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Thread: ESC Help needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    NY
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    Default ESC Help needed

    Hi all I could use some help on my new TFL Zonda. It has SC: Seaking 120A ESC's and Motor: SSS 3674 2075KV brushless motors. I Set the throttle range with my transmitter Skyfly Noble.

    The ESC's didn't come with on/off switches so it makes it a pain in the butt to do the throttle range setup.

    Where I'm having trouble is the Starboard ECS, the led is flashing really fast and beeping when the batteries are plugged in and does not stop . The Port side does the cell count and it's fine. I squeeze the throttle and the port side motor spins up like it should. The Steering servos working fine also.

    I tried swapping the wires around on the starboard ESC to the motor but that didn't make any difference. Ideas???

    Edit: I also went through the Trouble shoot guide that came with the ESC's . It mentioned that one of the batteries could be low so I also tried swapping batteries from side to side it made no difference.
    Last edited by 1coopgt; 09-05-2020 at 08:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    AZ
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    8,009

    Default

    Did you disconnect the red wire from one ESC? What voltage are you running on each motor?



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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    NY
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    Default

    I would assume that the TFL would have done that. Your talking about where the 2 esc's splice together correct? I'm going to be running 6s each side. Thanks for replying Fluid.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
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    NC
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    Default

    I went to the same issue and at the end I bought an esc program card to fix the issue

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by peoples View Post
    I went to the same issue and at the end I bought an esc program card to fix the issue
    Not really sure how that would help. I used a program card to program both esc's before setting the throttle range. If you have more info on how that helped you please add the info. Thanks.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    IL
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    Plug starboard side esc directly in to throttle channel of receiver, bypassing the y harness used to splice both esc's. Calibrated the esc as you normally would, then reconnect to y harness and verify both esc's function properly at the same time/rates.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Plug starboard side esc directly in to throttle channel of receiver, bypassing the y harness used to splice both esc's. Calibrated the esc as you normally would, then reconnect to y harness and verify both esc's function properly at the same time/rates.
    Thanks for the advice . I'll give this a shot and see what happens.

  8. #8
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    NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Plug starboard side esc directly in to throttle channel of receiver, bypassing the y harness used to splice both esc's. Calibrated the esc as you normally would, then reconnect to y harness and verify both esc's function properly at the same time/rates.
    This worked great fweasel! Thank you. Can you tell me why it worked by chance. Part of the learning curve for me. On my Zelos Twin it worked when I calibrated the esc's to the throttle on the Futaba. I don't understand why it didn't work on the Zonda with the Skyfly. Is it the transmitters being different?

  9. #9
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    Feb 2019
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    NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    The process of calibrating a basic esc is simple, and most people understand it in a single motor setup. In a dual motor setup, there are electrical considerations that new guys often overlook. Most 6S and under ESC's have a BEC circuit in them. It allows your lipo to send power to the receiver through the esc. This powers the receiver and servo. Problem is, two ESC's can both send power to the receiver. The y harness used to splice the Esc's together typically has one red wire disconnected, so only one esc sends power to the receiver. When the esc with the attached red receiver wire gets turned on, so does the receiver, and everything works as expected. Problem arises when you try to calibrate the esc without the red wire. Since the first esc is not connected to a battery on purpose, the second esc cannot be calibrated because the receiver isn't getting power. By connecting the 2nd esc directly to the receiver, you bypass the cut red wire and the receiver powers up so calibration can take place.
    Great to know . Thanks!

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