Self-Righting Hull Design

[mmakay]

I've been toying with the idea of designing and building my own hull for a while now. I wanted to share the current iteration of the design to get feedback and tap into the forum's experience and knowledge.

My goal is a boat that will primarily be used for fun, so competition isn't a priority. I expect the water here to be choppy more often than not and hopefully the design is well suited to that. Right now I'm planning for 750mm length because I have an unused Mega 22/30/2 that (I think) should work well for that size. (Maybe I'll super-size V2 if it turns out well.)

I;m quite tempted to 3D print the initial prototype. Obviously there are serious material issues to consider. Second choice would be to 3D print a mold for a wet lay up. I'm probably not going the route of making a buck and laying up the mold. I realize that's best for making multiple copies, but I'm not sure there will ever be more than one ... and even less sure I won't be making lots of changes.

Ask any questions you want. All constructive criticism is welcome.

[Dirk Jan]

Nice renders, what software did you use for the design?
My first note would be the deadrise angle seems quite big. It is the angle of the V shape at the transom, in relation to the horizontal plane.
Popular and well performing boats such as the Sonicwake, but also racing hulls like the Deltaforce series, use a deadrise of around 22-23 degrees.

Regarding the build technique, I'm a wood builder, but if I had a 3D printer, I would first try printing the actual hull and glass it for strength.

I'm currently building a 32" / 800mm Wild Thing mono hull from wood. Without a flood chamber.. I guess I need a rescue boat

[mmakay]

Nice renders, what software did you use for the design?

Thanks. I design in Solidworks and use Visualize to render.

My first note would be the deadrise angle seems quite big. It is the angle of the V shape at the transom, in relation to the horizontal plane.
Popular and well performing boats such as the Sonicwake, but also racing hulls like the Deltaforce series, use a deadrise of around 22-23 degrees.

It has 25deg deadrise, which is intentionally on the higher end of the spectrum to (theoretically) help the rough water capability. Is that too, high? Maybe? For some reason I thought the Pursuit was 25deg, which seems like good company. I'm not sure where I saw that number though.

Regarding the build technique, I'm a wood builder, but if I had a 3D printer, I would first try printing the actual hull and glass it for strength.
I'm currently building a 32" / 800mm Wild Thing mono hull from wood. Without a flood chamber.. I guess I need a rescue boat

I seriously considered building a Wild Thing. You know what ultimately turned me off? I can't find 1/8" ply anywhere around here longer than 24". Yes, I know that's not the best reason, but there you have it.

Glassing a print is definitely on the table. I'm just not sure how good of a bond to expect ... and yes, that's very dependent on the print material. I wonder is polyester resin is compatible with PETG?

[Dirk Jan]

I don't have much experience with mono's yet. I can only say from reference that 22-23 degrees deadrise works well. I guess a few degrees more should still work fine and you chose it for a reason.

I also wonder about the bonding of a laminate (epoxy) to a 3D printed plastic hull. I see it beiing done quite often.
Regarding the wood sheet sizes available, that is too bad. I purchase it online, as there are not too many places here either, who can supply.

[gunboat]

I like the desing i have considered building another boat. With your modeling capabillity, you could make a double mold (interior and exterior) and resin infuse epoxy glass a one piece hull. I have tested PVA and it works as a mold up to a certian temp. so your interior mold could desolve The bagging and glassing will be advanced and take some practice. Print in several pieces so you dont have support if needed. I am going to try this on my next boat.

[srislash]

Well having a couple Pursuits in the stable and a MMP Rapide, I think the transom looks good. Both of the aforementioned boats are great in the chop. I am very curious about the 3D printing stuff.

[mmakay]

I was able to locate the deadrise measurements I read a while back. They were posted by a seemingly knowledgeable gent on RCG, so have no reason to doubt the accuracy.

TFL Rocket 650mm - 23 degrees.
TFL Pursuit 820mm - 25*
TFL Osprey 1060mm - 25*
Volantex Vector 70 610mm 20*
Volantex Angry Shark 720mm 23*
Joysway X Blaze 600mm 26*
Joysway Offshore Warrior 400mm 24*
Joysway Bullet 650mm 15*
Joysway Rocket/Barbwire XL 550mm 13*