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Thread: Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

  1. #1
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    Default Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

    Here goes a new thread guys on looking at the Castle XLX2 for model boats. Beta testers have been reporting 400A, 500A and even 600A running with this new ESC and failures are not that common. This is an 8S rated ESC which power just about anything we can throw at it and you get a 100% potted/waterproofed ESC with Castle excellent logging. I watched several guys run them at a recent TT in Huntsville and was sufficiently impressed to pull the trigger and look at modifying one for marine use. So here goes the details.

    Basic images:
    Castle XLX2 Pic 1.jpg

    Castle XLX2 Pic 2.jpg

    Castle XLX2 Pic 4.jpg

    How it stacks up against the King:

    Castle XLX2 Pic 5.jpg

    Castle XLX2 Pic 6.jpg

    Cont'd
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Cont'd:

    Castle XLX2 Pic 13.jpg
    Fan Removed.
    Castle XLX2 Pic 14.jpg
    Fan shroud removed:
    Castle XLX2 Pic 15.jpg

    Castle XLX2 Pic 17.jpg
    Fins removed.
    Castle XLX2 Pic 23.jpg

    The fins come off pretty easy with a side to side bending of a pair of pliers. A small rib is left over which can be sanded down.

    Cont'd
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Some elbow grease later the stock heat sink is sanded fairly flat and ready for a water cooled heat sink to be glued on.

    Castle XLX2 Pic 25.jpg

    I have designed a two part water cooler for the XLX2 and am working with Gabe at Stump Fabrication to make a small production run of coolers.
    I'll work on a "how to" convert the ESC to water cooling after I check the fitment.

    Castle XLX2 cooler.jpg

    Hopefully this all pans out and we will have a great 4 cell, 6 cell and 8 cell controller for just about any motor combination. Castle are working on an HV version but no dates yet that I know of.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Thank you Tyler for doing this. Looks like a winner!
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    Awesome. I have a converted Mamba XL2 that has always performed well for me and would love to use more Castle ESC's in other builds. It's also compatible with the Futaba telemetry which would be pretty cool to have without the need for external sensors.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    I'm guessing, the mounting holes are perfectly aligned with the ESCs original fan mount screw holes. Yea, I know what I just said could easily bring up a dozen innuendos...lol


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

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    Have they sorted out the issues with them burning up when attached to low impedance motors now?

    I heard good reports of the ESCs capability on release, but it wasn't long before repots of burnouts in use and on plugin came out. I have lost a castle on plugin myself in the past, and it scared me off. Last I heard Castle were saying don't use one with high KV motors or any D winds.

    For my use this is a SAWs ESC, and all my SAWS motors are D winds that are high KV.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  9. #9
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    Paul,

    I know Castle struggled with the early release of the new XLX2 and had to recall a number of ESC's but I believe that has all been corrected. There are guys running these in 1/5 drag cars running absurd KV's. These are motors like TP4070's, LMT 3060's and Neu 1530's. Even the old Schulzes struggled with the 1D's. It sounds like Castle has improved the commutation control and is able to handle the hot winds. I sold all my 1D, 0.5D and 0.5Y motors years ago since no ESC would get along with them otherwise I would test one for you.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Tyler,
    Thanks for the info and while reading I thought a great project for Gabe at Stumpfab. and you were ahead of us there. One of the hardest questions for new boaters is what ESC for high power 200+ amps. I also like Castle and this seems to be an easy conversion. One question is it doesn't look to have the usual "cap bank". Are you going to add caps?
    I know 8S (S class) is not a popular racing class (other than scale) but I like it over Q. Everyone that runs P or P/L has 4 cells that allows the move up to "S" with their existing batteries.
    Keep the info coming.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  11. #11
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    Well dang, I was hoping this would be my competitive secret in boating. Prepare to see lots of new records and broken drivelines!!!

    The XLX 2 is an amazing ESC and runs very cool. Looking forward to your cooling block Tyler!

    Some early production XLX2 ESCs had shorting issues into the base of the esc due to not enough isolating thermal paste used on the bottom board into the lower aluminum ESC case.

    For reference on smaller boats the Mamba Monster X 8s esc is very close in power with a very compact size. The MMX8s will run a bit warmer, but still runs much cooler than the XLX (original) or the MM2 ESCs. One thing to note is that the MMX8s stops reading/logging the amperage at 400a, but will go beyond as it is not amperage limited.

    I had set a 1/7 scale Arrma Limitless world record on 2s at 86 mph with the MMX8s ESC and a TP4050.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    HUFFRACING has been running a couple of the xlx2 esc for a few months now and have had great success with them. At the record trials Tyler spoke about, in my P-limited mono on some SAW runs, we were pulling 414 amps (2575kv and abc 2015-17-45) and the controller got up to only 118*F. And this was after 3 or 4 passes. Our Q mono was pulling a tad under 400 and it stays cool also.

    I have converted to water cooled similar to like Tyler is doing, only I leave some of the fins breaking off only the ones on the outside edge. Then I make a water box to go over the fins that are left. I feel putting the water directly on the fins get the best cooling. I had a couple at the shop that I just converted for a friend, and have more coming in tomorrow. I'll get a few pictures to show how I'm doing it.

    I have also converted a few of the smaller x-8s. This one is a better fit in a limited boat and pulls 250 amps without a hickup. It does seem to get a little hotter, but it's about half the size of the big one.

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    What Castle connector size is potted into the motor side board?

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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    What Castle connector size is potted into the motor side board?
    XLX2 is 8mm and the mmx8s is 6.5mm

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    Quote Originally Posted by HTVboats View Post
    Tyler,
    Thanks for the info and while reading I thought a great project for Gabe at Stumpfab. and you were ahead of us there. One of the hardest questions for new boaters is what ESC for high power 200+ amps. I also like Castle and this seems to be an easy conversion. One question is it doesn't look to have the usual "cap bank". Are you going to add caps?
    I know 8S (S class) is not a popular racing class (other than scale) but I like it over Q. Everyone that runs P or P/L has 4 cells that allows the move up to "S" with their existing batteries.
    Keep the info coming.
    Mic
    The XLX2 has excellent ripple suppression. Very few people find that they need an additional cap pack.
    The MMX8s, however often does need the extra capacitors. Especially on 8s.

    I recommend running without initially and pull the data logs. If the ripple voltage is high then add the cap pack.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by HTVboats View Post
    Tyler,
    Thanks for the info and while reading I thought a great project for Gabe at Stumpfab. and you were ahead of us there. One of the hardest questions for new boaters is what ESC for high power 200+ amps. I also like Castle and this seems to be an easy conversion. One question is it doesn't look to have the usual "cap bank". Are you going to add caps?
    I know 8S (S class) is not a popular racing class (other than scale) but I like it over Q. Everyone that runs P or P/L has 4 cells that allows the move up to "S" with their existing batteries.
    Keep the info coming.
    Mic
    Mic,
    The caps are on the opposite side of the board buried in the potted section of the case. I believe the XLX2 has a soft-start (anti-spark) circuit built in so no more vaporizing your terminals when plugging in high cell count batteries. One important note is we likely cannot use external cap bank when there is a soft-start circuit as high inrush from the external cap bank will cause the soft-start FET to fail. More to come there.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    HUFFRACING has been running a couple of the xlx2 esc for a few months now and have had great success with them. At the record trials Tyler spoke about, in my P-limited mono on some SAW runs, we were pulling 414 amps (2575kv and abc 2015-17-45) and the controller got up to only 118*F. And this was after 3 or 4 passes. Our Q mono was pulling a tad under 400 and it stays cool also.

    I have converted to water cooled similar to like Tyler is doing, only I leave some of the fins breaking off only the ones on the outside edge. Then I make a water box to go over the fins that are left. I feel putting the water directly on the fins get the best cooling. I had a couple at the shop that I just converted for a friend, and have more coming in tomorrow. I'll get a few pictures to show how I'm doing it.

    I have also converted a few of the smaller x-8s. This one is a better fit in a limited boat and pulls 250 amps without a hickup. It does seem to get a little hotter, but it's about half the size of the big one.
    Don,
    I thought about your design of leaving the fins in place and building a cooling shell to cover the fins, but then you need a good seal to the baseplate. If we came up with a good clamped cover to hold the shell to the ESC this would be reliable and safe. However, I would be cautious that water pressure will blow the shell off and cause more problems. That's what I decided to make mine a 2 piece enclosed design with an O-ring seal. Have you had any problems with sealing yours?

    BTW, 414A with a P-limited motor is a new high watermark!

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  18. #18
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    Tyler,

    Great information, looking forward to trying one out in my rigger.
    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Some elbow grease later the stock heat sink is sanded fairly flat and ready for a water cooled heat sink to be glued on.

    Castle XLX2 Pic 25.jpg

    I have designed a two part water cooler for the XLX2 and am working with Gabe at Stump Fabrication to make a small production run of coolers.
    I'll work on a "how to" convert the ESC to water cooling after I check the fitment.

    Castle XLX2 cooler.jpg

    Hopefully this all pans out and we will have a great 4 cell, 6 cell and 8 cell controller for just about any motor combination. Castle are working on an HV version but no dates yet that I know of.

    -Tyler

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    Tyler...once the water block design is considered, and testing complete, do you have an approximate time frame before they'll be available for purchase? I dislike Hobbywing (bad customer service, and rude people...at least here in the U.S.), and have been wanting to figure out a way to use Castle ESCs in my boats (several of my land vehicles are running Castle).

    Just curious, but, are you and/or is anyone else aware of marine conversations for other Castle ESCs? If I could replace the SeaKing 60, 120, and 180 ESCs in my boats with Castle ESCs (or something equally good, if not better...especially in regards to the SeaKing 180s), I'd be happier.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Tyler...once the water block design is considered, and testing complete, do you have an approximate time frame before they'll be available for purchase? I dislike Hobbywing (bad customer service, and rude people...at least here in the U.S.), and have been wanting to figure out a way to use Castle ESCs in my boats (several of my land vehicles are running Castle).

    Just curious, but, are you and/or is anyone else aware of marine conversations for other Castle ESCs? If I could replace the SeaKing 60, 120, and 180 ESCs in my boats with Castle ESCs (or something equally good, if not better...especially in regards to the SeaKing 180s), I'd be happier.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
    I am not aware of other marine conversions for other Castle ESC's. All of them are homemade typically. I'll take a look at a MMX8 if I can find one reasonably priced to take apart and design a watercooled heat sink for it. I am hoping StumpFab will have the cooler available in several weeks.

    I will also see if OSE is interested in building up a stock of modified ESC's ready for sale.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    I've been running the 8s all summer but at very low amps.
    Noisy person

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    I will also see if OSE is interested in building up a stock of modified ESC's ready for sale.
    Now THAT would be fantastic. If Steve sees a good probability in them selling well...and, honestly, I don't see why they wouldn't...he could very will be interested. If he does, I'd guarantee to buy at least two.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

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    I would buy a couple as well..........

    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Now THAT would be fantastic. If Steve sees a good probability in them selling well...and, honestly, I don't see why they wouldn't...he could very will be interested. If he does, I'd guarantee to buy at least two.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

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    Tyler,

    No problems with leakage as of yet. I glue the cap on with gray automotive silicone. It was recommended by my dirt track racing neighbors, where my shop is located. They use it to seal the intake manifold on their race cars. He sez it's the strongest, and that they have to use a pry bar to get the manifolds off. It seems pretty strong. I guess that I could put compressed air into it to see what it takes to blow it off. I'll try that.

    "BTW, 414A with a P-limited motor is a new high watermark!" I was shocked to see it puling that much, and it did it several times and just kept on going. We had a good bit of smoke after one pass, but I put a couple of fresh packs in it and did it again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Don,
    I thought about your design of leaving the fins in place and building a cooling shell to cover the fins, but then you need a good seal to the baseplate. If we came up with a good clamped cover to hold the shell to the ESC this would be reliable and safe. However, I would be cautious that water pressure will blow the shell off and cause more problems. That's what I decided to make mine a 2 piece enclosed design with an O-ring seal. Have you had any problems with sealing yours?

    BTW, 414A with a P-limited motor is a new high watermark!

    -Tyler
    Say What!!!???
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    Add me to that list as well...in a heart beat.
    Reesor Boat Works

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Here goes a new thread guys on looking at the Castle XLX2 for model boats. Beta testers have been reporting 400A, 500A and even 600A running with this new ESC and failures are not that common.
    ...
    What is a little strange for me is that I find an amp-rating on the BEC but none on the ESC itself.
    Any chinese Manufacturer tells you the amp-rating like 10sec and continuous on his 50$-ESC but Castle tells you what cars and batteries you can use but no amp-rating

    4-600A sounds great but what duration?
    Is it the max. value that you find somewhere in the data recording / Logger for one sample or is it the current at the end of the run and the peak was higher? I just ask because I use some Flycolor 150 in some SAW setup and I have also seen 500A+ as max. Peak but the max. Peak is more a function of how hard you accelerate and not how powerful your drive is

    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    Well dang, I was hoping this would be my competitive secret in boating. Prepare to see lots of new records and broken drivelines!!!
    ...
    There is a lot of data, the pity is that I am not really sure about the current. Does it end at 200A in the end of the run?
    If my understanding is correct don't expect too much to happen. That performance can also be handled by the FC150 for 50$ (limited to 6s of course) , it just needs a cooling modification and some caps

    It would really be interesting to see some official specification to get more concrete then talking at the regular table.

  28. #28
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    Plinse,

    Agreed that there is usually a current spec listed, but in this case the honest answer we got from Castle is "we don't know how high it can push". I have seen the v2 HK T-180 push very high currents and the same for Schulzes who are only rated to 160A, but push over 500A for short periods.

    Let's assume the Castle XLX2 is somewhere in the range of 300-350A for 2-3 minutes. I know I can run a Castle Edge 200 at 300A for 90 seconds with proper cooling and mods. The XLX2 appears to be an improvement so I am optimistic. I am pretty sure several of us will test the XLX2 and provide more feedback on what it can handle.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Plinse,

    Agreed that there is usually a current spec listed, but in this case the honest answer we got from Castle is "we don't know how high it can push". I have seen the v2 HK T-180 push very high currents and the same for Schulzes who are only rated to 160A, but push over 500A for short periods.

    Let's assume the Castle XLX2 is somewhere in the range of 300-350A for 2-3 minutes. I know I can run a Castle Edge 200 at 300A for 90 seconds with proper cooling and mods. The XLX2 appears to be an improvement so I am optimistic. I am pretty sure several of us will test the XLX2 and provide more feedback on what it can handle.

    -Tyler
    I'm sure a LOT of us will be looking forward to whatever data can be provided. Personally, while they're a little ways away, I have two boats in mind (one twin, one single) I could see these going into.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Plinse,

    Agreed that there is usually a current spec listed, but in this case the honest answer we got from Castle is "we don't know how high it can push". I have seen the v2 HK T-180 push very high currents and the same for Schulzes who are only rated to 160A, but push over 500A for short periods.

    Let's assume the Castle XLX2 is somewhere in the range of 300-350A for 2-3 minutes. I know I can run a Castle Edge 200 at 300A for 90 seconds with proper cooling and mods. The XLX2 appears to be an improvement so I am optimistic. I am pretty sure several of us will test the XLX2 and provide more feedback on what it can handle.

    -Tyler
    Tyler did you receive my pm?

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