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Thread: Looking for someone to finish set up of my MHZ Mystic 114

  1. #61
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  2. #62
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    https://www.facebook.com/groups/2166...8371542383719/

    Looking to attempt a maiden this weekend, pending wind and water conditions. Going to do a float test in the tub later today and test water cooling systems. Here's a short motor spool up video. The sound of those Scorpions gives me goosebumps!!!

  3. #63
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    Looks like no maiden this weekend. Did a float test in the bath tub this evening, and water was steadily flowing in from around where the stuffing tubes go thru the transom. Apparently MHZ did a piss-poor job sealing around there when they installed the drives. Also, I tried testing the water pumps, but they won't suck in any water at all. Switched around the hose connections on the pumps thinking maybe they were backwards, but didn't solve the problem either. Wondering now it they wired the motors backwards. If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to inform.

  4. #64
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    I would say that your pumps are fine the way they were originally wired and plumbed.
    The pumps are not usually self priming, seeing that are flow through pumps.
    When you put in the water as soon as you give it some forward movement, the pumps will kick in.
    flow through - means that when the push from your pickups are more flow then the pumps, the water will flow at the rate of the pickups.
    when you pull back up to the dock, or stop out on the water the pumps will take over an continual to cool everything down.
    The heat in your motor will actually build after the power is turned off. This is the best time for the pumps to do their job. Just let it sit and cool down for a minute.


    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  5. #65
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    Thank you for the feedback Larry. I was under the assumption their self priming meant they would pull in water on their own as soon as they are turned on. That makes sense now your explanation. I never had a model with pumps before, so all new to me.
    Well I'll have to take care of the leaky transom problem before doing anything else. Going to use an adhesive sealant to fill in around where the stuffing boxes exit the hull. Hopefully I can get a good seal. One step forward and two steps back with this project!

  6. #66
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    https://www.facebook.com/groups/2166...8371542383719/

    Can't even look at the posts unless you're a member of the group. PBERZINS76 why did you post the link if we can't look at anything in it without joining the facbook group?

  7. #67
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    Sorry! Thought it was viewable...I'll post a new link below.

  8. #68
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  9. #69
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    Well hopefully I solved my water leak issues. I used 3M 5200 adhesive sealant to seal around where the stuffing tubes exit the transom. Will do one more "tub test" to verify no water is coming in. If all passes, then we're off for a maiden.
    Back to the water pumps, MHZ advised that my current 6.6 volt battery may not be powerful enough to run these, and suggested I run a 11.1v pack, as these pumps are rated for 11.1 volts. Received the battery yesterday. Pumps are WAY more powerful now!

  10. #70

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    just FYI the facebook story video links dont work here for some reason.
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  11. #71
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    autolex, thank you kindly for the FYI. Wasn't aware Facebook video links didn't work.

  12. #72

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    I was able to parse the link you sent and fix it:

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/U_NAwFp4-WQ
    DYMotorshop 29er (BUILD) | ProBoat BlackJack 24 (52.2mph) | ProBoat Stealthwake 23 (31.9mph) | Noodle Recovery Barge (6.6mph) | ProBoat JetJam (BUILD)

  13. #73
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    Thank you autolex!!! Was about to give up. Greatly appreciate it!

  14. #74
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    Another disappointing float test this evening...Thought the water leak issue was resolved with sealing around the stuffing tubes. Turns out the water is actually dribbling in from where the hydraulic arms are bolted on to the transom. Took them off to find there is a third hole that was drilled on both sides, I'm guessing to allow the option of connecting the steering thru the hydraulic arms. Needless to say, the holes were not sealed. So I think I'll thread a bolt thru the holes to plug them, along with sealant to make sure a good seal.
    Also I hooked up my 11.1v battery to test the pumps, and they're blowing bubbles out under the hull....So the pumps are definitely running backwards. Will have to reverse the wires on the pump connector. Hopefully I'll get this boat running at some point before the season is over.....

  15. #75
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    no need for hardware in the hydraulic arm holes. You can remove the arms and fill the holes with epoxy for something a little more permanent or just fill with silicone caulk from the inside.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  16. #76
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    I don't even know why MHZ would have put the hydraulic "dummy" arms on this boat, if they weren't going to be used for the actual steering control. I could just fill the holes and leave arms off. But then they'll be visible unless the hull gets painted. There really is no room to seal the holes from inside the hull, as I cannot get back in there. So I'll probably have to fill them from the outside.

  17. #77
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    Back to my pumps running backwards, think I've been
    overthinking this... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but instead of reversing polarity of the wiring, all I have to do is reverse the hoses on the pumps?

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by pberzins76 View Post
    Back to my pumps running backwards, think I've been
    overthinking this... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but instead of reversing polarity of the wiring, all I have to do is reverse the hoses on the pumps?
    could be. a quick bath tub test will confirm if it works.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  19. #79
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    I epoxied the holes and reinstalled the hydraulic arms, and used sealant on the mounting screws. Did another float test, and no water coming in from there now. I am still getting a little water leaking though, but looks like its dripping from back where the rudder bracket bolts go thru the transom. I was ready to maiden her this weekend, but the amount of water still coming in is still a little more than I like to see. Will next see if I can fill the rudder area with silicone.
    I switched the ports on my pumps, and they now work beautifully. Huge streams shooting out. Will try and post a vid!

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  21. #81
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    20220722_174232.jpg
    20220722_174320.jpg

    On way to marina...Hoping for a smooth and successful maiden this weekend!

  22. #82
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    Well I had my maiden run of my Mystic this evening. Was rather brief, as after three passes, the bond between my starboard flex cable and stub shaft failed. Thought at first it was the cable slipping in the collet.
    Luckily I didn't lose the prop, and was able to bring it in without getting on the rescue boat! But I did get a very brief taste of the boat's performance, and it was almost terrifying!!! For sure the fastest boat I've driven so far. I could definitely use a much larger area to run this beast to really feel more comfortable. Handles quite a bit different than my TFL 56" Genesis I'm used to driving, especially in regards with the steering. So definitely will have to get used to it. Checked temps, and everything seemed to be alright, though again, it was only a few minutes of running the boat.
    So I'll have to re-locktite that flex and stub shaft, and then try again hopefully next weekend. I might also order an extra flex cable set from MHZ just to have backups on hand. But overall, I was very impressed with how the boat ran.
    Last edited by pberzins76; 07-23-2022 at 10:50 PM.

  23. #83
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    I got some Loctite 303 high strength retaining compound coming. Should get it by Wednesday. From what I have read in the forums, this appears to be the ideal stuff. We'll see! I also went ahead and ordered another set of flex cables from MHZ to have as backups. Hopefully I can get the cable all re-glued up for the weekend when I'm planning to take her out again. Hopefully for a longer run than I had the other day. I'll see if I can get some video/pics of the boat actually running next time too.

  24. #84
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    I use Loctite 648. I have never had a failure. A friend of mine uses it on his drive dogs on 1/4" shafts with no grub screws. I think that's taking it a little to far, but with proper preparation, its a really strong bond.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    I use Loctite 648. I have never had a failure. A friend of mine uses it on his drive dogs on 1/4" shafts with no grub screws. I think that's taking it a little to far, but with proper preparation, its a really strong bond.
    The prep is where it's at I agree.

  26. #86
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    Made my second attempt running the boat today. Got almost two minutes of running time before my starboard motor collet spun loose and lost both the prop and shaft. I don't understand why it spun free, as I torqued down real good, as I always do and I made sure to wipe the cable of any greese before it entered the collet...Amd I decided to not put on the cable savers this time; bad decision, I guess. But anyways, I did get some video of the run.

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  28. #88
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    Paul
    You be careful running around real boats.
    A few years a young kid was running in a marina in Rochester NY.
    He lost his radio connection, his toy boat hit a brand Sea Ray broad side. tied to the dock.
    The Sea Ray sank on the spot. 10" hole at the water line.
    His father lost his big boat, and part of his house.
    His insurance would not cover him.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  29. #89
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    Thanks for expressing your concerns Larry, and sharing that incident...Something like that happening is always in the back of my mind whenever I run my boats at my marina. I always try to be as cautious as possible, but understand anything can happen in this hobby.
    Unfortunately I don't have anywhere else to run my boats at in my area. There's a pond at a local park I also use sometimes. But not very big, and is generally unusable because of the algae growth most of the summer. Lake Erie is not an option because water conditions most of the time are not suited for running on.

  30. #90
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    Made some inhancements to the drive train on the boat recently. I replaced the TFL motor couplers with these high end couplings from a guy in Germany. These utilize E11 collets, and have a lot longer gripping surface on the flex shaft. I got them in black and gold to compliment my Scorpions. I also trimmed back about a half inch off my stuffing tubes, and now have plenty of space between the new couplings and the stuffing tube bearings for the shaft savers. Going to run the boat this weekend, and hoping the updated drive train resolves my last issues.

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