Paint for the hatch

[sailr]

Any advice on what kind of paint to use for the ABS hatch? I don't want the hatch tape to pull the paint off! How about Krylon Fusion for plastics. Will it adhere OK? Any other ideas?

[egneg]

Most problems with delam are related to surface prep/paint application and not the paint. Use a good quality wax & grease remover before you scuff the surface. Then wet sand with 220 grit (I like to use sanding sponges as they work well on all surfaces). Wash the parts well and then use the wax & grease remover again. At this time do not touch the parts with your bare hands - use latex or nitrile gloves. Krylon Fusion is a good choice and spray thin coats allowing enough time for the paint to flash off between coats. Watch your "windows" recoat within 24 hours or you have to wait 7 days. I would wait 7 days before I cleared as well.

[Rex R]

sand the hatch with 600 grit, I've had reasonable success with standard krylon. the key to not having the paint pull off is; surface prep(wash in hot soapy water and sand), and give the paint a chance to cure. it takes at least a week to get anywhere close to being hard enough on the planning surfaces...30 days for areas subject to hatch tape. fusion might trim a week off of that, but you still have a one(1) week minimum curing time(says so right on the can).

[Flying Scotsman]

My favourite.... Tamiya TS paints and as mentioned SURFACE PREP is the key and use a prime coat. If you are painting over a previously painted suface, check for compatability on a small portion and use the same manufacturer for prime, top coat and clear. Also note that the hatch is very flexible, some paints may crack when flexed.

Douggie

[Capt. Crash]

Never had one to peal yet....I use the cheap Walmart "Krylon" paint of choice without priming first (sand/wash first). Let dry overnight. Apply water slide decals. Let dry over night. Apply several coats of cheap gloss clear "Krylon"....ripper....let dry over night. Apply Mothers car wax....2 coats. Reapply car wax after a dozen or so tapings.

[Flying Scotsman]

Wow, way wrong NEVER EVER APPLY wax to a newly applied paint. wait at least 30 days...polish with no wax is ok

Douggie

[egneg]

Wow, way wrong NEVER EVER APPLY wax to a newly applied paint. wait at least 30 days...polish with no wax is ok

Douggie

You don't want to trap any solvents by waxing. It takes a lot longer than most folks think for paint to fully cure.

[Capt. Crash]

Never had a problem so far with any of my boats! I'll double check tonight....maybe it is polish but I think it's Carnauba Wax!

[Flying Scotsman]

Then, you are very lucky. Ask any auto paint person as to what they would state.

Douggie

[Capt. Crash]

The cheap "Krylon" dries very very fast...it's not auto paint.

[Flying Scotsman]

Then, how do you think an auto body shop can turn arround a car in 2 days. With the cautions they mention. No wax for 30 days. Auto Paints cure much faster than Krylon

Douggie

[Capt. Crash]

Hey...I'm a newbie and I don't claim to be a expert at anything here except at asking questions! All I'm saying is the above works for me....I'll check on that ah wax/polish in a couple hours and let ya know what it is.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yep, the body shop I worked for said the same NO wax for 30 days min. Now we are not dealing with the same paints we were.

Not sure if clear coat allows any disapation from the color coat anyway.

The wax issue may not show up until later when the paint becomes hazed looking, etc.

Heck, the spray wax for quick waxing works well...so does Johnson furniture wax.

Just remember to wax the top and sides but not the bottom.

[Flying Scotsman]

Also, please note the paints we use are old school and not the modern catalyst paints used by the pros

Douggie

[egneg]

Also, please note the paints we use are old school and not the modern catalyst paints used by the pros

Douggie

With the uros only the primers and clears use a catalyst as the base coat has to be cleared. With lacquers a clear coat is not required but is an option. Also lacquers do not have windows for painting unlike uros which have time limits before the surface must be scuffed for proper adhesion. There is a chemical reaction that causes adhesion within a certain time frame or else a intercoat clear must be used to provide a surface that can be scuffed for a physical bond. Lacquers do not have those time constraints and will always cause a chemical bond if the surface has been prepped properly.

[Flying Scotsman]

Ah Chuck, I have to agree. I love lacquer paints for the reasons you mention.

Douggie

[egneg]

Here is some good reading for paint problems.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/...Guide/tsg.ashx

[Capt. Crash]

I use Mothers California Gold Carnauba Wax alright.....never had a fog up or problem using it on the clear coat the next day after painting.

[Flying Scotsman]

The points being made here all have personal experience but be very carefull with prep and painting plans. The original question is very valid.

Douggie

[egneg]

The points being made here all have personal experience but be very carefull with prep and painting plans. The original question is very valid.

Douggie

Adhesion promoter for plastics (such as bulldog) is a viable solution but is very tricky to use. The manufacturers directions must be strictly followed or you will have one hell of a mess.

[detox]

Sand using fine Scoch Brite pad or fine steel wool , Wipe down with denatured alcohal, Spray it with Krylon, Let dry about 5 days, then Wax before show and tell.

[Fluid]

What Detox said, except I use TopFlight LustreKote. This costs a bit more than Krylon but is much higher quality. I painted my UL-1 hatch after sanding with ScotchBrite, let it dry about a week, and haven't bothered to wax it. Dozens of tape jobs and no hint of paint pulling. It isn't a perfect color match but from ten feet away it doesn't matter.





.

[Capt. Crash]

Fluid...your boat looks great!

You need to post it on the "Let's see it thread!

[sailr]

solid yellow looks good!

[sailr]

thanks everyone for your suggestions. Never thought about waxing! I thought the wax would keep the tape from sticking. I'll try that!!

[Kfoss1]

Fluid, which LustreKote yellow did you use to match?

[longballlumber]

What Detox said, except I use TopFlight LustreKote. This costs a bit more than Krylon but is much higher quality. I painted my UL-1 hatch after sanding with ScotchBrite, let it dry about a week, and haven't bothered to wax it. Dozens of tape jobs and no hint of paint pulling. It isn't a perfect color match but from ten feet away it doesn't matter.

Can I use LusterKote (colors) of the top of Krylon primer (grey)?

Thanks
Mike

[Flying Scotsman]

Douggie's UL-1 with painted hatch

[properchopper]

Cool colors; Looks nice & shiney. How 'bout some Canadian flag decals ?

[sailr]

I used Krylon Fusion. Wow, that is some GREAT paint! Easy to apply, flows out nice and produces a good gloss. Not sure how it's going to hold up to tape! I'm going to let it cure at least a week or 10 days first. I'm debating about putting clear over it. If I put do, the clear might pull loose! Go figure, eh? Anyone else used the FUSION? How did it hold up? It is kinda easily scratched. I did notice that.

Here's a pic!



It looks so clean I'm not sure I'm putting the funky little pipes and mirros back on it....or the fins for that matter. Not sure yet. Comments?