Preparing for strengthening the glass hatch on my zonda with carbon/epoxy. Any tips? Thank you.
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Preparing for strengthening the glass hatch on my zonda with carbon/epoxy. Any tips? Thank you.
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You'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the inlay to lay flat in the canopy's air intake bump-out and not pull and ripple along the sides as a result. My advice is to fill that area in first with a lightweight filler, and concentrate your inlay efforts on the main canopy and hatch surfaces. Cut your main piece of cloth a good 2" wider on all four sides. You can trim it off with a sharp razor blade once the resin has begun to cure. I usually do that after 2-3hrs. Remove the knurled screw/bolt and put tape over the outside to keep epoxy from leaking through. Sand and vacuum the entire surface, then wipe down with acetone. You're going to have the hardest time with the vertical lip around the perimeter of the hatch and getting the cloth to stay stuck. I use a handheld roller with a narrow teflon wheel (blue handle in the picture I attached) to force the cloth down into that contour continuously as the resin begins to get tacky, and then again in the early stages of setting up.
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Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Great stuff! That?s quite a wealth of chemicals Thanks. Not so easy to see if the epoxy is wet enough? I just go and try. One layer is sufficient? And do you apply a finish coating or blank paint?
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Last edited by ArnoudRC; 03-21-2021 at 04:10 AM.
I wet down the surface of the canopy first with resin and a brush, then lay the carbon fiber cloth down and begin pressing it into place with a foam roller. As you press it into place, the resin will seep through all of the fibers, and the foam roller will continue to redistribute the resin. Add more resin as needed, but sparingly. You don't want it pooled up or too wet. Once I'm happy with how things are laid down, I'll switch to a new dry foam roller, and go over the surface again to soak up any excess resin, wiping it off with an acetone soaked rag when necessary. When cured, you're aiming for a matte or satin finish, not glossy. You can also continue to work the surface and corners as the resin beings to set, before it's cured. I've even gone back after several hours and wiped the surface down with a sponge and acetone to play with final finish appearance, or if too much resin pooled up in a low spot for example.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
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Thank you for the tips
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Nice work
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Looks amazing! Where do you order that piece of carbon fiber?
Just at my local ?boat and epoxy? webshop.
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Can anyone tell me what length the prop stub is on the zonda.
Thanks
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