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Thread: TP motor identification?

  1. #1
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    Default TP motor identification?

    I recently acquired two TP motors but there are no markings on them showing what the kv or power ratings are on them.
    How do I know what I have?

    They were both in boats with water jackets.

    One motor measures around 40mm dia x 107mm length and has the number x17018 on it. I think it may be a 4070? It has gold end caps.

    The other one is 40mm dia x 85mm long and has the number S16277 on it. I think it may be a 4050? It has black end caps.

    They both have a 5mm shaft in them.

    How do I tell what the kv, voltage, and wattage is on these so I know what I have?

    I sent TP an email but haven't heard back from them yet.

    Is there a way to check kv rating like putting a certain known voltage to them and simply measuring the rpm somehow?

    Thanks for any tips or info.

  2. #2
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    You can use a motor kv checker to find out the KV rating, then, you can better guess at which model you have to cross reference specs on voltage limits. Other than that, I'm not even sure if those numbers mean anything to TP where they'd be able to give you an answer. I started engraving the kV into the rear endbell of my TP motors a few years ago for this same reason.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  3. #3
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    I just found this too. A bit of a chore but should work.
    I'll have to get a motor tester. I didn't know about them. They seem pretty slick. I wonder how accurate or consistent they are.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD1gplvhGrc

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisk7 View Post
    I just found this too. A bit of a chore but should work.
    I'll have to get a motor tester. I didn't know about them. They seem pretty slick. I wonder how accurate or consistent they are.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD1gplvhGrc
    The results are often more accurate than the manufacturer stamp on the motor. kV is just revolutions per volt. If you know the voltage of the battery and you know the RPM of the motor spindle, kV is easily calculated.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  5. #5
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    Many years ago back in my early RC heli flying days I used Castle ESCs because they had logging capability and were useful for testing actual motor KV. We would set the gear ratio to 1:1 in the Castle software and run the motor unloaded at 100% PWM, then look at the log and simply divide the RPM by the voltage shown on the log at the same point. Rarely ever was the true KV as claimed on the motor, but close enough that you would know which version you had if unknown.

    I'm just getting back into RC boats again after several years, so I have no idea if the Castle marine ESCs have the same logging capability as the air ESCs do? Any sort of telemetry logs could provide the same info if available which is widely used on RC aircraft of all kinds, but I'm not seeing it being used so much on boats so far.

  6. #6
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    I just ordered one of those motor checkers so I can play around with it and see what TP motors I have. At least what kv they are.
    I still won't know what winding they are or what timing I should run in the ESC though.

    I guess I could cross reference the known dimensions and kv rating to their web page and try and figure out what motors I have that way. Seems like their web page doesn't tell you what timing to use either unless I missed it somewhere.

    I agree about the ESC's that have some sort of data logging. At this time I don't have any that do that.

    I'm living in a RV and traveling for the time being so much of my RC related tools and equipment are on the other coast in storage so I'm limited on what I can do.

  7. #7
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    Donhuff posted once on how to identify D vs Y by looking at how the winding wires were terminated inside the can. I've since forgot. It might be buried in this very informative post about how to re-wire a motor.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  8. #8
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    You can look into the vent holes on the rear end cap. If you see a piece of usually black heat shrink, that has been pressed down into the windings. That is the Y connection where the three legs terminate on one end. No heat shrink, then it's a D wind.


    BUT!!!!! as I have stated several times before. FORGETABOUTIT!! It makes no difference at all. Whatever the default is on your controller, leave it there and you'll be just fine. Anywhere from 0 to 15 is OK.
    AmpDaddy
    don huff

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