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Thread: Blazer Marine P Sport Hydro build

  1. #1
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    Default Blazer Marine P Sport Hydro build

    This is a in development design of a new boat from Blazer Marine. 2 different P Sport Hydros will be offered. Believe there is a Q boat in development also. Not certain if there will be two Q boats.

    P LTD Sport Hydro will be 31". This build is of the 33.5" P Sport Hydro kit. BTW, this is my first spt hydro build, ever. Friends are freaking out as they are wondering why the motor isn't hanging off the back.

    Anyway, early pics of the kit in the build process.

    psh01.jpg

    psh02.jpg

    psh03.jpg

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Scott View Post
    This is a in development design of a new boat from Blazer Marine. 2 different P Sport Hydros will be offered. Believe there is a Q boat in development also. Not certain if there will be two Q boats.

    P LTD Sport Hydro will be 31". This build is of the 33.5" P Sport Hydro kit. BTW, this is my first spt hydro build, ever. Friends are freaking out as they are wondering why the motor isn't hanging off the back.

    Anyway, early pics of the kit in the build process.

    psh01.jpg

    psh02.jpg

    psh03.jpg
    Wouldn't even worry about motor placement as of yet. Get floatation inside and skins on top first.mount hardware set your batteries of choice and motor inside.dont forget to epoxy piece of aluminum inside right sponson for mounting turn fin bracket to before putting top skins on. Cog on mine is approximately 1 inch behind sponsons

  3. #3
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    Appreciate the information.

    Disclaimer: I have a direct discussion with Brian on his design. Helps being in the same club. This is the fourth design he came up with. The other three have been trashed. I've been pushing him for over a year to design an electric boat. Believe others have been pushing also. He has a new .45 sport hydro in development too. He has the CG somewhat in the ball park. Believe he used the weight of the Castle Hydra, mounted to the front. Turn fin setup will come from him. Already told him I want a 31", haven't stated need a Q also.

    Boat was designed to use 2 2S packs. Motor choice is between a TP Power 4050 or 4060 in the 2k kv area.

    psh04.jpg
    Last edited by Mark Scott; 02-22-2023 at 02:23 PM.

  4. #4
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    Have fun with it Mark!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Have fun with it Mark!
    20 seconds for two laps and I'll have fun! lol.. Going after your record Mike!

  6. #6
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    Recent updates on the build.
    psh04.5.jpg

    psh05.jpg

    psh06.jpg

    psh07.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  8. #8
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    Nice work Mark! I am excited to see you get this going.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Mike. Should see the pics of Brian's build up. Getting to the point to choose which drive line to use. Flex cable or wire drive.

  10. #10
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    First coat of epoxy laid down. Using Total Boat - Total Penetration for initial two coats, then will use two coats of West Systems 205.

    Total Penetration is thin as water. Another useful item is that while in liquid state, it is water soluble.

    psh12.jpg

  11. #11
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    While wet, rub'd in as much as possible. Second coat was 1.5hrs later. Same action, rub'd any access into wood. Hour later, one coat of 205 laid down. The sub hatch bottom was also epoxied during this time.

    psh13.jpg

    psh14.jpg

  12. #12
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    Mark, I'm assuming that you will add 1/8" spruce sticks in the places that they are missing in above pictures?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  13. #13
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    Actually, the spruce sticks won't be added. You will see what is done instead in a few days.

  14. #14
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    Here is the floatation for the boat. This is why no spruce added. Debating to fill in the other two front sections. Might add some, will see tomorrow.

    psh15.jpg

  15. #15
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    Mark, Pack as much foam and floatation as you can in there. The foam also stiffens these hulls which helps. I know most people don't like 2-part foam, but here is where is shines as it gets in every nook and cranny and strengthens everything. I do this will all my sport hydro and rigger builds. It's also easy to sand down to match the contours.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  16. #16
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    Tyler, what 2-part foam you using? Used it decades ago when making frame tunnels. Then went to WOF style, until lately. Fully agree that it gets into every nook and cranny. Think this build will continue to use what it has. Next hull will go 2-part foam.

  17. #17
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    Noisy person

  18. #18
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    Thanks, may take a trip to the local sailing shop where I get West Systems. Could make an order from this place where Total Boat comes from.

    https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct-detail/2198

  19. #19
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    Use the two part selectively. It will add weight.
    Noisy person

  20. #20
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    I looked closer at the pics. Really liking this design. Lots of trick details. Looks like the dims are dead nuts too.
    Noisy person

  21. #21
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    Brian handed me a frame (design #1) and a kit (design #2). Started working on #2 and get told to stop. Slight redesign to #2 makes it #3. Nearly done with the frame and told to stop again. LOL. Design #4 is what you see.

  22. #22
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    Haha I'm not telling how many Pearl kits I have had/built/changed/abandoned/destroyed. Mostly cuz I'm not sure. I have two version 12's slated to start soon.

    I'm fascinated by a number of elements on your B4. I'll be interested to see how it does. Should be capable of some crazy saw runs in my opinion.
    Noisy person

  23. #23
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    I use 2lb for sport hydro's and 3lb for riggers.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  24. #24
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    Looks great! A lot of detail on those sponson bottoms. Also like the tapered sides behind the air bleeds. We tried tapering the entire bleed at one point. Worked great to reduce the pressure underneath.

  25. #25
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    Decided to take out the foam installed. Bought some 2 part foam, will be here next week. Will be going wire drive. That setup will be ordered on Monday. Updates appear to be another week away.

  26. #26
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    If you go wire make sure there is zero flex in your motor mount assembly. If it can bounce any the wire will eventually break right at the coupler. Sucks. Lost too many that way.
    Noisy person

  27. #27
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    For this boat, using the quick change 40mm mount purchased from OSE. Going to make sure the alignment is checked many times over before putting down glue. Thanks for the advice.

  28. #28
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    20230130_193115.jpg20230130_193130.jpg Mark, You might consider this way to mount your motor and you can keep some adjustability

  29. #29
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    Made some directionial changes. Stripped out the pink foam. Went two part, 2lb, as suggested. Also opened up the side to allow the batts to be positioned differently.

    psh17.jpg

    psh18.jpg

    Using Gorilla glue to mount these pieces down.

    psh19.jpg

  30. #30
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    After cleaning up the batt area, added some ply pads to support the batteries.

    psh20.jpg

    psh21.jpg

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