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Thread: Phil Thomas Stealth 45 Q Sport Build

  1. #1
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    Default Phil Thomas Stealth 45 Q Sport Build

    Hi All,

    A search for build threads on this hydro didn't yield much so now that mine is complete I'll post it to share ideas with any future builders. Jim V and Jim S both run these at HOTMBC and although I started as a cat guy I have strayed into monos and now hydros for '22. I have a Pete's first BP LSH build and another full P BP in the works along with a classic N2 shovelnose.

    For starters I ordered the hull less hatch cover because I like a very minimal low-profile appearance. A thin ABS sheet was taped on top to duplicate the hatch curvature. Frecote is used for a release agent. Please excuse the bench mess. I am working on multiple projects between epoxy cure times, and on a scrap of plywood until the new hobby bench is set up.
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  2. #2
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    Initial layup is 6oz. glass cloth, the shaped blue foam, and another layer of 6oz. glass.
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  3. #3
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    After removal and trimming to fit the foam was excavated with great difficulty and a layer of 3k CF applied inside for appearance and rigidity. Flotation block was added later.
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  4. #4
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    The motor mount was dropped through the inner layer and foam to sit flush on the outer hull skin along with the end of the can and jacket. This lowered CG, allowed less shaft curvature, and yielded a stronger bond and hull.

    Aluminum water tubes were glued into the hull for less silicone tubing. Water jacket has had it's threaded holes filled with epoxy and alu tubing bonded in from the side for most direct flow possible and a full 4mmID after the rudder nipple.

    Batts are 4S4000 Rhinos. 5000s would have fit, but 4000s are cheaper, lighter, and fit better. I bought them at a great price a while back and they reviewed well in RCG testing. I skimp a little on my usual CNHL G+ pack preference with 2P because the current demands are shared by 2 packs. Less $$ and weight.
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  5. #5
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    When I mocked up all components I found I could not not quite achieve the full CG range provided on the build instructions with the lighter 4000 packs in the factory pockets slightly enlarged in height. The hull was a little tail-heavy. Therefore I opted to side-mount the servo more forward.

    RX mounted as near as possible to the antenna for maximum antenna height and range and mid-height in the top for greatest chance of staying dry should water intrude.
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  6. #6
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    ESC is a converted Castle XLX. OSE 8mm connectors are my favorites. I use these as bullets as well less the housings.
    Water dumps immediately from flush hull exits. Bullets will get another layer of shrink tubing and all water connections will be reinforced like the ESC inlet nipple later.
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  7. #7
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    The 5 leading edges were capped with 1/2 sections of the appropriate-sized CF tube for improved strength, appearance, and aero with minimal weight gain.

    The narrow-chord wing received a formed CF up-elevator for increased downforce up front.

    These will all be faired-in with epoxy filler. The up-angle looks more severe than it is and it smoothed nicely later when it was properly tapered at the trailing edge.
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    Last edited by Mike W; 01-28-2022 at 05:05 PM.

  8. #8
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    Hull airspace was filled with cut foam both within the hull and within the tub. Hopefully if it ever does swamp it will float level and not nose-up.
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  9. #9
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    Filler work topside to smooth hull for primer. It looks like a lot but is still very thin even at the thickest points. This allowed some surfacing effect for a straighter finish and buried most of the plentiful pinholes always present in an epoxy-glass hull.
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  10. #10
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    Filler work on the underside with ride surfaces trued and sharpened.
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  11. #11
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    2K primer and spot putty over the pinholes that inevitable sneak by with epoxy-glass hulls. A few did still sneak by my old eyes. Paint will follow. Raceboat. A showboat would have needed one last coat of primer.
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  12. #12
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    Added CF gussets for 3mm SS thread inserts and hatch cover screws.
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  13. #13
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    Outboard rudder bracket holes were difficult to access and not flat enough for a nut on the inside so I added threaded inserts here also.
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  14. #14
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    With the exception of a few more Orange Crush and Otto RC Marine decals on order with Callie the Stealth 45 is complete and ready for trial runs at the next HOTMBC meet.

    Hardware is straightforward and per Phil's instructions with the exception of using the longer mono rudder stand-off since the shorter hydro version rudder was unavailable when I ordered. May as well test it since I lean toward greater rudder setbacks than most.

    Motor is TP4060 1750 KV and I will run a X646 prop. I'm a high-RPM small-prop guy. Here's how my T Sniper runs at 350 amps 1000KV with a detongued X455:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ia5Uoo7p1OI

    So my experience says a 55mm is way to much for this little hydro. We shall see! Test reports and vids after the meet!
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  15. #15
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    Nice!!
    Gold Spilo

  16. #16
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    Wow! Looks great Mike!

  17. #17
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    Btw, that sniper absolutely rips!!!

  18. #18
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    Mike
    I should have got you to build my twin CAT.
    Your Hydro build only took 32 minutes
    Looks GOOD,- Nice WORK!

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    Mike
    I should have got you to build my twin CAT.
    Your Hydro build only took 32 minutes
    Looks GOOD,- Nice WORK!

    Larry
    You gotta use the fast epoxy!

  20. #20
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    The new cowl looks good, have you done a mold of it so you can make more? I may have to get a FE Stealth running.

  21. #21
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    Not yet but I'll send you one when I do!

  22. #22
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    Oh forgot to post gotta few Orange Crush decals on her:
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  23. #23
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    Very nice! How was the windshield done?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  24. #24
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    I got it third try. Used the masking tape template method then cut from vinyl with scissors. Curves were too severe for a one-piece to conform so I had to cut it up the middle and then hide the imperfect seam with a small 1/8? strip.

  25. #25
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    First test runs completed today! It was extremely fast and a bit flighty on the top end, but the water could have been less rough too. I lowered strut, angled fin, and moved CG forward in small steps and saw steady improvement. Someone grabbed an awesome pic!
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  26. #26
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    Test log slightly rough water but still probably in the 70's. Will get more solid info after nailing my setup. Currently TP4060 1750KV, Y547:
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