zelos 48g to e conversion(new hull)

[sdbird]

conversion project new zelos 48g hull to electric

big thank you to the ose storefront for all the help with a very large parts list


1st test run with 2 smc 4s 120c 9700mah in series stock prop

https://youtu.be/GY3SKe1T6VY

[sdbird]

a few more pics

[Fluid]

A nice looking conversion! To improve performance and reliability I?d suggest the following:

- There is way too much wire between the ESC and packs. This increased inductance stresses the ESC and reduces performance. The Y adapter is far too long, you can reduce wire length by several feet.

- You should never split a water cooling line, your current setup will not cool either the motor or the ESC optimally. You have another water pickup in the left sponson, use it to cool the motor and the other to cool the ESC. Too, rotate the motor cooling jacket so that the forward water inlet is straight up, then connect the water exit line to that nipple. The current setup is not filling the water jacket fully.

- Where is the CG with the setup in the picture? Boat performance will improve by moving it back to around 33% of the hull length (16”). An easy way to move it back is to turn the packs around and move them closer to the transom.

Obviously the boat will run without these changes, but it will be more reliable with them. Good luck!



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[Panther6834]

SMC makes great batteries...I own quite a few. However, they are all exclusively for my on-road & off-road vehicles, as they are "hardcase" packs. I'd be very leery about using them in a boat. When I first got into FE (which was only 6 months ago), I had several people "warn" me against using hardcase packs in a boat, all (highly) suggesting I use "soft packs". Initially, I didn't listen.

I went ahead, and used the hardcase packs in my SonicWake...and, I very quickly learned to understand why hardcase packs shouldn't be used. With the cells sealed inside a hard plastic case, this can cause the cells to heat up even more, thus leading then to temporarily 'expand', which caused the plastic casing to bulge. Additionally, when checking temperatures, the hardcase packs were a bit on the "hot" side. Sure, after the packs cooled down, the cells "deflated", and the cases returned to their normal shape...but, I (very quickly) stopped using hardcase packs in that boat (and ALL future boats), and started buying soft packs for the boats.

Six months after purchasing my SonicWake, I now have 7 boats, plus an H&M fiberglass hull to build an 8th. The soft packs have never bulged, nor have they ever gotten as hot as the hardcases did. My suggestion/recommendation would be to stop using the SMC hardcase packs, and get some soft packs asap. Even SMC, themselves, tell you to not use their batteries in boats (yes, I've spoken with them, on the phone, on this very subject). Other than that, great job on the conversion. Regarding the recommendations given by Fluid, I'm in agreement with all said, and would suggest you follow his recommendations.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[sdbird]

thanks for all the input guys. the lipos im using are for my xmaxx. only ones i had that were suitable until the 5s maxamps get here. the adapter to the esc will get shortened when i get the new lipos fitted and wired up.
i also have a transom mount water pickup coming in to fix the cooling. the underhull pickup on these hulls is useless barely a trickle comes out even if you dremel out the opening. i just bypassed it for now so i could run the boat. esc and motor running about 100? at wot for 5-6 min.air temp is 60? and water temp about 50?. i did a transom mount on my gasser bc it had the same issue.
any prop recommendations? running the stock zelos g 3 blade now. boat is 25lbs and using 1/4 flexshaft.

[Panther6834]

If you're "bypassing" the in-hull pickups, don't forget to seal them (I'm sure you already did). Otherwise, you've got a great "faucet" for filling the hull work water...lol

On second thought, don't bother sealing them...as long as you promise to film, and upload, it's first (and last) post-conversion voyage. I can just picture it, as it's racing across the water, slowly getting lower, and lower, and lower...kinda like a high-speed version of a submarine submerging.

Just kidding, of course...but, then again, such a video would be cool to watch.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[sdbird]

haha im more worried about the cork i used to plug the exhaust outlet on the back of the transom. After a bunch of high-speed laps I always cruise by slow so I can double-check to make sure that it's still in there

[Panther6834]

haha im more worried about the cork i used to plug the exhaust outlet on the back of the transom. After a bunch of high-speed laps I always cruise by slow so I can double-check to make sure that it's still in there

Have some Champagne glasses ready...just in case the cork goes "pop".


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[fweasel]

Pretty good hulls, I'm working on a conversion myself. Stripped mine to a bare hull and scrapped all of the stock internal bits.

IMG_20200726_155920.jpg

Jay hit all of the points I was going to bring up. I had no issues with the through hull water pickup when I ran the boat stock for a week this summer. I did, however, choose to use a dual pick-up rudder for my conversion because the water I'll be running this boat in its very rough and the hull will be out of the water a lot. The rudder was going to be a more consistent pickup source. RC Boat Bitz in Australia makes them.

Curious, what did you use to block off the holes in the canopy and on the rear deck?

[sdbird]

for now they are still open but i cut a piece of thick lexan that can be epoxied in if i decide to close them

[Ricoswave]

What flex shaft did you guys use for this conversion? Does the one from the electric zelos fit without issue?

[fweasel]

I had a custom 1/4" flex made with a shorter propshaft so that I could continue to use the stock strut setup and not worry about any binding when the strut trim angle was adjusted. I also chose to use a more flexible flex cable (Octura I think) to reduce friction through the existing stuffing tube bend.

[sdbird]

i used an 18 inch 1/4 cable and cut it down to length and used the stock strut. cant remember what brand it was had it laying around from a previous build