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Thread: motor KV and voltages

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    Default motor KV and voltages

    According to the elite of this forum you should NEVER spin a motor more than 30k-35k RPM. that a 2000kv motor is 4s MAX.


    TP power recommends 8s for their particular 2826kv motor -83k rpm

    https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php...product_id=607

    Screenshot 2023-05-31 7.54.31 PM.jpg

    Here is a 2250kv motor rated for 12s -120k RPM
    https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php...product_id=524


    here NEU racing motors also calls their 2640kv an 8s motor.

    https://neuracing.us/product/1539-0-5y-s-8mm-car/
    Screenshot 2023-05-31 7.35.19 PM.jpg


    BOAT specific 2850kv for 8s
    https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php...product_id=490
    Last edited by Bande1; 05-31-2023 at 08:22 PM.

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    Enjoy your 80,000rpm setups. Everyone likes things their own way. Sometimes they're right...
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Enjoy your 80,000rpm setups. Everyone likes things their own way. Sometimes they're right...

    did you see the 120k RPM motor?

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    Bande 1. I don't know which is stronger, your arrogance, or your stupidity.
    Can you not read your own links. All 3 T P motors clearly say for 10 seconds. The Neu motor is intended to be used in a car. We members here do not consider ourselves elites, but many of us are experienced. FWIW when I pull the trigger all the way on my boats I usually want to keep it there for more than 8 or 9 seconds. If your goal is to make enemies and create bad will, you are doing an excellent job.

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    I think you are looking at CAR motors (DRAG)
    Here is the chart for Boats.

    Larry
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panchothedog View Post
    Bande 1. I don't know which is stronger, your arrogance, or your stupidity.
    Can you not read your own links. All 3 T P motors clearly say for 10 seconds. The Neu motor is intended to be used in a car. We members here do not consider ourselves elites, but many of us are experienced. FWIW when I pull the trigger all the way on my boats I usually want to keep it there for more than 8 or 9 seconds. If your goal is to make enemies and create bad will, you are doing an excellent job.
    it says 96k rpm for 10 seconds. a fully charged 8s battery. Run it on 6s.

    It's pretty telling that posting contrary evidence is so infuriating that it "makes enemies." Discussion forums and human communication in general is there to further knowledge. Debate, facts, data, evidence is how things advance. And yes there's been quite a few elitist, derogatory comments for daring to challenge the "old timers" here.

    here's a ready to run boat that spins 53k RPM
    https://tflnorthamerica.com/product/...-cooling-copy/
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-01-2023 at 06:48 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    I think you are looking at CAR motors (DRAG)
    Here is the chart for Boats.

    Larry

    see the links in there for options to choose boat. Boats happen to be far less popular than cars so the market caters to them. The big difference seem to be boats use a water jacket so can run even "hotter" setups.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    I think you are looking at CAR motors (DRAG)
    Here is the chart for Boats.

    Larry

    here's a link to choose boat application for 2850kv @ 8s
    https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php...product_id=490

    The difference being that the can is made so that a water jacket can seal on the motor. Boats (and planes) unlike cars can only run so high or so low of "gearing" you cant go super big or super small on props. There has to be a sweet spot. Which seems to be about 45k +/- 5k loaded RPM ....NOT "25k-30k"
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-01-2023 at 05:50 AM.

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    The rpm is a propeller issue. I saw a lot of 2680 KV motors in 4S boats at the NAMBA Nationals. The prop needs to match since the power a given propeller absorbs increases as the CUBE of the rpm. The fastest RC boat in the world runs over 60,000 rpm. Times change depending on what's available. IC engines are much more rpm limited than electrics.

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    Bande1,

    Many of the members on this site, myself included, are focused on oval racing these things. We need to go full throttle for a whole mile at a minimum. Boats can often get away with, and purposefully do, run a higher rpm in a speed run (SAW) setup where all that matters is 1/8 or 1/4 of a mile and then shutdown.

    But in an oval application, high rpm is often not your friend. It's not that the motor itself can't take it. We all know the motor itself can spin at a much higher rpm, but it's more about what else happens. We've got a ~1' long steel wound cable spinning inside a equally long brass tube. Rarely are there any bearings, just a greased bushing in the strut. Extra rpm creates extra friction in both the stuffing tube and the motor, which is turned to heat. If you're converting your power to heat rather than motion, you're just wasting power. Sure, maybe you can get rid of the heat, but you still are turning power capacity into amp draw and heat.

    Here's a perfect, actual example, of dropping the rpm. I have a 39" mono on 6S. I ran it for a couple months with a 1700kv motor and a 1.4 pitch ratio prop. It's average datalogged peak amp draw was 338A. The motor temperature was acceptable during the winter months when I first completed the boat, but as summer began to draw near, the post-race temps were climbing higher and higher. I began to desire to prop up to go faster, but didn't feel like I had any room to do so with the increasing temperatures. So I swapped the boat to a 1520kv motor, and installed a prop with a 1.7 pitch ratio. Same prop manufacturer, diameter, series, same boat trimmed exactly the same with the same ESC, batteries, everything the same but the lower kv motor and the higher pitch ratio prop. I got the same speed, actually 1 mph faster, with a peak amp draw of 319A, and the motor ran about 15 degrees cooler. Why? Because I wasn't converting those 19A into heat in the motor due to the increased rpm.

    So let's see, I lowered the motor kv, propped up, the boat got faster, drew over 6% less current, and ran cooler. That sounds like a win in my book.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    it says 96k rpm for 10 seconds. a fully charged 8s battery. Run it on 6s.

    It's pretty telling that posting contrary evidence is so infuriating that it "makes enemies." Discussion forums and human communication in general is there to further knowledge. Debate, facts, data, evidence is how things advance. And yes there's been quite a few elitist, derogatory comments for daring to challenge the "old timers" here.

    here's a ready to run boat that spins 53k RPM
    https://tflnorthamerica.com/product/...-cooling-copy/
    there is quite some misinformation being spread... high rpm is fine if you know what you are doing. which boats have you setup and are running successfully with such high rpm setups?

    as the saying goes... More Than One Way To Skin A Cat

    the Zonda above, you mention is 53k RPM... but in reality is probably nearer to 40k RPM when actually on the water with some good lipo's.
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

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    High rpm setups will destroy your equipment. Not might. Will. If run with any regularity. If you run zip zip a couple times a month. Might be fine. Bearings, shafts, speed controllers, even propellers suffer at high rpm. The rating of the motor isn't the only factor. A flex shaft isn't exactly pleased at 80k. If a propeller is even slightly out of balance it will beat the strut to death. Been there done that. OH! One high rpm setup threw a stub shaft with the prop on it from the bench. Hit me right in the throat. So stupid. So lucky.

    I've done it every which way. Low RPM to high rpm. Give me the mid range. I get better prop choices, less worn parts, and most important to racing....reliability. If I'm racing I have to finish to have a shot. Mid range gives me that.

    Plus, who's "elite" on this forum? If you mean guys with experience that have screwed it up a bunch of times, broke their junk, shared that failure with others, and then try to help people not make the same mistakes they did.......well then yes, I guess there are a bunch of elites here. There's no exact right way to do these boats. I've gotten it wrong plenty. When some say high rpm "isn't the way" it isn't some snobby elitist BS. It's others sharing their own experience. Their delivery sometimes sucks but the intent is to help and not to dictate "this is the only way".
    Noisy person

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    Yay Bande1, you did take one bit of advice and started a specific thread.

    Now please understand as tbone, Terry and others are saying, and have previously tried to say, high rpm is not "they way to go" always. It has it's place, particularly in saw boats.

    Slagging off and being dismissive at those who have been doing this for much longer than you is not good form. You have also slagged off this forum, calling it a "95% dead forum".

    Perhaps tone it back a bit and learn also from others, after all, your experience is an old 27" mono hull, which you had better results in running on 6s than 4s. When you build up some bigger boats and race them, burn up stuff that costs $$, you will understand better.

    Beware of continuing the way you have, you start sounding like Bill Oxidean, don't be like Bill!
    Enjoy your model boating, it is just a hobby, keep it fun chap.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    High rpm setups will destroy your equipment. Not might. Will. If run with any regularity. If you run zip zip a couple times a month. Might be fine. Bearings, shafts, speed controllers, even propellers suffer at high rpm. The rating of the motor isn't the only factor. A flex shaft isn't exactly pleased at 80k. If a propeller is even slightly out of balance it will beat the strut to death. Been there done that. OH! One high rpm setup threw a stub shaft with the prop on it from the bench. Hit me right in the throat. So stupid. So lucky.

    I've done it every which way. Low RPM to high rpm. Give me the mid range. I get better prop choices, less worn parts, and most important to racing....reliability. If I'm racing I have to finish to have a shot. Mid range gives me that.

    Plus, who's "elite" on this forum? If you mean guys with experience that have screwed it up a bunch of times, broke their junk, shared that failure with others, and then try to help people not make the same mistakes they did.......well then yes, I guess there are a bunch of elites here. There's no exact right way to do these boats. I've gotten it wrong plenty. When some say high rpm "isn't the way" it isn't some snobby elitist BS. It's others sharing their own experience. Their delivery sometimes sucks but the intent is to help and not to dictate "this is the only way".
    what's mid-range?

    I've tried the low RPM route from this forums advice. The boat ran terrible from too large a prop, the batteries swelled excessively, and wires kept desoldering. The torque roll so severe the throttle speed had to be turned down to 10/100.

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    Bande 1. Nobody's trying to pick a fight with you, or exclude you from the forum. I have come at you pretty hard. Twice. I only did that because your comments came off somewhat snide and dismissive of some of the most experienced boaters that exist. I think Terry and Peter in post # 12 & 13 have put it about as good as it can be written. Every set-up is different,and will respond to changes in a multitude of ways. There isn't a definitive right
    or wrong way. There are parameters that stand a better chance of being successful than others. When these are put forward by someone with decades of experience as advice to somebody who is new and asking for help, if you wish to debate the issue please do so in a little more open minded manner. We have all seen hundreds of U tube videos of boats going
    real fast. Most people don't post the video of the boat sinking after the end
    over end flip tore the hull wide open, or the smoke from the burning ESC.
    This hobby can be very rewarding, and very Expensive. Sometimes the most fun is just bringing your boat back to shore and having it be trouble free and ready for another run. Run them how you see fit. No one is going to give you any guff. Happy Sailing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Panchothedog View Post
    Bande 1. Nobody's trying to pick a fight with you, or exclude you from the forum. I have come at you pretty hard. Twice. I only did that because your comments came off somewhat snide and dismissive of some of the most experienced boaters that exist. I think Terry and Peter in post # 12 & 13 have put it about as good as it can be written. Every set-up is different,and will respond to changes in a multitude of ways. There isn't a definitive right
    or wrong way. There are parameters that stand a better chance of being successful than others. When these are put forward by someone with decades of experience as advice to somebody who is new and asking for help, if you wish to debate the issue please do so in a little more open minded manner. We have all seen hundreds of U tube videos of boats going
    real fast. Most people don't post the video of the boat sinking after the end
    over end flip tore the hull wide open, or the smoke from the burning ESC.
    This hobby can be very rewarding, and very Expensive. Sometimes the most fun is just bringing your boat back to shore and having it be trouble free and ready for another run. Run them how you see fit. No one is going to give you any guff. Happy Sailing.

    you guys keep making these statements about boat sinking and blowing up. Then when tons of video is posted showing daily uploads of the same boat over and over you ignore it. What's being asked by me is fact. No BS, no ego, just prove your case so people know whats legit advice.

    for example here's my temps at 57k peak RPM unloaded after 3 minute IMPBA 1/3 mile oval

    ESC

    IMG_20230529_144634.jpg

    motor

    IMG_20230529_144613.jpg

    battery

    IMG_20230529_144647.jpg
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-01-2023 at 06:49 PM.

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    1/3 mi. oval. What was your time for 6 laps,
    Rules say a max of 10,000 mAps, or two 5,000 packs in Parallel, so you have restricted battery power.
    Now you have to limit your AMPS to make your batteries last for one race.
    Now with the same rules you want to run in an offshore race (4 min. long)

    Your boat has to run 1 lap before the start.
    and 1 lap after the finish.
    This adds extra heat and sucks battery life.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

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    Hey guys let him go. Do I consider myself an elitist. Used to. Also used to race every weekend all over the country. As Terry said. Been their done that. I personally have thrown away tens of thousands of dollars. I started with electrics over 30 years ago. Brushed motors and NICADS. You can spin 80k if you want. The prop won?t like it. Please wear face protection when you throw a blade at that pace. Also I hope your shaft is balanced because your going
    To tear apart your drive line. Back in the day I ran an 18 cell cat. So let?s say 6s with a gear drive. Screamed like a jet engine. Terry will remember it. Won a lot of races. Also lost a lot of races trying to keep it together.

    So again go ahead try something new to you. Let us know how it goes in a 2 minute full throttle or 4 minute full throttle run.

    I?ll bring the chocolate. Marshmallows and grahm crackers.

    Elite old Boater.


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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    1/3 mi. oval. What was your time for 6 laps,
    Rules say a max of 10,000 mAps, or two 5,000 packs in Parallel, so you have restricted battery power.
    Now you have to limit your AMPS to make your batteries last for one race.
    Now with the same rules you want to run in an offshore race (4 min. long)

    Your boat has to run 1 lap before the start.
    and 1 lap after the finish.
    This adds extra heat and sucks battery life.

    Larry

    dont know, dont care about laptimes. speeds were in the mid 60's. racing has its own rules and is irrelevant.


    care to address the false information thats been given out here by "respected" members claiming 45k rpm will demagnetize a motor? Why are you turning a blind eye to blatantly wrong statements?

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    Quote Originally Posted by photohoward1 View Post
    Hey guys let him go. Do I consider myself an elitist. Used to. Also used to race every weekend all over the country. As Terry said. Been their done that. I personally have thrown away tens of thousands of dollars. I started with electrics over 30 years ago. Brushed motors and NICADS. You can spin 80k if you want. The prop won?t like it. Please wear face protection when you throw a blade at that pace. Also I hope your shaft is balanced because your going
    To tear apart your drive line. Back in the day I ran an 18 cell cat. So let?s say 6s with a gear drive. Screamed like a jet engine. Terry will remember it. Won a lot of races. Also lost a lot of races trying to keep it together.

    So again go ahead try something new to you. Let us know how it goes in a 2 minute full throttle or 4 minute full throttle run.

    I?ll bring the chocolate. Marshmallows and grahm crackers.

    Elite old Boater.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    when the facts are on your side argue the facts
    when the law is on your side argue the law
    when neither is on your side pound the table


    so far we've had red herrings, strawmen, and ad hominems.....but zero evidence

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    I done here.
    Have fun burning things up.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bande1 View Post
    what's mid-range?

    I've tried the low RPM route from this forums advice. The boat ran terrible from too large a prop, the batteries swelled excessively, and wires kept desoldering. The torque roll so severe the throttle speed had to be turned down to 10/100.
    Sounds like you needed some strut adjustment. Do you make any adjustments other than bigger and smaller propellers? There’s lots of variables to electric RC boats that your lack of experience might be leading you to false conclusions.

    The motors you listed are competition drag motors for RC cars. The 10 second WOT limit you see on tp’s site is specific to the application of RC cars. RC boat motor applications limits are suggested to be no-longer than 5 seconds WOT. Also, those motors carry no warranty.

    In FE there’s more to speed than just rpm’s little fella. Get off your soapbox and stop giving unwarranted advice on these forums.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    Sounds like you needed some strut adjustment. Do you make any adjustments other than bigger and smaller propellers? There’s lots of variables to electric RC boats that your lack of experience might be leading you to false conclusions.
    its sorted out now. It was prop.

    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    The motors you listed are competition drag motors for RC cars. The 10 second WOT limit you see on tp’s site is specific to the application of RC cars. RC boat motor applications limits are suggested to be no-longer than 5 seconds WOT. Also, those motors carry no warranty.
    for the 3rd time click link choose boat option https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php...product_id=490

    this thread is about the claim that 35k RPM is the physical limit for boats. Please stay on topic.

    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    In FE there’s more to speed than just rpm’s little fella. Get off your soapbox and stop giving unwarranted advice on these forums.
    every word uttered in your post has been wrong.

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    The ‘Boat’ option you keep referring to on tp’s website is an option for a finned case or a smooth can. That’s all.

    Again, you don’t know what you’re talking about. Stop giving ‘advice’ on this forum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    The ?Boat? option you keep referring to on tp?s website is an option for a finned case or a smooth can. That?s all.

    Again, you don?t know what you?re talking about. Stop giving ?advice? on this forum.
    -that motor is not for boats!
    -also that boat option is for putting on a water jacket!

    Last edited by Bande1; 06-02-2023 at 10:55 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by photohoward1 View Post
    Back in the day I ran an 18 cell cat. So let?s say 6s with a gear drive. Screamed like a jet engine. Terry will remember it. Won a lot of races. Also lost a lot of races trying to keep it together.
    I do remember. That thing was terrifying. The sound was magnificent. Is that the boat you threw the magnets in at the Michigan Cup?

    Bande1.......why would you run these high rpm setups for just mid 60's? That's not very good for how hard it will be on equipment.

    I don't like to go over 40,000 rpm. 32k to 35k is ideal in my opinion. If I go over I that have to make sure everything is well balanced and the boat is perfect. In a typical summer I'll run twice a week plus club races. So about 650 laps in a summer if I don't travel. If anything is out of balance it will resonate over 40k. It gets worse the higher we go. Stuff is going to wear and eventually something gives. Traveling to a race and twisting a flex cable sucks. You traveled to hang with your friends at that point.

    If the high rpm was going to give me an extra 20 mph maybe I would consider it more often. Or if I'm not running much. The SAW guys go down and back. They're not typically out running all the time. They never turn in heat water getting the crap beat out of their drive lines through the turn. It's a different kind of thing entirely. They dig it but man I get bored at those events.

    When choosing RPM I focus on my best guess as to what prop is going to work on a given hull. This is where experience pays off. The guess'n gets easier after you've baked a bunch of crap. Small mono......shoot for a smaller prop. Large mono......larger gas sized prop with likely lower rpm. Need the blades to get the boat out of the hole. 34" Black Pearl sport hydro wants.......18 or 19 series props. If I go 50k on a Pearl I'll need a tiny prop. Makes for a hoppy turd with terrible acceleration off of the turn. If I go too low on Kv I end up with a huge prop. On a Pearl the blades will drag the a$$ end of the boat around even in the straights. I have a Pearl setup that will turn 51,000 rpm. Just for SAW. I doubt I will ever get it to work because I can't get a prop that will hook up without hopping all over the place. I may have to invent something if I get serious.

    There is no exact way that always applies to every hull. High rpm can work.........or not. The risks of failure increases with high rpm.

    Oh also.....heat demagnetizes the rotors. However, some magnets are segmented and then wrapped with reinforcement. What can happen at high RPM the rotor can come apart. I used to call it blossoming. haha The magnets come free from the shaft. Carnage ensues. Tyler Garard can probably tell us about the actual effect of rpm on the magnets. Maybe the actual magnetic field suffers and results in less power. That science is truly over my head.
    Noisy person

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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    I do remember. That thing was terrifying. The sound was magnificent. Is that the boat you threw the magnets in at the Michigan Cup?

    Bande1.......why would you run these high rpm setups for just mid 60's? That's not very good for how hard it will be on equipment.
    excellent post and this is what I was hoping for all along.


    My hull cant take going any faster. my motor has plenty more but the poor boat is done. but to get to those speeds on 4s you begin to melt wiring because you run far higher currents. not to mention the prop is just too large for the hull and causes major issues. stepping up voltage and stepping down prop runs cooler and the boat responds much better.


    watts = volts x amps


    when you lower the volts you increase the amps. that's a "brown out" condition in residential electrical. It destroys motors, actually. the most efficient systems will always be the higher voltage systems.
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-02-2023 at 12:51 PM.

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    I hear what yer saying with the residential brown out. With say a compressor motor on the fridge.....that load is fixed. Low voltage drives the amperage up as you describe. With our goofy boats, if the voltage is lower we can adjust the load to keep the amps sane........ish. It's all about efficiency as you mentioned. Transferring watts to motion. There is a sweet spot based on your goals for a setup. A prop that's say 1.7" diameter at 50,000 rpm has more slip than a 2.0" diameter prop at 32,000 rpm. Maybe it doesn't matter on a particular setup. Takes me back to my earlier comment that each hull has a different sized propeller that makes sense. If you can build from ground zero and choose every component you can have the right....ish prop and design the power system around it. Most of us get a boat and then start thinking what to put in it. Or we get the boat and go to the box of junk on our shelf. "Hmmmm....this might work" Kinda wonky if you think about it. We all do it.

    Wanna make yer head hurt worse? Back in the early days we had a finite selection of brushless motors. There were basically two sources in the states for a while. Super expensive. Took what we could get. Everything was two pole so torque was never great. You would change classes and not want to spring for another motor. So we spun them up. We might run 50,000 rpm but were limited to 125 amps. Tiny props or forget it. Such a PIA. So we would let the motors go bananas but run them through a gear drive to get to the prop size we wanted. Sounded like a freak'n chain saw. That's what Howard had going if I remember correctly. The gears would fail all the time. Everything would vibrate itself to bits eventually. Sigh....... It was a hateful time to race FE but we all thought we were the shiznit. I had a 45" cat running 32 cells on a gear. Had a love/hate relationship with that miserable bugger.

    A note for all of us........try to be less abrasive. Obviously we rubbed this young man wrong at some point. Share, discuss, even debate but try to be respectful. Yes, I acknowledge that I don't always get it right either. Keep try'n. Sounds like we tried to give him the ole' "because I said so and I know more" instead of explaining the thought process.

    We're humans but us beating each other up and bickering over toys is bad for the hobby. Now all of you all.........stay off my lawn!
    Noisy person

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    AZ
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    992

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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    We're humans but us beating each other up and bickering over toys is bad for the hobby. Now all of you all.........stay off my lawn!
    Agree 100%; however, in a different thread, the OP was offering motor and lipo combos to a newbie that would have lit up Clark’s Christmas Lights. Other seasoned boat racers countered his bad advice with their sage advice and the OP wouldn’t listen and continued to argue. The information was there for the taking, but he didn’t want it.

    As much as ‘bickering’ hurts the hobby, bad advice, blown motors, fried controllers, and burnt lipos have the potential to do a lot more harm. Lots of money wrapped up in these little boats.

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    tn
    Posts
    538

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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    Agree 100%; however, in a different thread, the OP was offering motor and lipo combos to a newbie that would have lit up Clark’s Christmas Lights. Other seasoned boat racers countered his bad advice with their sage advice and the OP wouldn’t listen and continued to argue. The information was there for the taking, but he didn’t want it.

    As much as ‘bickering’ hurts the hobby, bad advice, blown motors, fried controllers, and burnt lipos have the potential to do a lot more harm. Lots of money wrapped up in these little boats.

    this is the pompous arrogance of the "elite" Im talking about. They're referring to a guy running 6s on a 2000kv motor. matching the motors voltage to its specs.

    what this guy cant grasp is that hes telling newbs to pull crap loads of amps so that he can go slower. He fully believes that Im "lighting up a christmas tree" by matching a motors specs and not under-volting, over current pulling a system.

    no logic, no evidence, no reason, no puffed battery pack changes their mind. And they refuse to post proof.



    get this through your head:
    you are either running higher volts or
    you are pulling higher amps
    .....ONE OF THE TWO
    Last edited by Bande1; 06-03-2023 at 07:03 AM.

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