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Thread: Russian Novgorod.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    MI
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    162

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    Question:
    Looks like motors, stuffing tubes are going to be below the waterline of the hull, is there going to be a problem with water working it way in and flooding? I know they'll (shafts/Teflon) be greased well and all, but??
    As far as props spinning outward or inward i would start inward (most twins are inwards is my thinking) But, it wouldn't be much trouble to change them out and try both ways.
    Wish I had the time, patience and tools to start something even near like that.
    Any Idea's as far as painting goes?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Ql
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    Hi John.
    A good point you raise.
    But even though the shafts are below the waterline I don't expect any water in the boat from them.
    The shafts are solid stainless steel. There is a sealed stainless steel roller bearing in each end of the shafts.
    Plus, I will be packing the stuffing tubes with marine bearing grease (the blue stuff I use on all my flex drives) to totally seal the shafts.
    No teflon liners required in this type of setup.

    As these props will only be spinning at around 350 revs, I don't think inwards or outwards will make much difference. The boat will only be travelling at a very slow walking pace.
    The comment about prop rotation was a bit of tongue in cheek on my part really.

    As for painting.
    The decks will be clear varnished with a satin finish.
    The metalware will be the usual battleship grey.
    Red Oxide below the waterline.
    From the images I've seen, the armour plating around the edge of the deck and hull seems to be black. So I'll go with that.
    I'm undecided on the funnels at this point. Some images show them as a buff/cream, or yellow colour. Some show them as black. I'll decide on that as we get closer to the finish line.
    Cheers.
    Paul.
    Last edited by 785boats; 02-21-2021 at 12:12 AM.

  3. #33
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    Nov 2008
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    Ql
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    Yesterday I decided to add the armour plating ring around the edge of the deck. Not sure if it was actually armour plating, but in the first pic below, there is a band of some sort between the deck and the waterline. I will still be putting those thick plates around the edge of the deck too.

    Firstly I had to make & fit the rudder block to the stern? of the ship. Is there a stern on a round ship?

    I had left the deck slightly oversize to allow for final fitting.
    I wraped two layers of masking tape around the hull then sanded the edge of the deck flush with the tape.
    The theory being that after the band had been glued onto the edge of the deck, and then the tape removed, there would be a slight gap all round. It seemed to work.

    The band is simply a 20mm wide strip of 1/16" aircraft ply. I had to cut the strip that goes around the rudder block, across the grain, to allow it to bend easily around those bends.
    I simply stitch glued the strip every few inches with a drop of medium CA glue. Removed the complete deck and ran a bead of the CA all around the join on the underside. Solid as.
    It will be even more solid when the overlapping plates are added around the edge of the deck.

    Here are the visuals.

    The armour plating band between the deck and the black paint.
    P3ZZNIqv9FP2v-fta0ZSzUBJhXZ8suh8heR5RRVe7vE.jpg

    Double layer of tape around the hull to create a gap. The band partly done.
    IMAG0260.jpg

    All finished & deck removed to apply the bead all round the joint on the underside.
    IMAG0262.jpg

    A nice snug fit.
    IMAG0265.jpg

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    CO
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    6,563

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    Dang bro! You got some tenacity! Looking real good!
    I think the question is more about what will reduce performance the least!?!?
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  5. #35
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    Nov 2008
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    Ql
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    Thanks Jesse.
    I don't think I will be able to reduce performance at all. It won't have any to start with according to the information on the real one.

    I asked the question to a couple of club members on Saturday about the conical coverings over the shafts. And ol' mate Graham suggested funnels. What? I exclaimed. Much too broard an angle. No you dolt, he said. Not the main funnel, but the spout part.
    Brilliant.
    So on the way home from work today,
    I stopped at the local hardware store & found some packs of 4 small varying sized funnels. At only 5 bucks a pack, I bought 4 of them thinking that should cover the different length shafts.
    Turns out I needed 2 of the mid sized ones for the longer outboard shafts, and 4 of the next size down for the other shafts.
    After a bit of cutting and shaping to fit the contours of the hull, I think I have a good enough representation compared to that photo in my last post.
    I've got a lot of funnels left over for future projects. :-)


    They aren't glued on yet. I'll do that tomorrow.

    m_IMAG0271.jpg

    m_IMAG0270.jpg

    m_IMAG0269.jpg

  6. #36
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    You could use them to funnel your creative juices!
    Very cool Paul!
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  7. #37
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    Nov 2008
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    Ql
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    Well I funneled some of those juices into a bit more work.
    I trimmed the main cabin with some 3mm pcv angle and planked the roof.
    Then I decided to make the two main guns. Mainly because they will determine the depth of the floor in the barbette.
    I want to set the floor up to rotate so I need a starting depth.
    After sketching up some drawings & sizes, I gathered a few bits & bobs to see what would work and ended up using some aluminium tubing, 20mm conduit and some black sprinkler hose.
    Just need to finish them off and make up the bases for them now.

    m_IMAG0323.jpg


    m_IMAG0325.jpg


    m_IMAG0327.jpg


    m_IMAG0328.jpg

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