Strut height has nothing to do with the resting water line. It is a planing hull so when traveling at speed it will lift itself out of the water. Put the hull on a flat table and a good starting point is that the bottom of the struts should be flat on the table too. When testing and tuning you may want to go up a little from there, but likely not down, so if you have a limited range of height adjustability make that as low as it will go.
I wouldn't fit the drain plug, IMO it is just another water entry point that can fail, and thus it increases the chance that you get water in your hull (and you want it dry), if it would be very useful to you, you have bigger problems elsewhere.
There is no problem mounting a servo upside down, I have never done it in a boat myself though, Personally generally mount them on their sides, with a single horn sticking up and a pushrod to connect it to the rudder. While I have used pull pull control surfaces in the tails of planes to keep the CoG forwards, I see no benefit in it for an inboard boat, again it adds an extra hole in the boat that is a potential water entry point. Almost everyone uses a single pushrod for their rudder linkage, pushrod bellows are a tried and tested way to waterproof a servo linkage. (I recommend Tenshock bellows as they are made of silicone and don't perish, whereas all the other bellows are rubber and get brittle over the years when exposed to the UV in sunlight and eventually crack up (if you have the room and access, mounting bellows internally is neater looking IMO, and largely gets over the UV problem)).
You are luck to get a manual even in German I have 2 H&M hulls and neither came with one, just a disc with a few pics of bare hulls and completed boats for reference.
Last edited by NativePaul; 09-06-2020 at 01:42 PM.
Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.
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