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Thread: Zippkits jae 21fe v2 outrigger_wood kit build

  1. #121
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    My stealth cowling attaches with magnets. No tape! Hooray!

    The front is locked down with a tab. The round metal buttons are held down with the magnets and can't slide back because they're backed up with a former.



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  2. #122
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    To remove, pull the clear tab up to release the magnets and slide the cowling backwards.

    It's a clean looking setup...



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  3. #123
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    Here's a link to a video on my stealth cowling attaching with magnets...

    https://youtu.be/tPdVBvs5dvw

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  4. #124
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    I have some pictures to share. I've installed the rest of the electronic components and hardware that make it go.

    These final details of a build takes hours, but is very enjoyable to me...



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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-22-2020 at 06:11 PM.

  5. #125
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    The transmitter is programmed, and I've bound the receiver with a 4.8 volt pack.

    And plugged in the lipos and taught the throttle end points. Without a smoke show!

    I've also set the motor timing, LVC, and motor start power with the ZTW programming card. The motor direction was right on the first try...



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  6. #126
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    I'm 0.7 ounces over the high end of the recommended weight range of 5 to 7-1/2 pounds. Not bad considering the electronic components I have in there. It should pull that weight fine if it floats...



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  7. #127
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    The CG is about a 1/2" behind the back of the turn fin right now when I hang it. That's with the slightly lighter You & Me lipos all the way back. The Revolectrix lipos are about 4 ounces heavier, so I can easily move the CG farther back using them.

    I'm not a fan of too far rearward CG settings. I feel like they over steer and hook the turns. I'll have to run it and see. Zippkits riggers really do turn strong. Maybe that's why.

    But very cool stuff, I have my electronic components where they need to be...



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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-22-2020 at 06:16 PM.

  8. #128
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    Here's an accurate way to check CG. They recommend 60/40, I'm at 64/36 right now.

    I have it setting on the back edge of the sponsons on boxes, and the tub sitting level...

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  9. #129
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    Me posing with my latest creation...



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  10. #130
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    Here's a YouTube link to the last video in this build. Just go watch it, you'll see so much more watching a video...

    https://youtu.be/G9RRsViDYs8

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  11. #131
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    I purchased the Zippkits stand and built that too.

    Two coats of sealer and two colors on it adds more time to building a stand, but sure adds a nice touch to it...



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  12. #132
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    Very nice! I love every bit of this!
    BTW: The original name was 33FE. The boat length in the name seemed like a good idea. We had a substantial number of customers ask what happened to the 21FE.
    So the 33FE is the 21FEV2. Around here, it's the '33...

    Keep up the great work, and post a vid of your facial expression with the first run...

    Joe

  13. #133
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    Got the maiden done in the hot pond...

    https://youtu.be/FPErUHwhB18

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  14. #134
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    Looks good. I like that spot what a way to spend a Saturday a little late season ice fishing and in between bites run my boat. Lol
    Great to see your build go from start to finish have fun this summer running and tuning.
    :canada

  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezhitz View Post
    Looks good. I like that spot what a way to spend a Saturday a little late season ice fishing and in between bites run my boat. Lol
    Great to see your build go from start to finish have fun this summer running and tuning.
    Thank you. Yes, that's a very unique place to test a boat in February.

    Zippkits designs are so good. I feel that was such a solid run on a bench tune...

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  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Petro View Post
    Very nice! I love every bit of this!
    BTW: The original name was 33FE. The boat length in the name seemed like a good idea. We had a substantial number of customers ask what happened to the 21FE.
    So the 33FE is the 21FEV2. Around here, it's the '33...

    Keep up the great work, and post a vid of your facial expression with the first run...

    Joe
    This is me loving how the maiden run went...

    I posted a link to the first run video above. Both runs were bench tune setup only...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 03-15-2021 at 01:36 PM.

  17. #137
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    There's a good reason why I haven't posted a second run video. The removable bottom ski I built for this rigger blew off.

    Gone. Never to be found...

    Here's Version 2...



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  18. #138
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    With how Version 1 attached and fit, I never thought this would happen.



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  19. #139
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    I couldn't give up on the idea of access for changing the stuffing tube.

    I also had no idea of the bottom ski dimensions.

    This was not good. I want to run this rigger again. Can't run it without the bottom ski.

    What to do?

    Anyway, here's a link to the build video for my Version 2 bottom ski. The whole story of what I did is here...

    https://youtu.be/ijak8OapH54

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    Last edited by sammyha; 06-05-2021 at 08:38 PM.

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    I want to run this rigger again. Can't run it without the bottom ski.
    I'd give it a go, I ripped the ski off my V1 in a race and couldn't tell the difference in the way it performed or handled. I never bothered remaking it.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  21. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    I'd give it a go, I ripped the ski off my V1 in a race and couldn't tell the difference in the way it performed or handled. I never bothered remaking it.
    Interesting. On mine I knew right away. In hindsight it was probably because the strut kicked back when the bottom ski blew off. It was tilted way up, kept squatting down in the back.

    Anyway, it's fixed now. Too windy today for a test run...

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  22. #142
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    I got the JAE 33FE out for a re-maiden today. This is only the third time running this rigger. I did the maiden, then blew the bottom ski off the second time I took it out.

    So I've adjusted the turn fin to level across the top(was 1-1/2 degrees positive) and I'm trying a different prop. ABC 1820-22-45(2) CLL. Also I'm running HRB 7000mAh 55C lipos this time.

    I think that's the only changes from the original bench tune other than 60% dual rates on the steering.

    I'm not pushing it, just getting a run in and enjoying having it back on the water.

    Here's a link to the running video...

    https://youtu.be/g6YRnaGGWY0

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    Last edited by sammyha; 06-14-2021 at 12:22 PM.

  23. #143
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    I made some major changes to my JAE 33FE.

    I didn't care for how heavy it felt on the water. The kit specs give a weight range of 5-7.5 pounds. The high end of that range did not feel good to me.

    I also overheated the TP Power motor in another boat. Didn't feel like it was all there.

    I stayed with 6s, went with a Neu motor, 1515/2D, 2050Kv. And a Flycolor 150 amp ESC.

    This upgrade was not cheap tbh. But, I have zero buyer's remorse. This rigger checks all the boxes for me now.

    I shed a little over a pound out of the boat...



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    Last edited by sammyha; 06-14-2021 at 02:08 PM.

  24. #144
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    Here's what the new setup looks like...

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  25. #145
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    Other than a turn fin angle adjustment and steering dual rates, it's still running mostly off the bench.

    And the ABC 1914 prop selection came from Greg Schweers.

    Thank you Greg, you nailed it!

    I got 72 mph top speed running laps and the electronic temps are beautiful. Motor 105 F, ESC 95 F, if I remember right.

    Here's a link to the video. If anything it feels like it's still setup a bit wet. I had no concerns that it would blow off. There's a couple laps in there that were pinned thru the turns...

    https://youtu.be/8ebt_Tpy4as

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    Last edited by sammyha; 06-14-2021 at 02:05 PM.

  26. #146
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    The CG on this rigger was set at 1/2" behind the back edge of the turn fin in my last video. That's with the front of the batteries at the front edge of the tray. With the batteries all the way back, almost touching the last former, that moves the CG to 3/4" behind the turn fin. Doesn't change the CG very much.

    Also, I had my turn fin set level to the tub. The strut was level too. Zippkit says set the strut level and leave it there. Got 72 mph out of her. Felt solid, with no tendency to blow off.

    I'm going to try the CG at 3/4" behind the turn fin next. Just change one thing.

    Can anyone with a 33 tell me where their CG is, and how their boat is running?

    My feeling is changing the angle of the turn fin will loosen it up more than moving the CG back.

    I like how it's staying on the water right now. Will try some other props too, I'm thinking...


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  27. #147
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    JAE 33FE hit 74.4 mph this morning. I'm making some good progress tuning this rigger...

    https://youtu.be/poV-2r1HsPw

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  28. #148
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    The turn fin has the most influence on ride attitude, as outlined in the instruction manual. Being curved, it acts as a hydrofoil if not perfectly level with the running attitude. You can take advantage of this effect to raise or lower the nose with just a fin adjustment. Kick the bottom forward and the nose comes up. Kicked back the boat gets tight to the water. It is very, very sensitive. Best case to worst case is probably at least 20 mph... Really.

    CG is not critical, and has the most influence on the turns, as long as you are in the ballpark (and it's a big park), it has little effect on running attitude.

    Keep in mind that props will change the ride attitude, so a fin adjustment may be required after a prop change.
    Just try to run the boat as loose as you can, without it climbing up on the fin, or doing anything else funny.

    Most riggers will not blow over unless something is wonky.

    Also, there should never be a reason to service or change the shaft tube. It is well protected, and should never wear out. Removable skis serve only to frustrate...

    The boat looks great!

  29. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Petro View Post
    The turn fin has the most influence on ride attitude, as outlined in the instruction manual. Being curved, it acts as a hydrofoil if not perfectly level with the running attitude. You can take advantage of this effect to raise or lower the nose with just a fin adjustment. Kick the bottom forward and the nose comes up. Kicked back the boat gets tight to the water. It is very, very sensitive. Best case to worst case is probably at least 20 mph... Really.

    CG is not critical, and has the most influence on the turns, as long as you are in the ballpark (and it's a big park), it has little effect on running attitude.

    Keep in mind that props will change the ride attitude, so a fin adjustment may be required after a prop change.
    Just try to run the boat as loose as you can, without it climbing up on the fin, or doing anything else funny.

    Most riggers will not blow over unless something is wonky.

    Also, there should never be a reason to service or change the shaft tube. It is well protected, and should never wear out. Removable skis serve only to frustrate...

    The boat looks great!
    Thanks for the tips. I hadn't thought of it, but it makes sense there's a balance between the turn fin and prop. Front and back of the boat.

    Sounds like I should stick with my current prop and tweak the turn fin since I'm pushing 75 mph now...

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  30. #150
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    I did a modification to my stealth cowling. Added a single OSE cowl screw and nut to the back end of it. Now I'm confident enough to get away from using tape on the cowling. I machined the thumb screw head thinner for a cleaner look...


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