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Thread: New Sonicwake V2 temp questions

  1. #1
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    Default New Sonicwake V2 temp questions

    I've been running with my kid his new Sonicwake V2. I am in the 6S team, as all my other boats are run on 6S. All stock, just sharpened the stock prop. We had avout 5-6 minutes of sports running. Graphene 100C 5000mAh 3S packs, 7mm AS150 connectors to ESC and batteries in a series (no harness). After 6 minutes, I checked the temps in the boat - ESC was 140F, Batteries were 110F, motor (water jacket) was 108F. All measure with a laser thermometer. Please see photos - I did what I would consider an upgrade on the cooling lines - easier and straighter in and out of the boat with a larger ID hose. How do these temperatures sound to you? I need to check as these temps seem hot for this set up.
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  2. #2
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    Are you timing your runs? 6 continueses minutes seems long. For that much time your temps on motor and batteries are really O K. Your speed control is getting up there though. Try it for 4 1/2 minutes and compare to the full 6 minutes. Have you checked your battery voltage after that much time? I can't believe you aren't over discharging them.

  3. #3
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    3.6V/cell. I was waiting for the low voltage cutoff, but just decided 6 mins was enough. I'll time it and prop down/lower pitch.

  4. #4
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    3.6V is too low. Aim for 3.8V
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    3.6V is too low. Aim for 3.8V
    Since when is 3.6 "too low"? 3.2 is the 'danger zone' (3.0 is 'dead'), which is why many set their LVC for 3.4 or 3.6. That leaves plenty to bring the boat in. For all of my ESCs with programmable LVC, I have all boats set at 3.6, all crawlers set at 3.2, and all others (race & bashing vehicles) set at 3.4.

    Boats under full throttle "pull" from the batteries much faster than other RCs...but, the moment the throttle is released, the pack's accrual usable voltage goes up. If you have an ESC set at 3.6, and (under full throttle) the LVC kicks in, upon releasing the throttle, if you were to check the battery, you'd easily discover it's 'actual' remaining voltage was probably in the 3.7-3.9 range (will vary, be depending on brand, to our, to more accurately, the quality & discharge rate of the cells)...which, again, leaves plenty to bring the boat in.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  6. #6
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    I time my runs by gut or the seat of my pants. To busy driving, to look at my watch and don't really trust LVC. Would much rather have too much left in the pack as compared to running it to low. I have always considered 3.6
    a little over discharged. I agree with fweasel mid 3.8's is best for a long battery life, and to keep them from over heating which leads to puffing.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Since when is 3.6 "too low"?
    Its basic Lipo battery chemistry. We're not talking about LVC cutoff settings. OP was asked what the voltage readings were on his cells when the boat came back. You're free to run your packs down to any level you see fit for you and your equipment.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  8. #8
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    A lot of people keep confusing measurements under load with 'resting' but there is a huge difference. LVC cutoff on the ESC at 3.2V is typically in the 3.6 to 3.7V range when resting, that is what you want.
    By all means, double-check with your setup as YMMV. Set ESC to 3.4V and come back right away on cutoff, measure the voltages with a lipo checker after ~ a couple of minutes. You can either lower or raise your ESC cut-off after that and repeat.
    Resting voltages should not go below 3.6V or performance will drop going forward (IR = Internal resistance will increase due to abuse).

    On temps, you are good, and I wouldn't change anything.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkflow View Post
    A lot of people keep confusing measurements under load with 'resting' but there is a huge difference. LVC cutoff on the ESC at 3.2V is typically in the 3.6 to 3.7V range when resting, that is what you want.
    By all means, double-check with your setup as YMMV. Set ESC to 3.4V and come back right away on cutoff, measure the voltages with a lipo checker after ~ a couple of minutes. You can either lower or raise your ESC cut-off after that and repeat.
    Resting voltages should not go below 3.6V or performance will drop going forward (IR = Internal resistance will increase due to abuse).

    On temps, you are good, and I wouldn't change anything.
    Exactly what I was trying to say/explain about battery/cell voltages. Tho, thankfully, someone (ie. you) did a better job explaining it than I did.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick1979 View Post
    I've been running with my kid his new Sonicwake V2. I am in the 6S team, as all my other boats are run on 6S. All stock, just sharpened the stock prop. We had avout 5-6 minutes of sports running. Graphene 100C 5000mAh 3S packs, 7mm AS150 connectors to ESC and batteries in a series (no harness). After 6 minutes, I checked the temps in the boat - ESC was 140F, Batteries were 110F, motor (water jacket) was 108F. All measure with a laser thermometer. Please see photos - I did what I would consider an upgrade on the cooling lines - easier and straighter in and out of the boat with a larger ID hose. How do these temperatures sound to you? I need to check as these temps seem hot for this set up.
    Dan at SMC informed me that the graphene batteries are not ideal for boats…. He said they do not dissipate the heat as well as the DV batteries do…. I know you were not asking about the batteries, but when I ran my Sonicwake V2 with a 6s 5200mah graphene lipo, they were exceptionally hot…. So I bought the batteries he suggested and the graphene will remain being used in my Mojave exb….
    I also believe his lipo alarms measure resting volts…. They won’t "sound off" unless the volts hold… I am running his lipo alarms in everyone of my rigs, and boats… I have them set to 3.6 volts…. Every time I remove my batteries, they are exactly at 3.6 volts….

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick1979 View Post
    I've been running with my kid his new Sonicwake V2. I am in the 6S team, as all my other boats are run on 6S. All stock, just sharpened the stock prop. We had avout 5-6 minutes of sports running. Graphene 100C 5000mAh 3S packs, 7mm AS150 connectors to ESC and batteries in a series (no harness). After 6 minutes, I checked the temps in the boat - ESC was 140F, Batteries were 110F, motor (water jacket) was 108F. All measure with a laser thermometer. Please see photos - I did what I would consider an upgrade on the cooling lines - easier and straighter in and out of the boat with a larger ID hose. How do these temperatures sound to you? I need to check as these temps seem hot for this set up.
    Hey checkout Ironclad rc YouTube channel, he has some great tips on how to keep the sonicwake cool
    Do you know what the biggest problem with the world is?
    That the Smartest people are full of doubts while the stupid ones are full of confidence.::tt2

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eyeopenher View Post
    Dan at SMC informed me that the graphene batteries are not ideal for boats…. He said they do not dissipate the heat as well as the DV batteries do…. I know you were not asking about the batteries, but when I ran my Sonicwake V2 with a 6s 5200mah graphene lipo, they were exceptionally hot…. So I bought the batteries he suggested and the graphene will remain being used in my Mojave exb….
    I also believe his lipo alarms measure resting volts…. They won’t "sound off" unless the volts hold… I am running his lipo alarms in everyone of my rigs, and boats… I have them set to 3.6 volts…. Every time I remove my batteries, they are exactly at 3.6 volts….
    Thank god I read your post just after I ordered a pair of the SMC graphenes for my Sonicwake V2. Fortunately I was able to cancel the order and get the DV's instead.

  13. #13
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    Very interesting about the graphene - are there any actual observations by users that can confirm this? I have graphene batteries and honestly nothing performs as good as graphene in my experience. I always read that one of the main advantages of graphene was that they do not overheat under load in the first place.

  14. #14
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    I run both SMC graphene and regular in my boats, same boat, slightly different mAh (6900 vs 7800 graphene, 3S). They are both equally warm after the runs (~130F with a temp gun), i.e. I couldn't tell a difference in this narrow sample size.
    Current peaks around 220A, running these in pairs as 6S.

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