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Thread: Help with choosing solder

  1. #1
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    Default Help with choosing solder

    I need help choosing the right solder.
    Building a Q sport hydro with 6s batteries, to power 1470 motor,
    8mm bullet connectors.
    My question is what is everyone using to solder the connectors for high current use?
    Any help will be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    A few years ago someone recommended this silver Kester and I?ve been using it ever since, it works great for me.



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    Namba District 16
    1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joe, 1/8 Bud, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pescador View Post
    A few years ago someone recommended this silver Kester and I?ve been using it ever since, it works great for me.



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    Brian - that is the same stuff that I use. It was recommended to me by Castle.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  4. #4
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    Default

    Source?

  5. #5
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    I found this. I think it’s the same

    https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/...&gclsrc=aw.ds#

  6. #6
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    Thank you Pecador for sharing.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Any 60/40 solder works as well.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkflow View Post
    Any 60/40 solder works as well.
    Thank you. Dumb question, since lead is a soft metal, isn’t it to soft for higher current draws using a 6s setup?
    I currently use silver solder but it is hard to work with.

  9. #9
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    Guys, you do not need silver solder.

    A good rosin core 60/40 electronics solder is what you want. Look for an .031-.062" diameter range which makes it easier to feed in. I would highly recommend a small 1oz bottle of liquid flux to help tin wires.

    90% of a good solder joint is prep technique and equipment. You will want a good 80-150W iron preferably with a chisel tip, a connector pinch tool or small vise to hold connectors while soldering and a heat resistant work surface like a silicone mat or phenolic plate.

    The most common error I see in high current joints is too much gap between the connector cup and the wire. If the wire has a loose fit in the connector try doubling the wire back on itself or balling up to make the wire fit snug. You do not want to use solder to fill large gaps.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  10. #10
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    Thank you Tyler for the info.

  11. #11
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    Come and get me coppers...
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    Nortavlag Bulc

  12. #12
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    I use simple craft wire to fill any gap. I wrap it around the wire and solder it in place. As stated above, keep the gap to a minimum.

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CYFHQM

  13. #13
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    I just use solid copper because I have it and a lathe too. That same wire that is $7.99 USD is $16 - $30 CDN here. Our dollar is crashing, or has been for years now...

    As long as it works use what you can!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    Come and get me coppers...
    Oh my gosh I love the copper inserts. I take Castle wire, cut a strand off, wrap it around the wire I?m soldering and twisting it tight, then soldering the whole thing into the bullet. Haven?t lost one yet since I started doing that, but that solid copper core is awesome!

  15. #15
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    I learned it all here.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    .... and a lathe too.
    How is it that I own no lathe and no mill? Ridiculous.
    Noisy person

  17. #17
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    It's just a Taig,lol all manual by hand. Still gets the job done. I also have a tiny mill attachment. :)

    I wouldn't trust it to take a millimeter off a Tenshock motor case. I've taken the fins off a Neu motor with it and that was kinda scary.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  18. #18
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    I stay away from lead free solder, I prefer 60/40 or 63/37 as leaded solder flows much better.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    Come and get me coppers...
    Well look at the tip I picked up today, haven’t even finished my coffee. Another use for my Unimat lathe.
    Thanks for that one Ray.

    Terry if you don’t have a lathe look up a Unimat. Small affordable and versatile for small stuff.

    Shawn

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    How is it that I own no lathe and no mill? Ridiculous.
    COVID purchases for the shop... I'm no machinist, but they're incredibly useful.

    IMG_20210131_171415_01~2.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    COVID purchases for the shop... I'm no machinist, but they're incredibly useful.

    IMG_20210131_171415_01~2.jpg
    You cant go wrong with the Sherlines for small stuff, very under rated machines for what they can do. much better & more capable than the old Unimats in my opinion. I have owned both Unimat & Sherline, but would choose my Sherline lathe any day over the Unimat.

  22. #22
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    My accumulation over the last 45 years of R/C

    Larry
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    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    COVID purchases for the shop... I'm no machinist, but they're incredibly useful.

    IMG_20210131_171415_01~2.jpg
    well those are nice Ryan. Without the hassle of treatin* the equipment like a transformer

  24. #24
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    Mines just a Chinese combo but I added a DRO, wish I had it back in school it feels like cheating lol.


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    Namba District 16
    1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joe, 1/8 Bud, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.

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