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Thread: My TFL Zonda

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    196

    Default My TFL Zonda

    So a fellow member and I have been PM'ing back and for with questions he had about setting up his new Zonda and he asked for pictures so I figured I would make a post with pictures and links to the parts . So here we go. The if you order a TFL Zonda from Banggood it doesn't come with a Servo ,receiver or Transmitter. I'm going to try out my Flysky Knoble NB4 with the TFL .

    For the servo I picked up a Traxxas 2075 https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...UaAqcgEALw_wcB Fits perfect in the cut out for the servo.

    I swapped out the TFL 2 piece flex/stub shaft setup for 1 piece Flex shafts from OSE https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...-HD-zonda-twin. You should also pick up https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...=oct-teflon-24 PN# oc187t-24.

    After talking to someone else on another forum you should increase the length of the teflon tubing by 1 inch over the stock teflon tubing.
    You will also need to buy new props http://www.dasboata.com/ I picked up a set OF 442's I think Chris also can make 1 piece flex shafts so you can email him and ask.

    For the Rudder I picked up this https://rcboatbitz.com/product/genes...de-ge316blade/

    I also decided to experiment a little bit and decided to Install a set of Wire drives from http://www.rcraceboat.com/ZelosUpgrades.html . I'm using a set in my Zelos Twin and really like them and after watching a video of someone on youtube that had installed his Zelos Twin 36 flex shafts in his Zonda I figured why not give it a shot with the wire drives. With a bit of dis-assembly trimming and re-assembly they fit right in.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    8

    Default

    This is awesome, thank you again, very very helpful!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    196

    Default

    Glad I can help. I'm still new to RC boats myself. Lot's of learning to do.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1coopgt View Post
    Glad I can help. I'm still new to RC boats myself. Lot's of learning to do.
    For sure, It?s always tough in the beginning, overwhelming.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Tx
    Posts
    9

    Default

    That?s nice. I have the black version. Did some of those upgrades. Keep up the good work. Post a speed run when you can.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CrashBandit View Post
    That?s nice. I have the black version. Did some of those upgrades. Keep up the good work. Post a speed run when you can.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I got the carbon fiber one too!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    162

    Default

    Need to rotate cooling cans so that the exit nipple is on top. Exiting nipple should be the highest point of the can. That was can fills to the max before leaving the boat (better cooling) May want to consider 180amp ESC's as well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnc View Post
    Need to rotate cooling cans so that the exit nipple is on top. Exiting nipple should be the highest point of the can. That was can fills to the max before leaving the boat (better cooling) May want to consider 180amp ESC's as well.
    Thank you for the recommendation John, excuse my ignorance but I?m too new to understand what you?re referring too, I will do some research for sure. I did hear about upgrading to 180amp ESCs, I was thinking to at least enjoy it stock before I started really digging deep.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    162

    Default

    The cooling cans on the motors need to be rotated a bit so that the the water exit nipple is on top.
    Couple more things to think about:
    If you have a dremel with a little grinding wheel, clean up the nut flanges that hold the top down so that there flush with deck flange (cleaner look) If a battery comes loose in a flip it's less likely to damage the battery.
    I also have foam (like what's in the bow area) that I wedge between the motor and battery as well as between the battery and the deck (straps just don't seem hold the battery in a serious flip)
    I'm not sure if your model has floatation on the lid or not (mine didn't, but I have the carbon model) and in a flip i lost it (doesn't float) and there not cheap.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnc View Post
    The cooling cans on the motors need to be rotated a bit so that the the water exit nipple is on top.
    Couple more things to think about:
    If you have a dremel with a little grinding wheel, clean up the nut flanges that hold the top down so that there flush with deck flange (cleaner look) If a battery comes loose in a flip it's less likely to damage the battery.
    I also have foam (like what's in the bow area) that I wedge between the motor and battery as well as between the battery and the deck (straps just don't seem hold the battery in a serious flip)
    I'm not sure if your model has floatation on the lid or not (mine didn't, but I have the carbon model) and in a flip i lost it (doesn't float) and there not cheap.
    Ah okay, thank you for the detailed explanation. Can you please provide some pictures so it?s easier for me to understand what you?re referring to? My model is the carbon fiber one, I?ll have to wait to receive it to open and wedge some foam there, seems like a brilliant idea. I don?t think mine has flotation on the lid either, I was also thinking about getting hatch latches instead of using the marine tape. I?m thinking you?re maybe talking about the same thing?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    162

    Default

    Here's a picture of my blackjack motor (water outlet and foam) that I happen to have on my phone (not at home right now, in lockdown over brothers, both he and I are running a temp ) water line circled is the one exiting out (in the picture don't look like it's the highest point, but it is)
    Even with latch hatch downs you should still use tape. I installed 4 hatch latch downs (screw type) on the Zonda, also installed self adhering screen foam insulation (from the local hardware store) around the supporting lid flange.water.jpgwater.jpgfoam.jpg

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