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Thread: Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.

    There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
    https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdf
    Thanks, Tyler...3/32" it is. While on my way to the LHS (need to pick up a few things for my land RCs), I'll swing by Home Depot to pick one up...or, better yet, a (small) imperial hex wrench set.

    As for that O-ring Bible, at almost 300 pages, it's a bit too long for my tastes. If I'm gonna be reading anything that long (or longer), it needs to have action, magic and/or spaceships in it...lol


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.

    There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
    https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdf
    Sorry for the mis-information. 10-32 is the thread for the fittings.

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Sorry for the mis-information. 10-32 is the thread for the fittings.
    No worries. It all comes out in the wash...so to speak...lol


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

  4. #124
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    I got my Speedo sanded flat and ready for the cooling plate. I?m gonna toy with a retainer plate even with thermal poxy.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  5. #125
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    I have a couple of questions and an idea about this ESC.

    The chamfered edges of the ESC case compared to the previous rounded edges makes me believe that they have switched from a molded plastic case to a machined alloy case, is this correct?

    They say the XLX2 is fully potted so I doubt anyone has removed the case, but has anyone seen prototype XLX2 power board/s naked? Or othewise know if it has a single or dual power board, and if it/they are single or double sided.

    All the previous Castle ESCs I have seen have had FETs on both sides of the board, if that is the case with this one and a good potting compound was used we should be able to mount our water cooling solutions to the bottom of the case (maybe more neatly as there appears to be screw holes for mounting there already) without the cooling suffering too much which would remove the need to break/machine off the fins on top, and if we were to leave the air cooling solution on top, we may well even see better cooling than with the current top mounted water cooling, with much less effort, and an ESC that can easily be returned to stock.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    I have a couple of questions and an idea about this ESC.

    The chamfered edges of the ESC case compared to the previous rounded edges makes me believe that they have switched from a molded plastic case to a machined alloy case, is this correct?

    They say the XLX2 is fully potted so I doubt anyone has removed the case, but has anyone seen prototype XLX2 power board/s naked? Or othewise know if it has a single or dual power board, and if it/they are single or double sided.

    All the previous Castle ESCs I have seen have had FETs on both sides of the board, if that is the case with this one and a good potting compound was used we should be able to mount our water cooling solutions to the bottom of the case (maybe more neatly as there appears to be screw holes for mounting there already) without the cooling suffering too much which would remove the need to break/machine off the fins on top, and if we were to leave the air cooling solution on top, we may well even see better cooling than with the current top mounted water cooling, with much less effort, and an ESC that can easily be returned to stock.
    Hi Paul,
    The entire ESC case is Aluminum and from what I heard the bottom does have a significant impact on cooling.(possibly the BEC circuit?) They even cut some heatsink style fins into the bottom side although only just a few and they are small.

  7. #127
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    Paul,
    The case is machined from billet aluminum. I have not seen anyone cut out the board yet or try to remove the potted assembly from the case. Not sure whether the power PCBA is single or double sided. In the ICE and EDGE controllers they are double sided. I believe the Mamba line of ESC's have all been single sided. Since there are no visible caps on the XLX2 like the smaller Mamba controllers, I have to believe they are placed on the bottom side of the power PCBA. Then all the FET's would be mounted on the top side.

    The potting material looks like a standard clear epoxy and not one of the high performance thermal potting materials. Those are usually very opaque due to a high volume of solids which conduct the heat. Castle may apply a TIM or other thermal interface between the caps and bottom of the case to remove heat and then add the epoxy potting compound.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Paul,
    The case is machined from billet aluminum. I have not seen anyone cut out the board yet or try to remove the potted assembly from the case. Not sure whether the power PCBA is single or double sided. In the ICE and EDGE controllers they are double sided. I believe the Mamba line of ESC's have all been single sided. Since there are no visible caps on the XLX2 like the smaller Mamba controllers, I have to believe they are placed on the bottom side of the power PCBA. Then all the FET's would be mounted on the top side.

    The potting material looks like a standard clear epoxy and not one of the high performance thermal potting materials. Those are usually very opaque due to a high volume of solids which conduct the heat. Castle may apply a TIM or other thermal interface between the caps and bottom of the case to remove heat and then add the epoxy potting compound.

    -Tyler
    Since you designed the water block for the XLX2, I propose an "idea". Granted, this idea isn't 100% the same as running everything in an enclosed boat, but could give an excellent approximation of the real-world end results. Here's my idea:

    Take an XLX2 (without any cooling...no fan, no water block), motor, Rx, and battery (all connected), attach a temperature sensor to the ESC, and place everything inside a closed box. Also, you'd need to use a water pump (outside the box), connected to the motor's water jacket, to 'simulate' water moving through the system (and keep the motor cool). Then run the motor at full-throttle for...say...3 minutes, to and see what the temp is.

    After waiting a good 30 minutes, place your water block on top of the ESC (obviously, with a thermal compound between the water block & ESC), and run the same test, seeing what the new max temp is. Finally (after another 30min), run the test a third time, but with the water block under the ESC for the final test. For the 2nd & 3rd tests, you'd have to redo the cooling tubes, so as to add the ESC's water block to the cooling line.

    Such a serious of tests would not only show how effective the water block is (compared to a stock ESC workout any cooling), but it works also show whether, or not, placing the water block under the XLX2 cools the ESC any better than having the water block on top of the ESC. So...what say you? Is it worth your time & effort? This serious of tests could be done by anyone having already received the water block AND already having two XLX2 ESCs (one with the heatsink fins still attached, and one with the fins already removed.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

  9. #129
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    It's a good test proposal however from my testing I am satisfied with the performance of the cooler. Moreover the ESC is not suffering from borderline cooling. Comparing test results from previous EDGE/ICE controllers versus the XLX2 under similar conditions the XLX2 runs much cooler. Castle has greatly improved the efficiency and reduced the switching losses hence lower cooling requirement for equal power.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  10. #130
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    What cooling mod are you doing to the fc150? I have 1 that I'm setting up for a saw build? Thank you

  11. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbostang434 View Post
    What cooling mod are you doing to the fc150? I have 1 that I'm setting up for a saw build? Thank you
    https://stumpfabrication.com/product...cooling-plates

  12. #132
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    Hey all,
    We are working on the X8S controller next. First samples are being machined now. I will post pics as soon as completed.
    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  13. #133
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    I have been testing the XLX 2 on my Q mono with one of Don's cooling caps and am very impressed with the cooling. Have not seen over 100 degrees F* yet. 200-240 amps. My ICE controllers with tubes on the bars both sides runs 140+. Right now water surface temp is 65-70 degrees which is a cold as it gets here. In summer and 90+ water things heat up fast so I am looking forward to this ESC for our warmer weather. Used the grey RTV for making gaskets and no leaks. If that doesn't hold then 3M 5200 would be my choice.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  14. #134
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    Mic,

    In my testing, the silicone was good for about 75 psi according to my air compressor. JB Weld quick, took it up to 125 psi. It might have gone higher but that's all my air compressor will do!

    BTW, silicone tubing slides off of a nipple at about 25-30 psi, and with a zip tie to keep it on. It expands and to about 3" in diameter and then explodes at around 50-60 psi.

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  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Mic,

    In my testing, the silicone was good for about 75 psi according to my air compressor. JB Weld quick, took it up to 125 psi. It might have gone higher but that's all my air compressor will do!

    BTW, silicone tubing slides off of a nipple at about 25-30 psi, and with a zip tie to keep it on. It expands and to about 3" in diameter and then explodes at around 50-60 psi.
    I love posts that share something useful! Data is what we need more of in this hobby! Thanks Don.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  17. #137
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    Looks like we can water cool a HobbyWing ESC also.
    DSC_0014.jpg

    DSC_0015.jpg

    DSC_0016.jpg

  18. #138
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    Don, have you raced those on air cooling? I have.. Q sport hydro upper 50s in Houston summer heat… not a drop of sweat.
    But the water cooler is super… cool! Nice work!
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  19. #139
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    No Jesse, I have not ever used one before. This one is a customers.

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