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Thread: New Builder: DYMotorshop 750mm Mono - High Deep V "Jack"... watch me learn!

  1. #1

    Default New Builder: DYMotorshop 750mm Mono - High Deep V "Jack"... watch me learn!

    Hello everyone.

    I decided it was time to pull the trigger on a hull-up build; I wanted to build a real carbon self built monster.

    I researched quite a bit: I wanted something that could crash through light waves here on local lakes in Saint Louis, and still capitalize when it's flat.
    So, I figured enough playing with plastic hulls and buy into a real world "all 'rounder". I selected this hull and plan on running it with 6S power that I already have great batteries for and chargers for.

    Meet "Jack". as in; "Jack of All Trades".

    This is a DYMotorshop 750mm "High Deep V" Carbon Kevlar Hull. I'll be taking setup guidance from builds like the (OSE Carried) Delta Force 29.

    pFci0j6.jpg

    cXXQ2we.jpg

    Goals:
    60-70mph in SAW/6S mode
    40-50mph in "4S Basher" mode (aka "choppy water mode")/5min runtime per 4S (graphene) Pack

    Parts already decided:
    6S LiPo Power (existing EC5 Fitted 3S 50C 5200mah packs)
    4S Graphene Power (existing EC5 Fitted 100C 5000mah packs)
    36mm "power" motor (ordered a SSS 3682 1650kv this morning)
    OSE 36mm fully adjustable carbon motor mount (ordered this morning)
    OSE 150A Raider ESC (ordered this morning)
    Spectrum STX3 Radio/Reciever (already have)
    Carbon Battery and ESC Trays (ordered this morning)

    What I need help with:
    How do I decide on a flex shaft? how do i measure this? what parts do i need?
    How do I decide on a stinger setup? or should I do a strut?
    Should i consider a flood tube?
    How do i determine motor placement?

    I've never built a RC Driveline on my own, how do i decipher shaft size and prop shaft size and teflon tube size vs stuffing tube size and more!?

    How do i pick prop sizes? I figure i'll have a basher type prop and a top speed prop, how do I pick these? (I have some CNC props in 40mm, 42mm and 43mm to start)

    Thanks in advance!

    Z4oKx7s.jpg

    Alex Narconis
    (background in electronics/computers and fiberglass, mostly new to the drivetrain part)
    Last edited by autolex; 10-20-2021 at 09:22 AM. Reason: clarification
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    319

    Default

    for flex shaft 3/16 ,stinger and or struder(that's a stut and rudder in one) OSE has it all and propshaft also 3/16 for a big choice of props (stick to ABC or prather and octura)start with 43mm and then go a bit bigger

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    122

    Default

    How do I decide on a flex shaft? how do i measure this? what parts do i need? Based on the power and speed you are talking about 3/16 sounds like the best option.
    How do I decide on a stinger setup? or should I do a strut? Stinger seems to be the way most go with Mono's. I'd look for one that has vertical adjustment if possible. Struts ultimately allow for more adjustment.
    Should i consider a flood tube? I would do a sealed flood tube/box setup. Should be able to look at some other builds on the box design.
    How do i determine motor placement? Use the 1/3 center of gravity method. Place the motor, ESC, and LiPos in there. the other consideration is the flex shaft/tube angle. Generally putting the motor further forward will help allow a mild angle for your flex shaft. You also want to check with the boat manufacturer and see if they have any sort of setup sheet to help guide you... Make sure to setup the boat in a way that you can move the LiPos forwards or backwards to further adjust the center of gravity.

    Octura X series props have been really good on my Mono and that is what I would recommend. I have a Dasbota x series prop and it is extremely efficient.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    325

    Default

    You can always take a peek at Oxidean marine to get a general idea and probably some details. I believe it's the identical hull.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    122

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    JkFlow's advice above is a great point.
    Looking at the pictures of the Oxide marine Dominator in carbon (that model had better pics)
    It appears he uses this setup butted up against the transom https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...rod=tfl-523b69
    Then has an battery tray in front of that down the center.

  6. #6

    Default

    Great point jkflow! thanks! I'll be taking a look at oxidean and other DF Builds (here too!)

    is there a set of guidelines for how to make a stuffing tube and how to bend it and how to make a flood tube/mount a strut?
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Could buy the dominator components from oxide marine and then follow his guide video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAMU_ZfsqWM

    For a good adjustable flooded stuffing tube setup on a mono this one from Tyler is a great example with some good pictures.
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...-Target-100mph

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    325

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    Stuffing tube is very easy to do but even easier to get it wrong.
    On a mono, it ends at the hull, the stinger takes over from that point. Needs to come out straight if you extend it indefinitely.
    I would bend it before you cut it to length.
    Do NOT kink the tube, buy some cheap tube benders in the correct size. I suggest checking OSE store for tube size utilizing a teflon tube.
    Bend a little, dry-fit and bend some more until it's great, not just 'good enough', it will never be perfect.

    My experience, measure, eyeball, dry-fit, sleep it over and so on. 2 days of prep for 2 min of work is about the right amount of prep.

  9. #9

    Default

    Well I went ahead and ordered a driveline based on all of the collective advice i've gotten here: let me know if you see anything amiss.

    Order.jpg
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    319

    Default

    looks good

  11. #11

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    Motor and mount along with ESC and mount showed up today. going to have to play around with where I think the batteries need to go to get some adjustability around the 1/3 CoG guideline.

    Capture2345.jpg

    Need to cut off the too-small 4mm SSS factory connectors and put on some OSE 6mm connectors.

    Capture1213216196851.jpg

    As seen above waiting on servo and mount and driveline parts before much progress will occur.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    325

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    Nothing wrong with your list but a couple lessons learned, use a motor mount where you can change the motor from the top, worth the extra coin. Else, invest in a flexible screwdriver. Money wise, that equals out.
    The hatch nuts/bolts will not work well, and might not want to use them at all.

  13. #13

    Default

    that's good advice, i'll take it, thanks!

    I have a pretty serviceable fully-adjustable TFL mount, so i can slide the rear ring completely off and then even point the front of the motor up if need be. Hoping this is enough!
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  14. #14

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    It looks like all the parts came today but i'm going on a (real world) raft fishing expedition tomorrow through sunday in lower MO/upper AR. Should be fun!

    I'll put some pictures up here next week as I start mocking things up.

    Thanks for the help everyone!
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  15. #15

    Default

    I think that I have everything that I need now except for a servo shaft through-hull seal.

    2021-11-08 (8).jpeg2021-11-08 (3).jpeg2021-11-08 (6).jpeg

    I mocked up where all the stern hardware needs to go: I think the trip tabs need to move further away from the strut, correct? is there a guideline for setting this up? (using carpet tape here, can move easily)

    2021-11-08 (7).jpeg2021-11-08 (1).jpeg

    Also: I mocked up the hatch bolts I picked and I think that I can make them work with a bit of carbon plate backing that I have sitting around. I already marked up a stern doubler as well and my roll of carbon-kevlar will be here this week for my inlay.

    Any guidance on having the motor forward of the esc? should I move the motor VERY far forward for any reason? (to get batteries lower, lower CoG?)

    Any overall "Layout" guidance anywhere?
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    7,080

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    A few thoughts looking at your mock up:
    1) what depth do you have the center line of your strut? Recommend 1/4-3/16 inch above keel.
    2) I believe in keeping center of mass as compact as possible (not spreading out the motor, esc, batts too much.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  17. #17

    Default

    Center line of where the shaft goes through? I will measure it...
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  18. #18

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    So I made a little bit of progress today/yesterday.

    I filled the nose with approx 1oz epoxy with chopped CF for additional durability.

    In addition: I cut a transom doubler and epoxied it in as well.

    2021-11-11.jpg 2021-11-11 (1).jpeg

    After this setup I started attacking the hatch bolts. I've used this method for at least 15 years when securing things to fiberglass (I ran a car stereo shop in college, I cannot tell you how many brain cells I killed doing custom fiberglass work).

    The basics are: bridge the corner, put it in compression (not shear in any way), tack with cyanoacrylate, then cover it with epoxy for a permanent mount. (I'll do the epoxy when I cut my deck support ring this week)

    2021-11-11 (2).jpeg 2021-11-11 (3).jpeg 2021-11-11 (7).jpeg

    As you can see it gets the threaded inserts almost all the way to the corners of the hatch.

    To keep this from breaking, after I drill the hole I usually glue a thin washer on either side of the fiberglass/CF and put a piece of aquarium tubing on the threads as a "bumper" to help dampen the torque/bumps.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  19. #19

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    (5 image limit)

    A few more pictures for illustrations sake.

    2021-11-11 (5).jpeg2021-11-11 (6).jpeg2021-11-11 (8).jpeg

    Just trying to show the thread path here with these ^^^

    Next steps: Cut the CF ring for the deck support (copying something i saw on fweasels outerlimits build) and actually measure out everything for the stern mockup.

    Any guidance on offsetting the driveline to the side a few mm to combat torque roll? I saw Jesse saying i should do 1/4-3/16" above keel for the driveline centerline, that seems doable.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  20. #20

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    Well my wife went and fell asleep with our 4 year old while rocking her to sleep...

    So I went ahead and drilled the hatch bolt holes. Will clean these holes up and epoxy some stainless washers to the top side tomorrow.

    2021-11-11 (9).jpeg 2021-11-11 (11).jpeg 2021-11-11 (10).jpeg
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  21. #21

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    I went ahead and epoxied the corner trusses in and put some gasket around the lid and put some fuel hose on the threads of the hatch bolts to keep them attached.

    Capture.jpg

    Time to start figuring out the driveline and motor placement.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    7,080

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    Torque roll: I deal with it by offsetting batteries a little to port side. It will be less noticeable with smaller props, so I like adjustability.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  23. #23

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    Figured out the layout and mounted my motor mount and ESC mount in the hull (as low as was possible).

    sadfasdfsaf.jpg

    This should make the flex shaft/stuffing tube quite short (7"-ish flex) but should be the best for weight distribution.

    On to figuring out stinger placement so I can figure out stuffing tube mount and length.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  24. #24

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    Drilled the (first) big scary hole in the hull today.

    I cut some brass tube to length after I was happy with the bend and the alignment with the coupler (shoved an old piece of flex in the coupler to ensure concentricity).

    Tacked it in place with hot glue so I can remove the motor and fit the carbon flex tube support and seal the entry on the stern.

    2021-11-17 (1).jpeg 2021-11-17.jpeg

    Took Jesse's advice and drilled the centerline/flex tube hole centered just over 0.25", the TFL stinger I have is fully adjustable so this should end up perfect.

    Next: on to mounting and locating of stern hardware and cutting the deck support and epoxying it in.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    146

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    Nice hull autolex! If you want to use a GPS, you will need a non-carbon fibre hatch part, because the GPS signal will not go through carbon fibre.
    Looking forward for the updates.

    By the way: I use the SSS3674 1650kV on 6S for my tunnel hull. It spins a 43mm prop with ease. Very happy with the performance!

  26. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Jan View Post
    Nice hull autolex! If you want to use a GPS, you will need a non-carbon fibre hatch part, because the GPS signal will not go through carbon fibre.
    Looking forward for the updates.

    By the way: I use the SSS3674 1650kV on 6S for my tunnel hull. It spins a 43mm prop with ease. Very happy with the performance!
    Thanks Dirk! I plan on putting a 1/4"-20 (camera) thread T nut on the hatch for mounting things like go-pro or GPS, I appreciate the reminder to do this!
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  27. #27

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    I cut my deck support ring and epoxied it in (in three different pours, only way to get it to stay where I wanted)

    2021-11-18.jpeg

    Cut a Flex tube support and epoxied it in too.

    2021-11-18 (1).jpeg

    Going to attempt my inlay tomorrow, i somehow managed to guess the weave and weight that DYMotorshop uses nearly exactly!

    2021-11-18 (2).jpg

    How do I setup these battery trays I bought?

    2021-11-18 (3).jpg

    There's 4 super thin ovals that came with the trays, do i just glue them to one side as a spacer/"legs"?

    Thanks in advance, you all have been so helpful!
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

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    The tabs get glued to the bottom of the tray to act like spacers so that you can still pass velcro straps underneath them. Rough up the mating surfaces to get better adhesion.

    I made and installed a deck support nearly identical to that for my SV43 hull. I tacked it in place with CA, ran CF tape across the back edges, them used thickened epoxy along the front seams. Using cloth on the back sides helps prevent the epoxy from running underneath the brace, and thickening the mixture lets you glue more seams at once without it sagging in directions you don't want it to go. I left a weep hole at the bottom near the keel to let water drain out more easily if it got past the brace.

    PXL_20210815_160109002.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    The tabs get glued to the bottom of the tray to act like spacers so that you can still pass velcro straps underneath them. Rough up the mating surfaces to get better adhesion.

    I made and installed a deck support nearly identical to that for my SV43 hull. I tacked it in place with CA, ran CF tape across the back edges, them used thickened epoxy along the front seams. Using cloth on the back sides helps prevent the epoxy from running underneath the brace, and thickening the mixture lets you glue more seams at once without it sagging in directions you don't want it to go. I left a weep hole at the bottom near the keel to let water drain out more easily if it got past the brace.

    PXL_20210815_160109002.jpg
    Thanks Fweasel! Your build has been an inspiration for me, so the deck support is exactly what i was trying to copy.

    I plan on drilling a weep hole once the epoxy has been cured for a few days (I plan on putting some 2lb foam in front of the support for floatation)

    I will be doing something similar to your CF tape: I plan on wrapping my inlay down over the bottom and sides of the support.

    where are you getting your thickening agent? is it just chopped CF? CF powder?
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    IL
    Posts
    4,100

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    I thicken West System G-Flex epoxy with their 406 Silica powder. You can get to to peanut butter consistency if you add enough.

    I'm not sure if I understand how your inlay will interface with the deck brace. If the inlay is going to wrap up the front face and across the sides, be sure to cut the appropriate relief notches in your paper template so that it lays flat on the brace and doesn't buch up in the corners. It will lay flatter, be stronger, and more importantly, look cleaner.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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