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Thread: Ml Boat works 1/6 dual build thread, Newton 164 and 172.

  1. #1
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    Default Ml Boat works 1/6 dual build thread, Newton 164 and 172.

    The 164 will sport the 95? Bud T-4 livery while the 172 with sport the T-6 2011 Valken.com livery. Both will run 10-12s motors, speed master hardware, Randy Rap turnfins, and ztw controllers.

    I?m currently working on the T6. So we?ll start there.
    Pics coming soon. It?s late and I?m falling asleep.

  2. #2
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    Looking forward to seeing the build!

  3. #3
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    0E90C928-34AB-49F2-8AEC-0CDCD881AA2C.jpg4B9B4D22-32C3-4547-BB86-D5DABF319AB1.jpgFC400B82-3A6F-423C-9EAB-50925F64659A.jpg18CE02C8-6994-47EB-8B64-6F98F73766B2.jpg

    My phone screw up the pic configurations. I’ll have to fix them on my laptop. For now we have sideways pics.

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    Last edited by jingalls007; 05-30-2021 at 11:03 AM.

  5. #5
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    Looks great - you were not joking about the gas scale builds being enormous - cat for scale.

    Out of curiosity, do you fiberglass or CF the inside of your hulls?

    W

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    Quote Originally Posted by nocebo View Post
    Out of curiosity, do you fiberglass or CF the inside of your hulls?

    W
    I do both. I tape the seems w/2” fiberglass tape and heavy, 12k cf down the middle.

  7. #7
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    Made some progress on the vertices. Sandwiched the two halves, added wood and carbon fiber, then epoxied and sanded to prep for 2k black epoxy primer. Paint is HOK Black Sparkle Pearl, clear is spray Max 2k.
    93C659A5-832B-4869-AFCC-3194FDF69E04.jpgE5544247-36E6-4934-BD2E-5A850FC73E13.jpgA8E57E32-0292-49A9-839A-95C54F40338A.jpg

    I’ll finish the canard and horizontal tomorrow in the same way then onto the massive cowling.

    Note: 2k epoxy primer is really easy to work with. Sandeable in 30 minutes. Overcoatable in 20-30. There no need for sanding or waiting if you intend to go straight to your basecoat.

    My process was; prime, wait 30 minutes, sand, icing for small holes, then light primer, wait 30 mins, lightly sand with 320, clean with windex then straight to paint. Paint flash off is about 15-20 I 2k cleared all within a 2 hour window and the paint came out flawless; no wrinkles, no offgas
    Concerns from urethane basecoat. This is by far the best method I’ve used for rattle can paint.

  8. #8
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    Good luck on the builds. My Ml 172 is running great. Tp power 5870/750 kv on 10 cells with a swordfish 300x. 4 roaring top 5100 for batteries. 45143DD0-510D-4108-A39B-2B39F7A77701.jpg

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twood69 View Post
    Good luck on the builds. My Ml 172 is running great. Tp power 5870/750 kv on 10 cells with a swordfish 300x. 4 roaring top 5100 for batteries. 45143DD0-510D-4108-A39B-2B39F7A77701.jpg
    Hey Tom, yes, your T6 inspired this build! Thanks for sharing again.

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    Tom I meant to ask did you install the rear shoes? My kit didn’t come with them included so I wasn’t sure if I needed to make them as they’re included in Mike’s mugshot pics.

  12. #12
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    Great progress, you are a much faster builder than me!

    Im assuming the piece of aluminum is to support the turn fin?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    007, is that aluminum plate I see epoxied in? Looks to be in the wrong place

  14. #14
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    Yes. I made them from pictures as close to scale as I could tell. 1238F930-9113-48C1-965E-5FB77FBFD55A.jpg

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by meangenesracing View Post
    007, is that aluminum plate I see epoxied in? Looks to be in the wrong place
    At first I thought you meant it was on the wrong sponson lol. From the pics it seems backwards. But I see what you’re saying now. I’m waiting on more aluminum to arrive so I can add more platting to the left (looking bow to transom). I usually cut one singular piece but that’s all I had at the moment.
    Last edited by jingalls007; 06-05-2021 at 01:47 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Twood69 View Post
    That’s what I needed. Shingles even!
    Thanks Tom.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nocebo View Post
    Great progress, you are a much faster builder than me!

    Im assuming the piece of aluminum is to support the turn fin?
    I’m only “faster” because I use 15 min epoxy to tack everything in place. My first wood kit took months to finish because I used g-flex to tack it all down haha.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twood69 View Post
    If I remember correctly you made the canard adjustable on the fly. I’ve been contemplating the best way to achieve the same but I’m stuck on how to do it from inside the sponson and making it accessible at the same time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    If I remember correctly you made the canard adjustable on the fly. I’ve been contemplating the best way to achieve the same but I’m stuck on how to do it from inside the sponson and making it accessible at the same time.
    How about an access hatch?
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  21. #21
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    I thought about that too. Where at Jesse? Top side of the sponson?

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  23. #23
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    That's cool as heck Tom. Did you drill out a servo horn to run the rod thru?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    I’m only “faster” because I use 15 min epoxy to tack everything in place. My first wood kit took months to finish because I used g-flex to tack it all down haha.

    Ha yeah i think i am learning that lesson - Im using west systems 105 with slow hardener. Makes for slow work. Although with the sponson sheeting Ive started tacking in place with superglue, really speeds things up.

  25. #25
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    Hi,
    Just wondering who sells the fibreglass parts for this hull, the rear wing, uprights, canopy etc

    Thanks
    Trev

  26. #26
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    Snell design.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerr73 View Post
    Hi,
    Just wondering who sells the fibreglass parts for this hull, the rear wing, uprights, canopy etc

    Thanks
    Trev
    Jeff @ SnellDesigns

  28. #28
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    More progress on the sponsons, shaped the nose and epoxied in the cone; laid 3 layers of fg and taped all seems. Prepping the engine well for two layers of cf that this big boat needs.

    7D2728A1-B067-450F-8299-A61E01F22174.jpg D701F85B-F451-400E-9008-612D37A4DA4F.jpg76C1556E-2280-41AA-B351-C95BB2C2B0C5.jpg

  29. #29
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    Working out possible motor and lipo configs.
    DD6978B4-58DC-451F-80D2-C3749DE72B4F.jpg 0EB659B3-C8EC-41E6-A0AA-3045EEDA33D9.jpg

    Tom, is this roughly how you set yours up?

  30. #30
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    J man.. I think your motor is way too far back! Can you get it a little farther forward?
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

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