Need guidance / help - What hull and setup for my kids

[LibertyMKiii]

Hi Boat wizards,

I acquired 12 boat hulls from an estate sale for a stupid low price. I am looking for advice on which hull to use and electronics recommendations. I am a total newb to boats, but have experience in RC cars. Lots of reading and I feel like I am close to kicking off a project for my kids.

The hulls obtained from the estate sale range from 2x 55" off shore mono's, to 1x 44" hydroplane, 2x 37" catamaran/tunnel hull, 2x 37" mono hulls, 1x 31" mono hull, and a few others that were smaller and easier to ship that I have already sold off. All were setup for Gas/Nitro and have most of the rigging installed. I may have to convert some from 1/4" drive down to 3/16 to get the ideal prop on there for the lower speeds I want. (the big boats have 60+mm props on them)

We would be running on a lake in the north Texas area (Lake Lavon for any locals). This area gets wind nearly every day and we can expect some waves/chop on most days. This leads me to think of larger boats? (Is that a solid line of thinking?)

I would like to run on 4s and was eye balling the SeaKing 180a due to the known reliability of HobbyWing ESCs from the RC car side of the hobby.
I am looking for 30-40 mph speeds and wondering if a leopard 4082 or 4092 motor could handle running these large boats on 4s at those speeds? (guessed I would go for a 1700kv but open to recommendations)

Which hull would you recommend for my 5 and 9 year old to operate (has the most forgiving nature for bad driving)

*As a side note if anyone is in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area is interested I only want to keep 1 boat and sell the rest. (prices would be 1/3 of normal retail)

Thanks in advance for your input/recommendations!!!

-Liberty

[1coopgt]

Pictures help.

[LibertyMKiii]

Pictures help.

I cannot seem to get pictures to load. It may be my work restricting the upload.

[LibertyMKiii]

I have decided to setup one of the deep vee / mono hull for my son. After measuring it I realized it was 41" not 37" as I thought.

It had the stuffing tube out the bottom of the boat and had wood epoxied into the bottom of the hull. Spent Saturday morning removing those wood pieces and prepping everything for an electric build with some fresh fiberglass to plug up the holes from the prior setup.

The setup will be a SeaKing 180a and TP4070 1700kv. I am planning to start on 4s with a 40mm 1.2 pitch prop.

I'll be converting the boat to run a stinger setup versus the junk that was on it as that appears to be the norm these days for mono hulls.

[srislash]

Well on that setup the prop choice should be very safe to start. For a 41” hull a 47-50mm prop would be ideal.
But see how it goes and putt around with what you have got.

Shawn

[Peter A]

For the size hull, A TP 4060 1350kv with the Seaking 180 and for prop X447/3, X450 or 452 detongued will work well on 6s. Lower kv and bigger prop, you can always go smaller on prop or to 4s to drop the speed. An older hull may not handle a lot of speed, but the above combo can get you at 50 mph.
On 1700kv and 4s you will need to go bigger on prop as Shawn has suggested.

[LibertyMKiii]

Well on that setup the prop choice should be very safe to start. For a 41? hull a 47-50mm prop would be ideal.
But see how it goes and putt around with what you have got.

Shawn

Thanks for the prop sizing advice.

For the size hull, A TP 4060 1350kv with the Seaking 180 and for prop X447/3, X450 or 452 detongued will work well on 6s. Lower kv and bigger prop, you can always go smaller on prop or to 4s to drop the speed. An older hull may not handle a lot of speed, but the above combo can get you at 50 mph.
On 1700kv and 4s you will need to go bigger on prop as Shawn has suggested.

Being our first boat and built mostly for my son who is 9 years old. Slow speeds is a good thing! In my experiences higher speed = more crashing.
I'll order another prop as you guys have suggested around 47mm.

I plan to build a rigger later on for speed use. Currently doing some CAD design for it

[LibertyMKiii]

Picture of my Sons Monohull that we are building:

Blue sparkles Capture.jpg

Picture of my outrigger design:

2Capture.jpg

[oscarel]

Picture of my Sons Monohull that we are building:

Blue sparkles Capture.jpg

Picture of my outrigger design:

2Capture.jpg

There are proven plans on the net for riggers if you want to start there.

http://www.ne-stuff.net/2012/10/keps...tentation.html

[LibertyMKiii]

There are proven plans on the net for riggers if you want to start there.

http://www.ne-stuff.net/2012/10/keps...tentation.html

Thanks that is helpful. I had read about the 4 degree AOA for the sponson and ski but this contained some other good details!

[Peter A]

There are proven plans on the net for riggers if you want to start there.

http://www.ne-stuff.net/2012/10/keps...tentation.html

The download links no longer work, shame that.

[srislash]

Picture of my Sons Monohull that we are building:

Blue sparkles Capture.jpg

This is a great looking hull

[oscarel]

The download links no longer work, shame that.

Bummer, sure doesn't.

[ezhitz]

Try this http://www.ne-stuff.net/2015/12/keps-t3-21-freebie.html

[LibertyMKiii]

Made some good progress on the build up of this deep vee mono-hull boat.

Quick question for the seasoned pros. I am using an TFL stinger made for 3/16. I have the 1/4 OSE brass tube ideal for the 3/16 flex shaft.
There seems to be an excessive gap on the fitment of the 1/4 brass tube into the stinger. I was expecting it to be a rather snug fit. I foresee that being an entry point for water into the hull.

Should I sleeve the tube with the next size up? What is your experience and what fits correctly?

OSE support advised that the tube should end shortly after the transom to allow for adjustment. Meaning don't worry about fitting it snugly inside the stinger. I get the idea behind how this allows for angle adjustment, but nothing would keep the water from coming up the tube. Drawn image attached based on my understanding. Please educate me

[properchopper]

Sometimes the situation calls for some sleeving for step down or step up

vortex stepdown.jpg

[LibertyMKiii]

Sometimes the situation calls for some sleeving for step down or step up

vortex stepdown.jpg

This is along the lines of what I was thinking. Thanks for the picture reference. I'll have to take some measurements with calipers and figure out what it needs.
It is crazy to me that these products don't mention the inside diameter for where the tubing fits in.

I had a similar surprise with the motor mounts for electric motors that are all made for M3 screws when most of my TP Power 40mm motors, I order with M4 mounting. (A little expanding on the motor mount with a Dremel endmill and I was good to go.)

[Peter A]

Made some good progress on the build up of this deep vee mono-hull boat.

Quick question for the seasoned pros. I am using an TFL stinger made for 3/16. I have the 1/4 OSE brass tube ideal for the 3/16 flex shaft.
There seems to be an excessive gap on the fitment of the 1/4 brass tube into the stinger. I was expecting it to be a rather snug fit. I foresee that being an entry point for water into the hull.

Should I sleeve the tube with the next size up? What is your experience and what fits correctly?

OSE support advised that the tube should end shortly after the transom to allow for adjustment. Meaning don't worry about fitting it snugly inside the stinger. I get the idea behind how this allows for angle adjustment, but nothing would keep the water from coming up the tube. Drawn image attached based on my understanding. Please educate me

If you use a teflon liner then you can run that right into the stinger and have a flexible join for adjustment.

[LibertyMKiii]

If you use a teflon liner then you can run that right into the stinger and have a flexible join for adjustment.

I decided against the Teflon liner based on several threads here on the forums indicating it is yet another failure point.
I ordered several sizes of brass tube today so I can make the step up to get a snug fit into the stinger. Should be good to go after that

[LibertyMKiii]

Just in case someone google searches this thread in the future looking for a solution.
With the TFL adjustable stinger I had to use the 9/32" tube over the 1/4" tube to get a snug fit into the stinger.

The 9/32 was actually too thick walled to fit into the stinger initially, but I could tell this was the right size to use... To fix this I spun it with a drill and wet sanded/polished it down to fit snug.

Getting close to putting this boat in the water and very excited.

[zooma]

What I have done is slide about three O-rings over the stub of the stuffing tube, then put the stinger back on over them. I think that a sleeve will limit the stinger's adjustment.

[LibertyMKiii]

What I have done is slide about three O-rings over the stub of the stuffing tube, then put the stinger back on over them. I think that a sleeve will limit the stinger's adjustment.

That is a good idea. I ended up making the step up sleeve mostly fit inside the stinger and not run up to the transom. This allows the stinger to still be adjusted.

Made some great progress this week:
- Steering linkage setup with the bellows seal at the rear.
- Battery tray made from a sheet of G10 plate that screws into the wood rails.
- ESC plate from G10 and epoxied in, and ESC on it with 3m double sided tape.
- Setup the ESC bullet connectors to the motor and battery series connector.
- Tabs for the hatch to sit instead of falling inside the hull.
- Sanded down the epoxy from patching up the old stuffing tube setup that went out the bottom of the hull. (converted to stinger setup)
- Wired up the receiver in a water box.

My ToDo list:
- Trim tabs
- Turn fins
- Water cooling plumbing
- Balance the prop and not breath in toxic dust

[LibertyMKiii]

Update pic of the boat. Nearly done, just waiting on some M4 screws with lock nuts to come in and a 47mm prop on the way.

[LibertyMKiii]

Went out for a first test run last night. The boat runs great other than some bounce that I'll try to sort out with either adjusting the LiPo position / CG or trim tabs.
Overall very pleased and did a nice arial flip with rotation after hitting a log at the end of the video LOL! (no damage other than the break away screw in the rudder)

https://youtu.be/nzJ_k-ji-J4

[LibertyMKiii]

Small update.

I ended up revisiting this boat project this year and now I am hooked on the pursuit of speed

The setup in 2021 was a TP4070 (1700kv) and seaKing 180 for a little while and then tried the castle ESC. It ran about 60mph peak and just got wildly out of control above that speed.

I completely changed the layout recently putting the motor as far back as I could and installed a long OSE battery tray in the nose of the boat so I can adjust the balance.
This hull seems to always need the trim tabs despite putting the LiPos far forward. I may have to try a different prop, but honestly, I am thrilled with how great it is running. All this time I was thinking I would need to go out and buy a newer/modern hull and now this one is performing very good despite its age and outdated design.

The current setup is an XLX2 and still a TP4070. My old PB in 2021 was 61 mph on 6s. This past holiday weekend I achieved a new PB of 90 mph on 6s!!!
Pretty excited to see if I can push this setup into the triple digits with some tuning and warming the LiPos.

Although it is not as capable of high speeds as the rigger boats this mono hull is proving to be very fun and ideal for the long narrow pond I run on. (The rigger is a pain to run there since it won't turn left)
I also put in some 2 part closed cell foam from total boat. This stuff is rock hard and seems like it will help hold the boat together in a crash, which will be occurring soon I am sure.

[Bande1]

90 that is crazy!!! did you ever get rid of the other hulls?

[LibertyMKiii]

90 that is crazy!!! did you ever get rid of the other hulls?

Yes I sold off everything, but this 42" mono and acquired a JAE 33 fe 2 months ago.