Looking for someone to finish set up of my MHZ Mystic 114

[pberzins76]

I just took delivery of a MHZ Mystic 114. I ordered the ARTR version with all the drive and motor mounts installed. In addition, I ordered two MHZ Scorpion (MHZ-HK-4035-1260KV) out runner motors that were recommended fit for this boat per MHZ's site, and requested to have them install the motors and a few other components.
I received my order on Friday, and found they didn't install the motors as I requested, but they did install the other items. Last night, I was trial fitting the motors into the boat and I immediately found issues. First, the motor holes don't match any of the holes on the carbon motor mounts. Also, the motor's 8mm diameter shaft is too long to allow any room to install the collet to connect the flex shaft. Either the motor mounts need to be removed and repositioned further forward or the stuffing tubes need to be cut way back.
I am asking on here if anyone knows of someone who I could farm this work out to? All my boats in my fleet are factory RTR from TFL, and I don't have a whole lot of building experience. I made a sizable purchase and I don't feel comfortable tackling this work out of concern of doing something wrong and messing up. If anyone on here does setups, (or knows of a reputable person) please send me a message.

[1coopgt]

Pictures? There's only one way to learn. I'm in that learning process myself. I've got 5 RTR's and my 6th is a 1/8th scale hydro I'm building.

[Jesse J]

Hi Paul, welcome.
Are you willing to ship, or are looking for someone near you?
If you ship, be VERY careful of whom you ship to! Being new here you really need to verify as much as possible before you send your boat and parts.

[pberzins76]

I'll take some pics and post in a little bit of the issues. I did read a few minutes ago on MHZ's site regarding mounting this Scorpion 4035 motor that the inner bolt circle needs to be enlarged in order to use the mounts that are in the boat. So guessing they means I just need to notch the holes wider. Also the stuffing tubes looks like it will have to be cut back an 1" -1-1/4" to make clearance for the drive collet. Its probably doable on my end, but still not sure if I should attempt on my own. Like I said, I really don't want to screw anything up!

Thanks, Jesse J! I would be willing to ship out of state, but ONLY if I can verify its reputable person/company.

[Jesse J]

I’d be willing to help in whatever way you like.
I’ll pm my contact info.
Jesse

[pberzins76]

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[pberzins76]

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[pberzins76]

Above are some pics of one of the motors fitted on the bulkhead. Sorry these aren't the best. Was fumbling trying to figure out how to post pics on here. But you can see how close the motor's shaft is to the stuffing tube bearing. Obviously no room to couple up to the flex cable unless the stuffing tube is shortened to allow more space. I sent MHZ this morning these pics and told them about the bolt pattern issue. Waiting to hear back as to if they can offer me advice on how to get this to work.

[1coopgt]

Do you have a Dremel Tool? You could cut off .25" of the motor shaft. Pull the motor out and put the coupler on the shaft and see where everything is measure a lot before cutting. If you cut to much off you'll be buying a new motor or motors. Just my 2 cents. I don't think this is that bad.

[pberzins76]

I was pondering the idea of cutting the motor shaft, but wasn't sure if that would damage the motor or throw something off balance. These were pricy gems, and I don't want to wreck them! I just ordered two couplers 8mm to 3/8 from MarineFE this evening. When I get them, I'll trial assemble and see where things are at. I'm hoping to hear something back from MHZ sometime tomorrow. Really like to hear their input on how I should go about getting this ironed out. When I initially emailed them regarding ordering their ARTR package, I specifically requested assembly service to install the motors as well as water pumps and a main power switch, and they told me to make sure to include my assembly requests on my order, which I spelled out to the T. They did install all the other parts, but not the motors which disappointed me considering they said they were going to.

[vvviivvv]

Before you go cutting or modifying anything id wait to hear a outcome from MHZ, I know a gent who ordered a MHZ mystic (bigger hull), the laminating was terrible quality and it received lots of negative feedback online - but they did ship him a properly laminated hull.

I don't think its appropriate at all to sell a hull like this with incompatible mounting parts, the mounts also look pretty thin...

[pberzins76]

I absolutely agree, they should not be selling these expensive hulls with incompatable equipment. It is especially upsetting they didnt fully follow through on my request.
MHZ replied back asking me to send pics with the flex cable in place. So ill take some more tonight and resend. Definately will not do any cutting of anything until they give me feedback.

[vvviivvv]

I don't know what your plans are for the boat but isn't the KV a little on the low side? or are you planning 7 & 8 s?

I'm running 1600KV 7&8s on a similar sized hull (Hpr115)

[pberzins76]

Was planning on starting out on 6S and ultimately moving up to 8S once all set up correctly. Not looking to go crazy breaking speed records, as I'm mainly a casual boater. I'd be content to hit the upper 70s/low 80s. I chose these motors because they were the higher end choice MHZ has listed for this package on their site.

[pberzins76]

Update on my Mystic, MHZ got back to me the other day and they said the easy option eould be to trim my motor shafts down to allow room for my couplers and I should be fine. So I just have to wait until the couplers come.
In the mesn time, I went ahead and enlarged the holes on the motor mounts and mounted the motors. The port side wasn't too bad, as I just used a thin round ratail file, and didn't need to make too big of cut. The starboard side a differant story. Found out in addition to enlarging the hole, I had to notch the holes downward because the motor sat too high and would not line up with the driveline. I used my dremel, and took quite some time to get it where iI think it should be. I used SS flatwashers to back the bolts.

[pberzins76]

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[vvviivvv]

Update on my Mystic, MHZ got back to me the other day and they said the easy option eould be to trim my motor shafts down to allow room for my couplers and I should be fine. So I just have to wait until the couplers come.
In the mesn time, I went ahead and enlarged the holes on the motor mounts and mounted the motors. The port side wasn't too bad, as I just used a thin round ratail file, and didn't need to make too big of cut. The starboard side a differant story. Found out in addition to enlarging the hole, I had to notch the holes downward because the motor sat too high and would not line up with the driveline. I used my dremel, and took quite some time to get it where iI think it should be. I used SS flatwashers to back the bolts.

Easy option for them. Personally I'd be asking for them to rebuild the boat so the components work or get a motor with a shorter shaft.

Don't want to put a damper on your brand new boat as I know it's a sizeable investment in one of the better hulls on the market but I also don't want you to get mugged off by MHZ

[vvviivvv]

For example, I'm running lehner 2250's, you could get a smaller motor for sure as 2250's are power beasts for serious speed.. but the shaft is 1cm shorter than the 4035

see here

[vvviivvv]

Also find it strange a 5kw motor comes with 4mm plugs? I guess 8s equates to 160 amps to get 5kw but id still like some high quality 6mm...

[pberzins76]

Well one of my collets arrived during the week. The reverse thread coupler is on BO according to MarineFe. I took my motors to a machine shop around the corner from where I work on Friday, and had 1/2" of the shafts cut down, deburred and also ground in a flat for the collet grub screws. Took about an hour and he did a great job, and the guy didn't want any money when I offered to pay him! Don't find that too often!!!
Anyways, so I reinstalled the one motor with the collet attached. I slid the flex cable up, and it went straight into the coupling, so looks like I did alright with alignment. The tolerance is very close regarding spacing between the coupler and the stuffing tube bearing/flex saver, as the flex saver has about a 1/16" gap between the end of the coupler and the stuffing tube bearing. Just have enough room to loosen the collet enough to pull the flex cable. I turn the motor by hand and everything turns nice and freely from what I can feel. I know about leaving 4mm-5mm gap at the drive dog end to allow for flex shrinkage during high speed, but anyone think there are any concerns at the motor end because everything is up close? Pic below of the drivetrain.

[pberzins76]

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[pberzins76]

I still can grind a tad more off the motor shaft if it is necessary to increase the spacing between the coupling and stuffing tube. Or worst case scenario, I can just forgo using the flex savers and run without them...Just make sure my collets are thoroughly tight, which I do always anyways.....Or find something thinner for a flex saver?

[fweasel]

If it were my boat, I'd get rid of the the cable savers in favor of more room. I never use them anyway. I prefer more exposed flex cable in front of the collet so that I have room to wipe off grease before the cable slips into the collet. If I "had" to run the cable savers, I'd look into cutting the stuffing tubes back about 5mm, then remounting the bearing and oiler assembly.

[1coopgt]

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What's the Black piece next to the cable saver? Guessing your planning on using oil instead of grease on the flex cables?

[pberzins76]

Fweasel,I may just omit using the cable savers altogether to allow room for wiping off any grease before inserting the flex shaft into the couplers, as you suggested. I already had to do enough modifications (which I didn't expect I was going to have to do) to get the motors to fit, and I really don't want to do anymore cutting of things regarding cutting down stuffing tubes, etc.
1coopgt, the black piece is a stuffing tube bearing assembly with a built in oiler. I always just grease up my cables, so I'm not sure if I'll ever use the oiler. But its there as an option, I guess.
I still have to cut my flex cables to length, but I probably won't do that until the other coupler comes. I am looking at ESC's now, and open to any input/recommendations. Considering the ZTW ESCs. MHZ recommends 200-240 amp ESCs for these motors, and I been trying to figure if I should go with a 200 amp unit, which handles up to 8S. Or should I go with the 300 amp unit? Steven couldn't really tell me, as he hasn't had any experience with these motors. I asked RCBoatBitz, and they said the 200 amp would be more than enough for these motors. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! MHZ only lists the extremely pricy MGM Controllers, which look quite nice...But I would be looking at $800.00+ per unit, so that would most likely be overkill for my setup...But I could be wrong.

[1coopgt]

If you are going to use grease I would take the oiler and bearing off if they aren't needed. Which will also give you a little room between the end of the stuffing tube and the collet.

[rscheffer]

Rather big motors for a 115 mystic i have the 2x 4035-800 on 10 s in my 138 mystic ( also a nother 135 cm cat and in a 115 mono for that mather ) total running x457 props 5 min at 120 kmh .
https://youtu.be/qj3uZmAsyr8 ps 5514 103 kmh 6 min

[vvviivvv]

Fweasel,I may just omit using the cable savers altogether to allow room for wiping off any grease before inserting the flex shaft into the couplers, as you suggested. I already had to do enough modifications (which I didn't expect I was going to have to do) to get the motors to fit, and I really don't want to do anymore cutting of things regarding cutting down stuffing tubes, etc.
1coopgt, the black piece is a stuffing tube bearing assembly with a built in oiler. I always just grease up my cables, so I'm not sure if I'll ever use the oiler. But its there as an option, I guess.
I still have to cut my flex cables to length, but I probably won't do that until the other coupler comes. I am looking at ESC's now, and open to any input/recommendations. Considering the ZTW ESCs. MHZ recommends 200-240 amp ESCs for these motors, and I been trying to figure if I should go with a 200 amp unit, which handles up to 8S. Or should I go with the 300 amp unit? Steven couldn't really tell me, as he hasn't had any experience with these motors. I asked RCBoatBitz, and they said the 200 amp would be more than enough for these motors. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! MHZ only lists the extremely pricy MGM Controllers, which look quite nice...But I would be looking at $800.00+ per unit, so that would most likely be overkill for my setup...But I could be wrong.

nobody will tell you what esc to use too many factors and easy to get something wrong. you could get a set of the smaller MGM's but again probably not necessary

[pberzins76]

Just a brief update. Per the recommendations from RCBoatBitz and MHZ, I went ahead and placed an order for the ZTW 200 amp ESCs, as they are rated for using the max cell count recommended for these motors per MHZ's site. Having Steven's crew install the gold plated bullet connectors and will ship them once finished. Also ordered the programming box for the ESC's. Still waiting on the backordered reverse thread coupler from MarineFe to arrive before I do any more work on the boat itself. I can then cut the flex cables to the correct length, and hopefully I should be all squared away regarding the drivetrain/powerplants. Rest of the build, I imagine, should be pretty straight forward...Install the ESC's, steering servo, receiver, plum the cooling lines, and tidy up wiring.

[fweasel]

No need for a reverse thread collet. If they're properly tightened down, it won't matter what direction they're spinning.