGroups to see if somone has independently tested them to find out if they are worth a damn.

    An X440 on 2000kv with 6S will be pulling a pretty high current, if you are on gen1 smart batteries I would suspect that they just cant handle the current and the voltage is collapsing under load.
    Last edited by NativePaul; 06-04-2023 at 04:22 PM.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  7. #7
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    I would say it is your batteries that are the problem.

    Hard case packs are for car racing.
    "C" rating on them is BS.

    Look at the test chart, they could not even put out 35C
    Actual "C" rating is 29C
    Look at the 6th. battery from the top, I bought 6- 4S packs on sale with free shipping for
    $75 each. BEST BANG FOR YOU BUCK.

    Larry
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    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  8. #8
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    if you got the money just run SMC batteries. or the CNHL that TRUCKPULL mentioned. Ive had nothing but good luck with spektrum batteries in my little eflite plane, though. But you got all these super nice boats you should invest in good batteries.

    it could be battery it could be the esc. you're going to have to bite the bullet and learn how to go into esc programming mode or buy the programming cards for every brand. lower the LVC to 3v and see what happens.

    the prop is conservative for a 32" fiberglass hull. if anything undersized. is the boat running super wet? drag increases load, load causes voltage drop.

    while we are at it what charger are you using?
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-04-2023 at 05:43 PM.

  9. #9
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    Recalibrate your throttle for the heck of it.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    You know how we are always tell our children to pay attention to what you are doing? ha, my oldest got me today and said ,," dad , that prop is on backwards", i looke at it and said , no the dog is in, she says, no, that prop is a right hand turning prop( she sooooo smart ) and i look at it ( the Octura 440 ) and dang if it ain't a right turning prop and that boat just went 54 mph on a ass back ward prop. Anyone ever do that?
    I'm gonna test some new G2 100 C 5000 mah 11.2 v batteties tomorrow and see what happen on the same boat that had the 440 on it but one big difference is I'm gonna switch a couple motor wires so it turn CW.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulejr View Post
    I'm gonna switch a couple motor wires so it turn CW.
    Then make sure you use a CW flex shaft!!!

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    I have a cw shaft coming. New set of G2 22.4v , 100C 5000mah. Using the smart charger for all the spektrum batteries. Got the program card and set the LVC to off , see how that goes next trip.

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    You have multiple issues.
    a) take a picture of your 'backwards' setup. All standard props turn counterclockwise and other props (R-reverse) are special order. I doubt Dasboata would have send you one without lengthy discussions.
    If you indeed have a 'R' prop, your flexshaft would have blown up already.

    Back to
    a) LVC, boat would 'die' and come back at ~50% and you can get back home
    b) you might run into overcurrent, ESC would shut off and come back at 'normal' power assuming you don't gun it again

    c) LVC can be Lipo related but what is the charge level i.e. cell voltage after this happened?

    Also do a throttle range adjust per manual, you should be aove 60mph without issues or hesitation. READ the manual on that topic, make sure all TX trims are at zero when you do this.

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    Well,
    a), the prop in question is not a Dasboata. it was off the Zonda and is now back on the Zonda after being torn down to replace the 2 piece shafts. both the Octura (x440) and the Dasboata (1516) are ccw . I never ran the the other boat with the Zonda screw. cornfusion reigns sometimes on the work bench eh. So.


    a) started up again and ran full power.
    b) over current? like a voltage spike? does that happen on dc current?
    c) cell v was 3.97 - 3.92 after that run.

    I shut off the LVC so next run we'll see.

  15. #15
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    When shut off the LVC
    You will NOT have any protection.
    Instead of shutting down, it will just burn up.

    Why would you buy New set of G2 22.4v , 100C 5000mah, the chart shows that they are the worst packs for a boat.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  16. #16
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    Well, huh. Bear with me now, someone suggested in a thread to shut it off to see if it happened again. if not, then to step it up to the next level and try again until i get to the level that it shuts off then back off one level, or how would you go about testing the threshold for the LVC? start at the minimum of 2.34 per cell? If it shuts off at that level, then what?
    As far as batteries go, I not racing so i don't need to spend premium money on batteries that are just going to be used for sport fun?
    What would you recommend for batteries for non-racing application? i have a pair of G2 that go in my AVL for test and tweak, (because they is the only ones i could get to fit in the nose ...) eventually moving to Admirals' that i already use on the Zonda. Spendy....If I can figure out a way to get them in.
    The Smart are self-discharging as my other chargers take forever to discharge these.

  17. #17
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    Yes, all this is difficult as you are getting snippets of info.
    Turning off LVC cures a symptom, but not the disease. If you turn it off, you will no longer have low voltage protection, i.e. now it's on you to stop before that becomes an issue. It's either intuition or you get yourself a lipo alarm.

    Overcurrent is a function of the ESC, again a protection. Too big of a prop will ask for high currents and the ESC will simply say 'You are nuts' and shut itself down.

    Before you do anything else, you have the stock ESC, which has a simple LED that will tell you what happened. It has a blinking code, read the manual and tell us what it's saying. (2 green, 3 green blinks etc).
    Was the Zonda a CW or CCW? All standard props are CCW which comes standard on any boat. Hence, I don't get your setup running with 'reversed' Your flex shaft would simply disintegrate under power. Take a picture of flex shaft out with prop attached.

    List of good lipo manufacturers, listed Spektrum only to show that they charge 2X for an ok performer, I'd stay in the top 10.
    This is the only independent and realistic Lipo testing on the entire web, everything else is sample of one or just junk (in comparison), this is for the pack sizes only. Smaller packs are tested by others.

    Clipboard01.jpg




    A link to where we all get our lipo info from is below. Stay with those manufacturer, the 'best' is a mix of price and performance.
    https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...st-Comparisons

  18. #18
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    Well, I can say that the Zonda's props were in the same box as the impulse and got mixed up , thinking i had the cw prop on the Impulse.. the Zonda uses both cw and ccw .. turning in board for speed from the factory. I now have them back on turning outboard, yes I swapped the drives and the collets then switched motor leads ... so now that is cleared up. still waiting on the card for the Spektrum ESC. all my boat now have the LVC set at 3.7v. not having any problems with the other three.
    I will check out the battery recommendation. I read the results in the link... from 2012.. wondering how much has changed in the last 10 years? I do like two of the ones he likes the Turngy Blue HD and the HK Panther Graphene.

  19. #19
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    The testing results in the link are NOT from 2012! They started that thread and testing back in 2012, but the data on the front page is always kept current, and is currently showing testing from 2023 per the title of the very first post.

    The data you see on that link is being generated as we speak, as they are currently in active testing multiple brands right now for 2023, so that data IS the answer to your "wondering how much has changed in the last 10 years" question. That is the entire point of that thread for more than a decade now.

  20. #20
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    Well, I stand corrected.

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    Correct, stay in the first post on that link, he updates it every season. HK Panther etc. are long gone as a recommendation, they are bottom of the barrel nowadays.
    Still would need a picture of your actual setup, preferably with shaft out and closeup of shaft and prop.
    Sorry, your description is all over the place, started with using dasboata props to never used them but Zonda instead etc. Very confusing on the receiving end. Willing to help but picture is a must at this point.

    I stand by the LED code, my guess it's overcurrent. Just look at it when it happens next time and decode using the manual. Programming box won't do anything. 3.7V LVC seems extremely high, no wonder you get cut-offs. I'd be in the 3.5V range or lower.

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    Indeed. let's just move on. I got the card today for the esc. the LVC was set at 3.7v per cell, I moved it to 3.4. The prop on the photo is Dasboata worked 1516, ccw. Good thing you wanted to see the shaft as the collet had snaped when I put it back together the other day and did not hear (hearing aids out) or see it until now....k
    IMG_20230610_193109572_HDR.jpgIMG_20230610_192555477_BURST000_COVER.jpgIMG_20230610_193105392_HDR.jpgIMG_20230610_195143153_HDR.jpg

  23. #23
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    That is the correct shaft with correct prop rotation. No need to buy anything else but spares of the same.
    I bet that was one of those cheapo Amazon/eBay collets, had the same experience. Only buy your stuff from Offshore (this site), they sell quality items. I'd replace them ASAP including the piece that goes on the motor.

    LVC 3.4V is ok but now you just have to make sure that you learn your boat and stop running before you hit LVC. I'd actually time runs and bring it in after 3 min, if that checks out do another minute, and so on. You want your Lipo to be in the 3.7V-3.8V range when you check, temperature of that lipo should be below 140F. Some may scream at those values, but that is normal in warmer climates (Florida here). Originally you had them at 3.9V which is too high even for storage levels.

    Keep in mind that lipos heat up more the closer you get to empty.

    Again, if you get another cut-off, look at the LED and report back. Enjoy!

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    Ok, thanks Jk, the collet was off the Impulse rtr. there must be a " too tight " condition to crack that collet? I looked at
    Speeds' and at nearly 40 dollars ... wufffff... good thing i have shaft savers on all the boats ....were i racing SAW, I'd be tempted to run their collet, at the rpms that are found in the SAW runs.

  25. #25
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    Yeah, those ProBoat collet nuts are made of thin aluminum and will crack easily, even under normal tightening. I had the same thing happen on my Miss Geico twin, so I replaced them both with a proper collet with a much thicker wall. No need for a $40 collet, as OSE has many different options at reasonable prices: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...lectric+Motors

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulejr View Post
    Do you have dual rudders?

    I have a stock Impulse 32; single rudder.

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    CJPB, yes dual fins, as I was not content with the left turning ability of this set up. I just ganged the added fin (used identical one) to the existing one and now it turns with authority, both directions! And, at 58.2 mph, I did not notice any xtra drag. I believe the factory drive strut puts the prop in a position to take water away from the fin in left hand turns, reducing its ability to maneuver. Below is the link to one treatment.
    https://youtu.be/55o61yZ8rw4

  28. #28
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    Thanks and nice set up! Did you cap the second rudder water outlet or Y it into the other rudder outlet? I just run for fun so I'm not concerned with drag really; besides trying to get the stinger and tabs set so she is stable and not too wet.

    Sorry.... I guess I hi-jacked this thread with other questions not related to the original post.

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    Well I tried to post a photo of the installation but they keep telling me it is too large . i shrank it to 16kb and still get the same error msg. I will try a second post. your hull has another pick up under it and i use it for the esc and the fin for the motor.

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