Hospital Hop...how to stop it?

[JimClark]

Another thought is the CG a little too far back. I assume if you were to let it go it would blow over? Sounds like you are running on the ragged edge?
Jim

[Capt. Crash]

I've not had it try to lift.

Here is the set up. 1 1/16" from hull to bottom of strut (table). Where do I measure the angle....at the end of the taper (yellow dot) fore or where the taper starts (red dot) aft. How does this angle look?

[Grimracer]

wow.. that’s a ton of strut angle..

I use a digital level and a rod in place of the stub shaft the check the shaft.

The hull over all is very solid and the numbers are good..

Remember the boat had to work for all pilots..

Andy.. just so you know.. and im sure you do.. to low or flat a break angle and the boat can blow off with 0 warning. .. personally I hate that.. I would rather have the boat wiggle or something to let me know something bad is about to happen. Gives one time to get her back on the water and FINISH THAT HEAT… very important.

What I was going for was a 40 to 50 mph heat race boat.. Bottom line..

Grim

[Grimracer]

o yea.. Capt. just so you know its called Chine Walk.

ROCK ON and keep testing!

Grim

[detox]

Measure at the red dot using fealer gauge, but like Grim said...that is probably too much angle.

Why do you have wire in the rudder adjustment hole? Do you run the boat with wire in that location?

[Grimracer]

racers,

every time we start talking handling Brians post comes back regarding his SAW run..

DO NOT EXPECT YOUR BOAT TO HEAT RACE AT THAT SET UP.. and please do not START THERE. I personly have NEVER ran the strut that deep.. as I go faster I might but to set the boat.. never..

Start with the strut set where its at from the factory.. if you want to change it (and I recomend it depending on the prop) do it after the first few runs.

Starters.

Set the strut at 15/16"
Set the strut flat on the setup board, I see you have the L40x57/3. Better yet lets start with the 40x52/3.. Just a note.. the L38x55 - 63 and the new L40x57/3 were designed around 0 strut angle.. having said this you MIGHT? have to cup slighty to remove some lift.
Round or shapren the bottom of the rudder
Set the turn fin so the top break is parrell to the foot print with your 15/16" strut height. My setup board has marker lines on the side of it for this.

Test and report.

As a side not.. I do not like turn fins that enter the water at an angle.. and.. truth is that is why the fin is the way it is. its a smaller version of my US-1 Ninja fin with a slight change to the LE..

Grim

[properchopper]

I should be able to report on the before & after results of Darin's ride-pad installation. Both to flatten out the surface & help re-inforce my turn-fin fix I did the G-10 thing today. I'll leave all other settings the same & should get some runs in Sunday & post.

[Capt. Crash]

Measure at the red dot using fealer gauge, but like Grim said...that is probably too much angle.

Why do you have wire in the rudder adjustment hole? Do you run the boat with wire in that location?

My boat came with an almost flat thrust setting and it runs pretty nicely with the 40X52/3 prop at that setting (43mph)...but I couldn't get on plane with the 40X57/3 until I lowered the prop to 1"....now it "Chine Walks" a little too much for my liking.

The brass rod is a thin shear pin. I keep the rudder bolt tight enough that the rudder does not move unless I hit something. I've had the rudder swing up to the shear pin after hitting sticks, buoys and a probable turtle but there wasn't enough force to shear the pin. The pin stops the rudder deep enough in this situation to allow enough control to get the boat back in. It's worked great so far. REMEMBER...I'm only sport racing here....and have among other things big mean Aligator Snapping Turtles to contend with.

As for the thrust angle...I was thinking that the angle I set in the pic was not going to be enough based on the 40X57/3 prop with the 1 1/16" setting. Ya'll think it's too much?

With it set here and no air dam it what should it handle like?

oh...and exactly where should my CG be?

[Capt. Crash]

Round or shapren the bottom of the rudder

So you don't want a factory fresh squared off rudder?

Set the turn fin so the top break is parrell to the foot print with your 15/16" strut height. My setup board has marker lines on the side of it for this.

Grim

Can ya elaborate on this some more with a illustration?

[AndyKunz]

Andy.. just so you know.. and im sure you do.. to low or flat a break angle and the boat can blow off with 0 warning. .. personally I hate that.. I would rather have the boat wiggle or something to let me know something bad is about to happen. Gives one time to get her back on the water and FINISH THAT HEAT… very important.

Mike,

There's a solution to that, too. Get yourself an original UL-1 and you'll see it. You end up with a MORE stable boat.

Andy

[Grimracer]

Andy..

What?

Grim

[Grimracer]

Wait wait wait.. i get it I get it i get it...

Andy... How does that post help Capt. Crash.. Well.. it doesn’t.. It does not help him in anyway..

So Andy what are you really saying with that post?

Sounds again like just spuing info for the good of Andy and his master design the "Original UL-1"…. I detect a sore spot in there..

Capt. Please just read through that stuff bud.. we will get your boat rocken. Yea.. its best to Always round or sharpen the bottom of your rudders.. just standard issue on my race boats.. ya buyem square and sharpen..

Andy.. play this game the way you see fit.. I can tell you now however.. Im not the kind that’s going to comment on how your designs for Proboat work. Its just tacky and not all that professional.. especially when you work for a company (Horzion) that makes products that are in direct competition with ours. Im not going to do that to your boats.. but again its your head.. do as you please.

ROCK ON UL-1 Drivers.. lets get some heat wins.

Grimracer

[Capt. Crash]

ok......

....ummmm.....back to my questions at the end of post #23 please. And can ya show me what you mean about the turn fin setting with a pic or drawing.

Thanks


(I didn't know Andy is affiliated with Pro Boats)

Youz guz need to duke it out with your products on the field of battle...not this thread please!

[properchopper]

ROCK ON UL-1 Drivers.. lets get some heat wins.

Grimracer

Mike, there's EIGHT LSH entries so far at WW V [which allows UL-1's].
Besides myself, only one other racer reports using a 2.4 radio so I'm assuming one or two UL-1's in the class. I'm pretty focused on doing the deal, testing & tuning my a** off . The driver lineup is all totally top notch excluding myself, but
anything can happen
[ BTW my VS-1 is poised & ready as well. 7 OPC entries so far also ]

Tony

[Darin Jordan]

Yea.. its best to Always round or sharpen the bottom of your rudders.. just standard issue on my race boats.. ya buyem square and sharpen..

Mike,

That's so the bottom of the rudder doesn't become a planing surface, right??


I should have noted above... I almost ALWAYS start out with my struts... all of my struts (monos and Hydros) flat... then tune from there... Otherwise, you can end up fighting a self-induced problem... Plus, it puts all of the thrust pointing in the direction it needs to be pointed!!