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Thread: 171 Extreme Build - 1/8 Scale Boeing

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jingalls007 View Post
    Coming along famously. I envy builders like you that take the time to explain each step and the reasoning behind your choices. Excellent man! And btw, did I mention I’m jealous of your shop?!?

    Ha, my wife does not share your admiration for my shop. I actually ended up building all the benches with enclosed sides and a roof. Means i can put some cheap roller blinds on the front of the benches and close the whole mess up when i walk way. Easier to hide the mess than clean it!

  2. #32
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    While i was waiting for the sponson glue to dry, i did the preliminary glue up of the front end of the hull. I had left it up to this point because i dont have the canopy yet and wanted to fit it all together. The following is just a preliminary tacking together, I will do the rest when the canopy arrives (being made as we speak apparently and should hopefully arrive soon).

    So to put the front end together, you actually need to fit the sponsons - these help locate the front wing which in turn locates the shape of the front hull sides. I clamped it all im place for a trial fit. See below.





    Once the sponsons are in place, you need to use these parts to hold the front end together. Took a bit of figuring out how to use them, see below:



    I worked out it is basically meant to go together like this, with the tshaped piece poking all the way through to the bottom of the hull:




  3. #33
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    So to assemble, first you drop these pieces into the corresponding slots on the center of the wing. When glued in place they will bend to match the curvature of the hull:



    Then take this piece, and put it under the wing:



    View from underside:



    Finally drop in the "T piece". The trick is to trim the top of the T just enough so it fits in place, but pushes out the sides a bit to get the required curvature.



    If done correctly, the bottom of the T should slot into a corresponding slot in the bottom of the hull when it is all taped or glued together


  4. #34
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    Going to be following you closely! I have a boat I picked up that is partially completed and just a little bit further along than yours.

    I appreciate the photos and your detailed explanations!!

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ayles View Post
    Going to be following you closely! I have a boat I picked up that is partially completed and just a little bit further along than yours.

    I appreciate the photos and your detailed explanations!!

    Hi, thanks, I will be following your build along closely as well. I was looking through your photos and already found a spot where i have made a mistake in my sponson sheeting (or at least done it differently to you), so its going to be super helpful having the builds done in parallel. Looks like you are taking on a great project!

  6. #36
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    Awesome! I actually haven't done any of the building. I am just picking up where someone left off so I wouldn't rush to assuming you made a mistake as mine could certainly be wrong :)

    That is one are though where I am not sure on the next pieces to apply to the sponsons. Is it the outter or inner remaining piece that go on next.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ayles View Post
    Awesome! I actually haven't done any of the building. I am just picking up where someone left off so I wouldn't rush to assuming you made a mistake as mine could certainly be wrong :)

    That is one are though where I am not sure on the next pieces to apply to the sponsons. Is it the outter or inner remaining piece that go on next.
    I literally just finished the last of my sponson sheeting last night. The order I did it in was:

    1. The air relief section
    2. The back long section that goes down the side of the hull (I think this might be called the non trip?)
    3. The ride surfaces
    4. Then the side sheets, working from the ride surface one by one up the side of the hull

    Ill post pictures soon to show it all in detail. Sheeting the sponsons has been by far the hardest part of the build

  8. #38
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    Once the front wing was secure (held in place with binder clips, no glue at this stage) I started tacking the front end together using tape and superglue:





    This area might end up holding the batteries so will need to be able to handle a kilo or two bouncing around on waves. My thinking is that I will reinforce the area with battens and eventually carbon fiber. To start I laid some basswood in the corners and glued into place with some creative clamping.







    Toward the front i did not extend the battens all the way - Ill decide what to do in this area when the canopy arrives and I am fitting the front end


  9. #39
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    Sponson Sheeting

    Sheeting of the sponsons has been the hardest part of the build so far. Fitting together the kit went relatively smoothly, its pretty easy and self explanatory how to put it together. Not so much for the sheeting.

    The main problems are what order to put the sheets down, how big some of the sheets are meant to be, how the edges of each sheets interact, and the differences between the two sponsons. In some places its clear the sheets are meant to butt up directly together, in others you are definitely meant to leave a clean edge. A smarter move would have been to ask here first before forging ahead, but too late now : )

    I took a looootttt of photos of this part of the build, hoping it can be a reference for others, so sorry for the amount of photos im about to dump on you. Ive tried to get every step and every angle, especially how the different sheets interact. If you see something ive done wrong, please point it out so i dont go passing on bad info.

    Onto the build:

    First step is to layout the basic shape of the sheets. I started in the "air relief section" because this seemed like the flattest, easiest sheet to fit. I stared by spending an hour or so with sandpaper on the sponsons, doing one last check to make sure everything is flat and all the transitions are clean. I had to sand down some of the balsa as well to get it flush.

    Easiest way to get the basic shape of the sheet is to lay some paper over it, and press down in all the corners to create a crease outlining the shape. Not looking for a perfect fit here, just something close:



    After cutting out, I used spray adhesive to glue to the plywood:



    I tried a bunch of different methods to cut out the plywood as i dont own a scroll saw. The wood cutting blade on the dremel worked ok but was a bit messy:



    By far the easiest and neatest way however was to use a sharp knife to simply cut the thin plywood. A light pass at first then a deeper one to make the cut worked well:



    once the sheet is cut to rough shape you can use a combination of a sanding block and a sharp knife to refine the shape to get a (close to) perfect fit:




  10. #40
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    Here is the port and starboard air relief sheeting laid out before gluing. Ive also cut the front air relief pieces that mate with the very tip of the sponsons. As you can see, each piece is different.



    I actually made a mistake here as i forgot to leave a lip at the rear of the sheet to overlap the sponson. The original was cut flush to the back of the sponson. I believe its better to always leave a lip as it allows for a cleaner seperation of the water from the ride surface. Its probably not as important for this section as technically it should be above the water when the boat is running at full speed, but i went and redid it anyway. Here is old vs the new, you can see its a bit longer:



    I left a 3 mm overlap for all the ride surfaces. If I was to do it again would make it 1.5mm:



    One area i was quiet unsure about was how to mate the tip of the sheeting with the tip of the sponson. I think i actually did this incorrectly - i ended up beveling the sheeting so it laid flat against the sponson former. I think its actually meant to overlap the former completely. In some of the other sheeting i made it overlap, which looks like a stronger setup - this does look quite neat however. Photo below should hopefully explain what i mean:





    Here are the ride sheets clamped in place while drying. Whenever i clamped a sheet into dry i also made sure to clamp down the whole sponson so it doesnt come out twisted.


  11. #41
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    Next thing i tackled was the side skins for the back part of the sponsons. I think these are called the "non trips" (no idea why). I wanted to get these in place as the should really stiffen up the long section of the sponson and prevent warping. I was noticing that the whole thing was a different shape on rainy days vs hot days so wanted to lock things down and try to keep it all stable.

    Here are the templates glued to some ply. Notice the sandpaper strip glued to the MDF board - really helps in keeping everything nice and straight.



    And here is the first piece clamped in place as i trimmed it down. I fitted it oversized and then sanded it down insitu.



    To give some extra support to the sheet, I decided to glue down some balsa strips to the bottom of the sponson. This gives some more surface area for the sheet to adhere to. Here is the gluing process:



    Final product with balsa strips in place:



    I then trimmed these down with some sandpaper to get them nice and flush with the sponson. Creates a nice surface and quite a lightweight solution:




  12. #42
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    Gluing in the skin. I really paid attention to getting a full contact glue joint. The bottom joint is quite good because of the balsa we laid down earlier, however the top of the skin (in the below photo) is only laying against the edge of the stringer. To beef up the joint, I back it up with some thickened epoxy later on to create more surface area.

    Lots of clamps and tape to try and get it as flat as possible:





    Once the tape is off before trimming:



    Here is that joint from the inside - nice clean fit



    And here is the other joint I was talking about that I will fill with thickened epoxy



    Starting to smooth down the excess plywood - all sanding was down with a sanding block to stop me from digging in anywhere. I later graduated to a small block plane which is much faster for the initial smoothing down.


  13. #43
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    Final product sanded flush. The next sheet will be glued directly on here and then sanded flush in the same way








  14. #44
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    Great build log! Enjoyable to follow

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G970F met Tapatalk

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Jan View Post
    Great build log! Enjoyable to follow

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G970F met Tapatalk
    Thanks!

  16. #46
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    The next sheet is relatively easy to place as its a nice flat surface to glue to. Usual process, press paper over the part to create an outline, cut out paper and glue to plywood:



    Laid down roughly in place - I leave about 5mm each side for later trimming:



    Lay down your epoxy and clamp the crap out of it. With these long pieces its really important to clamp the whole lot to the table so it dries straight:





    After drying this is the result:





    Its actually amazing how much stronger the whole thing becomes once the sheeting is in place. Really ties the whole lot together and prevents a lot of flex.

  17. #47
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    Once it is dry you can use you plane/razor/sanding block to trim the excess nice and flush:





    Really important to use a sanding block and not to freehand sand if you want a straight surface. Later on I will come back with a fairing compound to fill in the low spots but i want everything to be as fair as possible before adding any compound.



    Finished and ready to move onto the next steps:




  18. #48
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    Next thing I decided to tackle was the ride surfaces. Mainly because these are pretty flat and so seem a bit easier to fit. There are some funky edges you have to maintain though so tried to capture that in photos. The ride surfaces I am tackling are:

    Main ride surface on here:





    As well as the two front surfaces just in front of the main ride pad



    First thing i did was glue on a batten to give the front most ride surface something to land on. As usual, glue this on then plane/sand down to make it fair with the sponson. Here it is clamped in place. This photo also shows the three ride surfaces i am tackling in the next few posts:



    Following the same process as before, make a paper template, glue to some plywood, and cut out with a razor:



    And finally here are all the ride surfaces cut out and ready to be glued into place. As you can see each one is slightly different so need to be fitted individually. I will show you the overlaps in the next few posts.


  19. #49
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    I put a second batten in here to support the main ride paid. Important - note this sits flush with the main ride pad and slightly below the middle ride pad. Next photos should show what i mean:



    Here it is in place - note it sits slightly below the forward ride pad. This is important as when the forward and aft pads are in place there will be a sharp lip between the two to encourage the water to separate:



    Here is the ride pad sitting in place before gluing. Notice the front is flush with the bottom of the forward ride surface



    Again a test fit - this is what it should look like when its glued in, a nice sharp edge:





    Another test fit showing the overlap i left at the rear - about 3mm, although you can probably get away with less. This is the port sponson - you can also see that inner edge of the ride pad i kept it flush with the edge. You could overhand this slightly if you wanted to help the boat slide sideways over the water more effectively. I decided to keep it flush. Not sure which is better...

    Last edited by nocebo; 06-29-2021 at 12:48 AM.

  20. #50
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    What spray on adhesive did you use? I have some pretty strong stuff left over from doing the interior on my car but I can't imagine using that to create the templates. The paper wouldn't come off without leaving a big mess.

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ayles View Post
    What spray on adhesive did you use? I have some pretty strong stuff left over from doing the interior on my car but I can't imagine using that to create the templates. The paper wouldn't come off without leaving a big mess.

    Its some stuff i got at an arts and crafts type store -if anything i have the opposite problem, its not particularly strong at all. Comes off easily with a bit of acetone.

  22. #52
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    Time for an update:

    Once i had everything lined up, was time to glue the main ride pads down. I noticed the support ribs that they were to be glued to were not perfectly straight. After raiding my toolbox for something to use as a brace that was the right size, i settled on some allen keys. You can see what i mean below:



    Clamped into place while the glue was drying for the sponsons. I then laid down some epoxy, and taped the whole lot together with a crapload of tape:



    As usual, clamp the lot to the table while its drying to prevent warping:





    The finished product: Its starting to come together!




  23. #53
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    So the edges of the main ride pads are different on each side. See below for what i mean.



    The outside edge of the starboard ride pad overlaps the sponson by about 1.5mm. The inside edge is flush. Both sides are flush on the port sponson.

    Next step was to fit the forward most sheet/ride pad. To do this properly i borrowed a small block plane which made the whole process much much easier. Is a great tool to do sheeting, allows you to carefull shape the sheets and get them perfect before fitting. Also good to fair all the battens etc. Wish i had it earlier. If i could find a smaller one that would be even better - maybe my next boat. Here I am getting it razor sharp.










  24. #54
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    This is the front piece cut to shape:



    Im not sure i did this next bit correctly, but it seemed to work in the end. Rather than overlapping the sponson former, I shaved and sanded down the edge of the sponson sheet so it would sit at an angle and meet at a perfect edge at the tip of the sponson. Took a bunch of photos to explain. Again you could probably do this differently but it seemed to work for me.





    To get a really solid glue joint at the front, i mixed up some thickened epoxy:



    Laid it down right on the edge where I will be gluing the sponson. MAKE SURE YOU SEAL THIS PART WITH EPOXY BEFORE YOU GLUE ON YOUR SHEET. I forgot and now its super difficult to get under there to seal properly.



    Clamping down:


  25. #55
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    Here is the leading edge. I might round this off later on with some thickened epoxy. Ill do this after the top sheeting is complete



    Finally, a bunch of very creative clamping to hold it all to dry.





    Really happy with the finished product - came out very straight and neat. Next step is the final two upper sheets on each sponson.

  26. #56
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    Starting on the upper sheeting on the starboard sponson. I did this sheet in one piece, on the port side i did it in two pieces.

    Here is the rough shape of the template:





    The way I fitted this was to lay the straight edge down against the side of the sponson and clamp it into place. I then basically slowly whittled away at the front until i had a perfect (or as close as i could get) fit. This was the only way i could get this complex shape (and sharp bend) close.





    Tacked it down with superglue




  27. #57
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    Some photos of the leading edge. I started to feather the edges together as the next sheet i am putting on will overlap the sponson former. This sheet is sort of the transition piece so feathered both the sheet and the sponson. Hope this makes sense. Lots of pics for reference:









    Again not saying this is the best way, but it seems to work. The other option would be to overlap the sponson edge all the way around.

  28. #58
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    The port side sponson was done a little differently. There is a little step i incorporated in this sponson so needed to do the sheeting in two pieces. Its also a sharper bend so was easier as two sheets.

    If you look really closely in the below photo, you can see how this step is incorporated:





    Front piece:



    Was able to get a really close fit because it was in two pieces:



    Also was able to pre-bend the piece so it fit in place perfect. Surprising how well the plywood holds the bend without breaking.


  29. #59
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    Second sheet:



    Notice i put in a piece of balsa on the sponson for the front of the sheet to land on.

    Trial fitting:



    Tacked in place with superglue



    And finally, how the two sheets interact. I think it makes a really cool looking transition, and very neat:





    The way i did all of these sheets was to overlap slightly on the top edge. Once it was glued into place i came back with a hand plane and sandpaper to get it perfectly flush:


  30. #60
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    On the home stretch, one final sheet on each sponson to go.

    Before moving to the final sheet, first thing i did on both sponsons was to use the plane and some sandpaper to fair the framing to accept the sheets. In the photo below i concentrated on the sponson former (top of the photo) and getting it shaped roughly in line with the underlying frames



    The usual process of paper template, wood template, hold the template to the sponson and adjust a little bit at a time.



    Glued in place. I left a heap of extra material on top of the sheet which i later planed and sanded down to be a perfect fit with the sponson.







    Did both sponsons at the same time - here they are clamped to dry overnight


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