Connectors

[Vinnieallin]

I melted a fake Dean's plug what are the best plugs to use on my boat a UL 19 btw

[Panther6834]

First, WHY would you use a Deans on the UL-19? That's akin to using 18-Gauge wire to when the directions say to use 14-Gauge or higher. A Deans connector is NOT capable of handling current with that high of Amperage. Look up the max Amp draw of your motor, and switch to a connector capable of handling at least that Amperage. People won't be able to honestly help you without knowing what motor (and what ESC) you're running.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[RaceMechaniX]

Hello Vinnieallin and welcome to OSE.

A good connector diameter to target is 5.5mm to 6.5mm. There are many brands and options within that size range. The key is to find a single size you like and is readily available.

Many people like the 5.5mm bullets sold by OSE here: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...se-55mm-bullet

If you prefer paired connectors like the Deans, OSE also sells several like this 8mm one: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...d=ose-qs8-anti

You can see all the options here: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...cat=Connectors

[1coopgt]

I would have swore the UL-19 came with EC5's which are fine for that boat.

[Panther6834]

I would have swore the UL-19 came with EC5's which are fine for that boat.

It did. I'm guessing he, or the previous owner (if he bought it used) must have swapped for Deans. As for "why", that's a VERY interesting question. EC5, XT90, or larger, is what's needed. I use Deans on my micro scale boats, and XT60 on my ProBoat Shockwave & TFL Jet Boat...all others have 7mm bullets. Heck, I even use those same 7mm bullets on my no-prep drag cars, and my X-MAXX


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[plinse]

Connectors are usually personal choice and best choice is to use only one system that is chosen to fit the highest demand you have as long as the cell type is the same. This enables you to combine packs...

Tyler already mentioned the important aspects.
6mm +/- a little is a good choice depending on the local supply.
MPJet 5mm is a good choice that has proven to be available for many years already and if you want something high end the Lehner 6mm are my choice.
I definately don't buy any "in House Brands" from shops any more. They only have limited influence on the quality and tolerances. I only look for something with a brand from the manufacturer that I can get at multiple places and when looking at Lehner for example I can call them and ask what they did if the new batch should not fit the old batches but this never happened so far.

With the in house brands you just don't know what you get in a year or two... and the dealer then says "this is what they delivered to me (from china)" or "They did not sell well, I don't have them any more"
I don't need a local dealer to be told that but this already happed more then once

What I don't like about the OSE connectors:
They indicate a current range, weight and price but the most important information on connectors is the resistance of the connection, otherwise you have no idea what criteria lead to the current rating (did not melt together, did not desolder, works within limited voltage drop which would be important for the ESC )

The Lehner 6mm are rated up to 400Amp, I already pushed them to 700A peak and they name 0,035 mOhm to be the resistance of the connection. Several checks from knowledged people proved that, they also showed that you don't need 8mm instead
https://www.elektromodellflug.de/hochstrom-st.-bu..html
https://www.elektromodellflug.de/old...romstecker.htm
There are several connectors on the market that "no one needs" ...

[zooma]

I don't know the OP. However, the Deans T-plug has been the standard connector for R/C airplanes and cars for decades. I have seen many boaters switch to Deans so they can use their present battery inventory. And, then find out that it's insufficient for our current draws.

[KNUJ11]

Deans are for toy grade. Max. draw is below in a shorter table.
Keep in mind that these tables are generated based on different standards and for short term bursts.
Below is what you should not exceed for more than ~ 15s. If in doubt, go 1 higher.

Connector rating:
Tamiya plug - 6.5 amps
Deans - 45 amps
EC3 - 60 amps
XT60 - 60 amps
Castle 4.0mm Polarized - 75 amps
XT90 - 90 amps
EC5 - 120 amps
Castle 5.5mm bullets - 150 amps
XT150 - 150 amps
Castle 6.5mm Polarized - 200 amps
Castle 8.0mm bullets - 300 amps
QS8 - 300 amps

[Panther6834]

I believe those are the "continuous Amp" ratings. The "max/burst Amp" ratings are considerably higher, tho I haven't researched them. For example, is I remember correctly, the max on Deans is 60A.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[plinse]

I believe those are the "continuous Amp" ratings. The "max/burst Amp" ratings are considerably higher, tho I haven't researched them.
...

Based on the data given to RC-customers you just can't really tell.

"Continuous" to me is S1, this is what "continuous" means 24/7.
In RX-language today most "continuous" is "the duration of a 5000mAh LiPo".
At high currents this can be a quite short time
Some (several) years ago this "standard" was 2000mAh NiMh, when 3000mAh NiMh came a lot of RC-Guys practiced "learning by burning" and smoked something up (usually ESCs or motors ), when LiPo came this was even more extreme.

Todays most common "standard" for continuous is the 5000mAh LiPo but to be honest you never know for sure.
Does "light duty equipment" refer to the 5000mAh LiPo the same way as 150-300A equipment does? The manufacturers usually don't really tell
But what is the amp-rating when running 3000mAh LiPo or 10000mAh LiPo instead of a 5000mAh type then ??

This is why I refer to the connection resistance so you can make up your own mind.
And some (few) people can even check it whether such a nominal criteria is fulfilled over time.

Amp-rating has a lot to do with how "brave" the guy is who defines the rating... the resistance is something you can measure and less is better for sure nothing for a vendor to be more brave then the other vendor
(And what happens when there is a new generation of batteries and everyone knows your "old ratings"?? Just change them? ;-) ?)