new water jacket

[drdarren]

there seems to be a lot of commentary about using the water jacket and how careful you need to be. has anyone tried the water jacket from kintecracing.com. if so how does it compare? is it easy to install? any leak issues?

thanks

darren

[Capt. Crash]

I have it but haven't installed it yet because I got the stock one to quit leaking and don't want to mess with it again. When time comes to use it I will post. I love the way the one here at OSE looks and how the elbow shaped fittings keep the lines but I'm wondering if straight fittings will give noticeably better water flow. I will need all the cooling I can get come summer here!

[Steven Vaccaro]

Our jackets use the 90 degree fittings and larger o-rings to increase the water volume inside the jacket. They will be well worth the wait. I will have another 20 coming in this Wednesday or Thursday.

[detox]

Our jackets use the 90 degree fittings and larger o-rings to increase the water volume inside the jacket. They will be well worth the wait. I will have another 20 coming in this Wednesday or Thursday.

Yea...it sounds like OSE's will be the better of the two. I like the "more water volume" idea.

[Kfoss1]

The Kintec jacket is machined on the inside to allow more volume, so either jacket will do the job nicely. Just comes down to what style you like

[Steven Vaccaro]

Whats the inside diameter? The Kintec orings are the small diameter ones. We used the larger ones allowing more water inside. Also another reason we picked 90 degree elbows was the outlets can be mounted on top of the motor, making the battery access easier.

[Kfoss1]

Steven the ID is 40mm and it has straight inlets, but the elbow style is sweet on yours.

[RiverRat]

Perhaps I can shed some light on the subject.
The size of the o-ring has absolutely nothing to do with the water volume inside the can.
The first proto types had a 2mm o-ring which we found to be to flexible which would allow them to grab and fray on the end cap. On average you could only use them 2-3 times on and off before they started to fail. So the design was changed to a 1mm ring which can pop on and off numerous times without failure.
The Id of Kintec's has a programmed dia of 1.6 (never measured one no need to) which is .1 larger then the stock UL-1 jacket which measures 1.5
It weighs .7oz which is .3oz lighter then the UL-1 jacket.
Not going to battle over this just stating facts.

[HRC]

Steven here at OSE and I spend many hours on R&D and testing to produce a quality cooling jacket for a given motor at a fair price. Many factors come into play: Type of motor, heat displacement at max. amp with gpm water flow ( to much flow is as bad as to little) to name a couple things.
I think you will be happy with the UL-1 jacket as well.
Enjoy and have fun.
Thanks
Dave

[Doug Smock]

Steven here at OSE and I spend many hours on R&D and testing to produce a quality cooling jacket for a given motor at a fair price. Many factors come into play: Type of motor, heat displacement at max. amp with gpm water flow ( to much flow is as bad as to little) to name a couple things.
I think you will be happy with the UL-1 jacket as well.
Enjoy and have fun.
Thanks
Dave

You do fine work Dave, I've never had a issue of any kind with your jackets.

Keep up the good work and thanks for meeting our needs!!

Doug

[Jeff Wohlt]

I do not see how too much flow is a bad thing. Cooler water over the can is better. If 40 degree water stays on the can all the time and is exchanging it would certainly be better than water warming then exiting. As long as the can stays full the cooler water will continue to cool better.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I do not see how too much flow is a bad thing. Cooler water over the can is better. If 40 degree water stays on the can all the time and is exchanging it would certainly be better than water warming then exiting. As long as the can stays full the cooler water will continue to cool better.

Jeff do a search for some of Jay T's responses to that and you will understand why its true.

[Jeff Wohlt]

I understand in past days about the water has to have time to absorb the heat. I was thinking back when we used coils that it would make sense.

I guess the only real proof would be a test...slow water flow vs high flow of the same temp water and then hit the motor with a temp gun.

I do not see absorbing has anything to do with it...it is about maintaining a constant water temp on the can at all times....the cooler the better. The water is to carry the heat away so as long as the water is exchanged and the water temp is maintained lower then your can will be cooler. At least that seems logical to me.

Thanks, Steven. I will look up his thread.

I also agree with Reddy:

Simple test for you to see heat transfer between metal and water increase with water flow.

Fill two pans of water half full. Place both burners on high and time both for five minutes. Continually stir one to simulate a higher flow rate of water against metal and stir the other, once a minute. Check start temp and end temp with with your infrared temp guns.

Results:

Pan water (slow water flow) start temp 68.5 F, final temp145F after five minutes

Pan water (faster water flow) start temp 68.0F, final temp 170F after five minutes.

Faster moving water against the metal has a better heat transfer rate, so increasing the water flow will increase cooling of the motor and controller.

[HRC]

You do fine work Dave, I've never had a issue of any kind with your jackets.

Keep up the good work and thanks for meeting our needs!!

Doug

Thanks Doug. Your remarks makes the effort all worth while
Dave

[egneg]

I have an OSE WJ and it was a snap to install and works great. I listed the stock WJ w/new o-rings in the swap shop and out of 100+ views only managed to get 1 less than favorable remark and a rebuttal.

[HRC]

Jeff, I do know your line of thinking seems logical as it did for me. After doing a lot of testing taking temp. readings of water in, water out and front and rear end bells of motors all at the same time. At some point the discharge temp of water will start to drop telling me to much flow. Not removing heat as well.
Dave

[Jeff Wohlt]

Thanks, Dave.

Pressure rates are different than flow rates....I think.

As we all probably know. Cooling the can is good but the real damage is the heat in the rotor. Wish we could cool that part!!

Has anyone done a check on the front plate coolers that are offered? Neat but not sure it does anygood...or does it? Do we need both?

[Capt. Crash]

All this is very interesting....but....there is NO heat issue...at least not in my boat with the stock water jacket....and I've actually run the *rap out of mine!

Back to the original question...has anyone actually tried the Kintec offering? How do the temps compare with the stock jacket? That would require a jacket change at the pond between runs...keeping all other factors the same.