Zippkits jae 21fe v2 outrigger_wood kit build

[sammyha]

A few notes on the previous four pictures. I uploaded them kind of late last night, hehe...

The pvc clamps were Mike's idea, from his manual for the ML Boatworks RSX380. I added the strips of urethane, zip tied on the ends to protect the wood. A simple improvement.

The pine board I have screwed to my building board is straight and parallel on the sides(as it's oriented in the picture), but has a crown on the top(the edge of the board).

I clamped the side pieces slightly above that crown. There is enough flex to the side pieces that you could build it crooked. The point is, check the pine board with a straight edge. The laser cut edges in the side pieces of plywood were dead straight.

Screwing the pine board upright to my building board sure made it handy to work on the bottom ski...

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[sammyha]

I'm catching up on editing my build videos. Here's a video on epoxying in the motor mount, stuffing tube and sponson rod tubes with a bit more detail in the videos, if you want to watch them...

https://youtu.be/pU8C6SWKebc

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[sammyha]

Here's the completed bottom ski.



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[sammyha]

The fit of the Speedmaster strut is just lovely!



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[sammyha]

With the shallower 14-1/2 degree motor angle, I'm real happy with how the stuffing tube fits in the bottom ski without a sharp bend...



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[sammyha]

Ok, next is a sketch I've drawn showing the stock motor angle and my modified motor angle.

And I've talked on my other threads about how I think in sketches. It really helps me visualize things and work out solutions to modifications.



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[sammyha]

Now look at the sketch again.

Do you see the problem with my removable stuffing tube?

Yup... It's not removable.

And after drawing this sketch, I realized something else. The stock stuffing tube is bent over a longer distance. Because the bend can continue into the tub! So even with the 18 degree motor angle, the bend is softer.

My decision to go with a removable stuffing tube has compounded into multiple design changes that I'm being forced to make.

1- It must have a straight section thru the bottom to be removable.
2- Then I had to form a tighter bend to fit in the bottom ski.
3- And lower the motor angle to soften that bend.
4- Then lengthen the slot in the bottom of the tub and the former due to the lower motor angle.
5- And repair the longer slot in the tub bottom and the former.
6- AND IT'S STILL NOT REMOVABLE!


Stay tuned. I have a solution.

Comment if you know what it is.

Hint: I keep the removable stuffing tube design...

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[bhorowitz]

Sam,
I think a lot of people install the ski with double sided tape.

[sammyha]

Sam,
I think a lot of people install the ski with double sided tape.

Really?! I'm surprised to hear that...

But yes, that's what I'm thinking of doing. Not the double sided tape. But make it removable.

I think not having access to the stuffing tube is a bad idea. Which was going to be my next question.

Would an angled pin thru a doubler on the floor in the front, and two screws into blind nuts, one in the middle and one in the back hold the ski on?

Maybe a couple of strips of 1/8" basswood on the inside to key it too?

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[sammyha]

Here's how I made the bottom ski removable...



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[sammyha]

That's a 1/8" dowel running on a 45 degree angle thru a doubler on the tub floor up front. Same idea I've seen guys use to attach their cowling...



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[sammyha]

Two stainless steel 4-40 button head cap screws and washers, screwed into the blind nut plates in the back.



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[sammyha]

Finally, here's an overall look at the fit and finish of the removable bottom ski...



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[Chrisk7]

Brilliant Sam! Looking very nice.

[sammyha]

Brilliant Sam! Looking very nice.

Thank you. I'm pretty happy with it...

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[sammyha]

I get the inside of the tub and the bottom ski sealed...

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[sammyha]

I bought a 12" x 48" sheet of 1/16" birch plywood from Balsa USA.

And got all the pieces cut for making a scratch built stealth cowling...



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[sammyha]

Here's the dimensions for anyone who's interested...



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[sammyha]

Here's the stealth cowling mocked up...

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[sammyha]

Second coat of sealer on the inside of the tub, and epoxied in an ESC tray...



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[sammyha]

I know you guys know about my YouTube build series, and I'm not doing this to get views. There's just so much more info passed along in the video format.

Here's a link to Part 11 of the series, the stealth cowling layout and dimensions are in the second half of the video...

https://youtu.be/p4QwpIdXglE

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[sammyha]

The scratch built stealth cowling is coming together...



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[sammyha]

It's surprisingly light. Still want to at least fiberglass the outside corners. I think it's worth the extra weight for looks alone...



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[sammyha]

There's a lot more room under there...



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[sammyha]

I can't wait till tomorrow.

It's always good to be over this scramble...

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[sammyha]

Here's a detail I forgot to show about changing to a one piece cowling. I removed the center web from the top deck, made two 25-1/2" lips, and routed two notches to clear the lips...



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[sammyha]

I used 2 ounce fiberglass to reinforce the stealth cowling. I have all butt joints, no interlocking tabs...



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[sammyha]

Make sure you build a left and a right sponson!

I now have all the sheeting on the sponsons.



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[sammyha]

I'm leaving the extra width on the ride pads hanging on the outside of the sponsons. I tapered the non-trip pads up to the nose blocks.

Experience tells me the extra area will help carry the heavier 6s setup.



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[sammyha]

Want a nice uniform radius? Sand two 45 degree angles, keeping them uniform. Blend the radius to those surfaces, checking the shadow of the radius often...



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